E BIKE MY1020GDA 60V 1000W YK43B 24-60 V Controller

[Miles]

shop master suggested getting new fixie wheel insead of buying all parts......
also he mentioned, that under so much torque fixie hub may unthread

Quite.

[darkangel]

ok guys under so much cost it is not worth converting this bicycle so like Miles said i am forced to quit this project without any further attempts

29ner mountain bike is just to big to convert

thank you all for suggestions and good luck with your coversions

[Miles]

Yikes! I hope you didn't read my "quite" as "quit"......

[darkangel]

no thats ok miles

[darkangel]

this is what i was told

them;
"you need 700cc rear wheel with 135mm quick release hub and brake disk mount holes, so you candrill holes on the cog and mount it on to disc brake mount. the quick release excel/shaft needs to be changed to longer shaft. cost for rear wheel $99, 3 cog set 16, 18, 22tooth $45, new slide on casete $35, the matching front wheel with disk brake $85"
me;
my budget is $100 i cant spend no more than $100, as i need to get new motor
them;
"well, thats your problem"

[darkangel]

i looked all over e bay and found wheels but there are no details about hub, checked links miles and others posted but no quick release

if you guys know someone who got it at resonable price let me know

[DATABASE00]

sorry to hear of all the issues your running into. its hard keeping it looking good while trying to save cash. Im in the middle of that still, but finally got a complete bike s now im trying to figure out batteries and stuff. still like a month away from actual riding thow lol.

[darkangel]

i have contacted other supplier to see if he can offer me wheel set for + - $100

the way my bike wheel set is setup, just doesn't work so by changing the wheels on it, the performance and equipment suitability will improve by 100%

database-why don't you run it with slas for couple months and see how it holds up, then make a decision

i still care about looks, i would rather quit the project then ride something that looks like from the junk yard, but that is just me i guess the way i am so don't you guys take it personally, every mans creation is his reflection. look what Miles built the damn thing lookes awesome

[rjoe]

this site has parts to build a double-freewheel wheel with an adaptor for large sprockets on the left side

http://www.evdeals.com/USPD%20Drive%20Parts.htm

I built mine for about $100 including hub, left-side freewheel and spokes

[darkangel]

hi thank you RJOE

I looked into it and the problem is price $50 for the hub then $35-40 for new spokes custom made not including shipping, that's as much as whole rear wheel would cost me, while all of it would be already setup on it and i wouldn't have to mess with anything.

so that's why i am looking into getting new rear 700cc wheel. I think that quick release wheels come with 135mm nut to nut hubs and disk brake mount on the side so i don't have to worry about stripping the threads.

the rear hub would have to be able to handle 300lbs of pure weight so that's why i think by bolting the sprocket on to disk brake mount would work better then screwing the cog on to the hub (if otherwise let me know guys, maybe i am just wrong, it wouldn't be the first time though )

also i need the front wheel with disk brake mount to = rear wheel

my budget is $100 for both disc brake wheels

[darkangel]

great mother of smurfs i found some wheel

[darkangel]

on idea to what i want to accomplish
here is the link for the cog
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VeloSolo-DISC-C ... #ht_6648wt

[darkangel]

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem ... cmd=VIDESC

new set of the wheels is on the way

[darkangel]

the new my1020b 60v is on the way

[Alan B]

Did you ever solve the gearing problem? If you don't get the motor spinning at the right RPM it will overheat. Match the voltage to the gearing, your voltage was too high on the first try.

[darkangel]

will use 4 sla batteries as 6 is to much

i have 11t sprocket from my old motor will use it for the new

direct drive or hub sprocket:

thin but not to thin tires for the new wheels,
computer 12v fan running of 1 sla battery will some how connect to motor, will use the old one to make the fan tupe profile, hell i may start selling those fan cooling profiles.

i have 3 sprockets got it from bike shop 15t 18t 22tooth

to begin with i will use the 15t sprocket and see how hot motor gets after 1 mile.

will see what happens, hope it works.

