E BIKE MY1020GDA 60V 1000W YK43B 24-60 V Controller

[darkangel]

i was just told by some guy that i need the run capacitor,

the engine keeps shuting down, goes and shuts then throtle again it goes then it shuts i just cant figure why

do you guys know why?????

[darkangel]

now when i lift the back wheel and throtle up engine works fine, when i sit on it it goes and shuts off. i am confused


why motor or controller is cutting out under load guys???

[amberwolf]

Motor should never smoke; that usually means there is FAR too much current thru it and is burning the windings and/or brushes. This usually happens from wrong gearing, as discussed in the first responses to your thread.

If it will spin without a load on it, but not with a load, then these are the typical reasons. Some may not apply to your system:
--controller's current limit (if any) is being hit so hard it shuts down
--controller's LVC is triggering due to battery voltage sag under the higher current load
--BMS's current limit (if any) is being hit so hard it shuts down
--BMS's LVC is triggering due to battery voltage sag under the higher current load
--Brushed motor is damaged from overheating so that commutator segments are burned/warped or brushholders/brushes are melted/misaligned and are unable to supply enough current to start it going under load
--Brushed motor is damaged from overheating so that windings are shorted out

Possibly other things but that's my 30-second list.

Most likely the motor is already toast, but you'd have to troubleshoot it just like before to find out.


A "run capacitor" is only for AC induction motors, and is not used for DC brushed motors. Same for "start capacitors".

[darkangel]

i got 4 bateries on it so thats 48v motor is 60v
11t and 16t sprocket bike is 45lbs less on weight so total of 220 lbs versus
300+ i had
didnt ride it with full throtle but half when it started smoking

the motor will run under load for couple of seconds before it shuts, then throtle again it runs and shuts

remember i had 44 t sprocket when same thing happened, now i have 16t

so i cant see anything other then controller being just underdeveloped for what it is ment to run correct?

[darkangel]

my1020b motor is ok but to figure out perfect gearing for it is bit hard

[amberwolf]

i got 4 bateries on it so thats 48v motor is 60v
11t and 16t sprocket bike is 45lbs less on weight so total of 220 lbs versus
300+ i had
didnt ride it with full throtle but half when it started smoking

the motor will run under load for couple of seconds before it shuts, then throtle again it runs and shuts

remember i had 44 t sprocket when same thing happened, now i have 16t

so i cant see anything other then controller being just underdeveloped for what it is ment to run correct?

AFAICT, you've made the problem of gearing MUCH worse, rather than better. If I didnt' miss anything in my going back now, looking at your thread, I don't think you understood my posts describing and showing the math for the gearing and wheel speed vs motor RPM. If I did miss something, and you understood and have compensated for the gearing change, I apologize.

But it looks to me like you needed to put a *larger* sprocket on the wheel, not a smaller one. Smaller will make the wheel go faster, placing a much greater load on the motor, forcing the motor to turn even slower than ti did before, when it smoked becuase the gearing was insufficient.

If the new motor's RPM at the specified voltage is lower than the first one, down to the RPM the first motor was actually running at, then you coudl probably have gone with the original sprocket to make it work. But if the new motor's RPM at the specified voltage is the same, or higher, you'd need a larger sprocket to do the work, just like before. As I described before, you have to figure out the motor's RPM at the voltage you're going to feed it, and then provide gearing that lets it run somewhere up near that when you're at the speed you want to be riding at.

I'm sorry that I have been unable to read all of hte posts in your thread each time I have had a moment to drop in, or I might have seen where you were planning an even smaller sprocket and tried to steer you back to a much larger one as I tried to point out in my first post on that subject, where I showed you the path of math to see what hte motor RPM was.

[darkangel]

in conclusion

3000 rpm
under load 900rpm
900rpm x 60min x 48T/11T x 29" wheels x 3.14 / 12" x 5280'=

[amberwolf]

in conclusion

3000 rpm
under load 900rpm

That's one problem right there: 900RPM loaded is far too low if the 3000RPM is unloaded under the same conditions. Usually loaded RPM is about 80% of unloaded RPM, depending on the system. The further you get away from the unloaded RPM, the higher your currents will be, because the back-EMF (BEMF) of the motor will be so much lower, and the motor will burn up if it is kept at that loading unless you are cooling it enough to take away all the waste heat being produced. (this would take some major cooling).

I dunno about any of the rest of the math below; it doesn't sound right and is too confusing for me to follow. You are also completely leaving out how much power it takes to overcome wind resistance at those speeds, and how much power is going to be used and how much wasted as heat, etc. Without knowing those things, you won't know what motor, battery, or controller you can use so they won't just burn up.

900rpm x 60min x 48T/11T x 29" wheels x 3.14 / 12" x 5280' = 94mph - 38mph wind and additional cause of resistance = 56mph safe speed
94mph /250lbs estimated weight = .376 * 29" wheels =11mph
38mph + 11 mph = 49mp - 94mph = - 45 or 45mph estimated speed total

26" wheels you need 11t -44t or 48t is good
27" wheels you will need 12t - 52t
700c wheels you will need 11t -48t

[darkangel]

after further setup

controller 36v

11t - 44t sprocket

the motor came to life i was riding it today for 5++ hours motor was wormish and outside was like 90 with wind, hell its fn chicago always windy here

speed is like 10 mph, f.... it works at least, the chain is also loose and loud i have to fix it

so now i am to lazy to test it with 48t but thats next

after that will use 48 v controller and see what happens

i aaaaaammm haaaapppppy yes

[darkangel]

3000rpm / 60v = 50 rpm per V
50rpm per V × 36v controller = 1800rpm

250w heat loss wiring conections loss

1800rpm ÷ 2 = 900 rpm * 60 * 48 ÷ 11 * 33 wheel * 3.14 ÷ 12 * 52860ft= 38.45mph

curently
1800rpm ÷ 2 = 900 rpm * 60 * 44 ÷ 11 * 33 wheel * 3.14 ÷ 12 * 52860ft= or wait maybe i should simplify

900rpm * 60 = 54,000
44 / 11 = 4
33 - 3.14 = 103.62
12 * 52860 = 634, 320

54,000 * 4 = 216,000
103.62 / 634, 320 = 0.0001633

216,000 * 0.0001633 = 35.27MPH without resistance and battery drain

after further testin on full 36 v battery pack the controller is feeding only 30v with full throttle

so calculation will change to
50rpm * 30v = 1500 w ÷ 2 = 750w × 60 = 45000
45000 × 4 = 180,000 × 0.0001633 = 29.39mph

watts ÷ current = volts lets test
250w ÷ 30amp = 8.5 v

30v - 8.5v = 21.5v × 50rpm = 1075 w ÷ 2 = 537.5 w × 60 =32250
32250 × 4 = 129,000 × 0.0001633 = 21mph not including terain