[darkangel]

curently waiting for all orders to come in, uh!!

cant wait even though i wont be able to start working on it all till this saturday

[darkangel]

got this also

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem ... 0401332143

[darkangel]

the wheels arrived and new motor arrived

dang wheels are so light compared to my old wheels, it's unlivable what i had on my bike, no wonder my knees were killing me

so now i have to get sprocket cassette, and new tires, will take it to bicycle shop tomorrow, probably will need some sort of spacer for in between hub and rear frame fork.

once all done will post some pictures

[coldfusion594]

about the motor that is alot of amps needed. And weight isnt that pretty looks like my treadmill motors. But seems really strong.
4 HP 24 VDC ELECTRIC MOTOR
45 AMPS NO LOAD
140 AMPS FULL LOAD
8000 RPM FULL LOAD
32 INCH POUND OF TORQUE
¾” DIAM. X 1 ¾” SHAFT WITH KEYWAY
MOTOR DIMENSION 4” DIAM. X 7 ¾”

SHPG 24 LB (ESTIMATED)


Also lookup flip flop rear hibs.

it makes it so the back only has one gear on both sides. one side you always have to peddle other side you can coast, you could put the coasting side for you and the motor side for the motor.

So long story short, you can't just put a freewheel on both sides? hmmm
if so...
Can you choose which side to put the freewheel on?

I'm liking the idea though! would something like this be beefy enough to handle the power coming from the motor?
sorry I did not want to open up a whole new thread

[darkangel]

1. no
2. yes

3. no, it wont be strong to handle the torque comming from the motor considering the weight of the bike, your weight, battery weight, wind, terain

ok so, here is the situation

i have been looking into doing same thing you have shown on the picture and did some research, asked people who new and so on

finaly after all, i went to bike shop here in scaumburg preformance bicycles and spoke to guy who converted bicycles to both electric and gass

he told me
"....."
do not get freewheel hub get cassette hub with disc brake

1. your motor will strip the threads on the freewheel hub, freewheel is nothing but problems after problems especialy if setup is done with after market parts, you are not riding BMX
2. threaded hubs are not strong and will not last you long time as you are running heavy, here look at this one its destroyed customer wouldn't listen to me and look
3. the cassette hub is strong and cheep worth money spent even if it gets destroyed i will sell you one for $15, i have never had customer come back complaining
4. mount cog or sprocket on to disk brake mount and tighten the mount with steel bend this will last you long time, all my gass bike customers have it and so far no problems
5. if you want freewheel on motor side install it directly on the motor or make the gear box for it

then he gave me price for new wheels, tires, tire tubes, 3 cogs, and i was like indirectly f you man cost is to high

so now i dont know if my new setup will actualy work with my heavy bike but will see, i will have the whole setup done by sunday probably so just wait and see if i succeeeeed follow my built instructions and you will be safe

[amberwolf]

If you look thru my CrazyBike2 stuff in my Electricle Blog and early posts in the CB2 thread, you'll see that I ran chain drive at high torque levels thru a regular freewheel-thread-on type hub without problems on the hub itself. I stripped out some of the smaller sprocket teeth, and I bent up a lot of front chainrings and broke some chains, even bent an axle and crushed a rim with the torque of a chain derailment, but I never damaged the hub itself.

Keep in mnd this is a 150lb bike with the same weight in rider, AND I can carry cargo on it (at the rear wheel) of 80-200lbs.

I break spokes and rims, and bend axles, but not hubs, and I don't strip the threads, either.

If he's having problems stripping the threads, he's probably using cheap aluminum threaded hubs, with steel freewheels that dont' have perfectly-matching threads (meaning the threads cut into one don't fully seat into and mesh with the threads in the other, leaving a gap that allows "play" or sliding over the top of each other, like a loose-fitting bolt/nut combo--that WILL let threads strip).

FWIW, it's not all that uncommon on various hubmotors, especially older ones, to strip the threads on the disc brake mounts (before they started using ISO bolt holes on the motors themselves), and sometimes on the freewheel threads, too. But on regular bike hubs, even crappy ones, I haven't managed it yet.

[darkangel]

amber is correct if you can get the good steel hub and lace the new spokes you should be kin my case the cost plays main rolle

[darkangel]

IMAG0200.jpg

[amberwolf]

amber is correct if you can get the good steel hub and lace the new spokes you should be kin my case the cost plays main rolle

Just about everything I used for those wheels on CrazyBIke2 was recycled stuff off old junk bikes. Most of the wheels started life on the bike as complete wheels off the other bikes, but as I broke more of the spokes and rims with weight/potholes/etc, I had to rebuild them with parts from other wheels that had less damage (until eventually I broke everything *except* the hubs on most of them). Some were steel, some were aluminum, but all had no problems with the torque levels I put thru the threads/freewheel. IIRC I even broke one freewheel (jammed pawls), but it didn't do anything to the threads on the hub.

You'd have to go back thru the blog posts about CB2's "adventures" for all the details, though, as I don't directly recall most of it anymore.