E BIKE MY1020GDA 60V 1000W YK43B 24-60 V Controller

[DISH]

The motor you mentioned in your notes that sells for $115 has a no load RPM of 550 RPM. I have NO EXPERIENCE with this motor. I have NOT had very good experience with planetary geared motors and tend to shy away from them at least for the non standard systems I have been working with. Both of the geared motors have a fan in them. TNC Scooters makes more profit on the planetary geared motor and tend to make it look more attractive. I wouldn't use that motor unless I really needed the higher 550 RPM shaft speed. In your case, since you are trying to drive the rear wheel directly from the motor, the higher shaft speed may be more appropriate than the slower speed geared motor.

And forget the 56 tooth gear on the wheel. That will NEVER WORK unless you intend to go VERY slowly. I think you missed something. Go back and re-read my previous post. The chain on my system runs from the motor to the CRANKS not the rear wheel !!!

REPEAT: I have the motor driving the CRANKS NOT the rear wheel. The cranks (in my case) turn at 100+ RPM as that is my typical cadence. I've been told that I am a semi-pro bike rider (whatever that means) and tend to have a bit higher cadence than a non pro rider. My typical power output at that cadence is the 600 to 750 watt area. It is not uncommon for me to stretch or break chains or bend bicycle frames using human power only (NO MOTOR) during a sprint.

On the system I was talking about in the previous post I mounted a second chain wheel up front on the opposite side of where the normal bicycle chain is and drove that gear with the motor. The motor had a 16 tooth gear on it and the secondary crank gear is 48 teeth for a gear reduction of 3 to 1. When the motor is running wide open throttle at 325 RPM that turns the cranks at ~108 RPM. Since the motor is now turning the cranks that means the motor can take advantage of the regular bicycle gearing and is not locked into the single gear system like you are trying to do.

Although I have NO EXPERIENCE with the 550 RPM motor you have chosen to use I offer the following assuming you intend to drive the rear wheel directly and NOT THROUGH THE CRANKS as I was doing:

I have no idea what top speed you are shooting for. I'll assume 25 MPH. A 700c wheel will be doing ~320 RPM at this speed.

Since the motor has a no load speed of 550 RPM I will assume 450 RPM under load although something tells me this motor may run closer to 400 RPM under full load....

The motor comes with a 10 tooth gear. Since I have NO EXPERIENCE with the motor I'm not sure, but it looks to me that this motor also takes the wider chain (NOT STANDARD BICYCLE CHAIN). Assuming you are prepared to deal with the wider chain you will need a gear reduction of (450 rpm motor speed /320 rpm wheel speed) or 1.406. This suggests a 14 tooth gear on the rear wheel (standard small rear wheel gear !!!) so we end up with the following:

10 tooth gear on motor turning at 450 RPM

14 tooth gear on rear wheel for gear reduction of 1.4. (10 / 14 = 1.4)

450 RPM / 1.4 = 321 RPM or 25 MPH using a 700C wheel.

Although math is not my forte, I presented the above to give you some idea of how to calculate gear ratios and figure out what size gear you need to get the top speed that you want while permitting the motor to spin at a speed that will NOT burn it up....

[darkangel]

great dish, i am glad to have you help me man, cause i got no clue about gearing, i would be just waisting money.

thank you so much buddy

new notes

- calculate and find small sprocket to fit on to the back wheel, also needs 9 holes for hub addapter mount http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem ... 1007305740

[darkangel]

guys

i just got response from Chris with TNC, he asked me if i can give him weight of the bike, me, batteries and terrain

i replied

bike 45lbs
me 175lbs
battery 9 lbs sla
their bicycle motor sprocket 11 teeth
chain #415 (this chain is good with any sprocket that has 1/2" teeth diameter)
http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route= ... uct_id=149
terrain; long hills but not steep

now i just have to wait and see what Chris can offer, keeping my fingers crossed

[darkangel]

Hi guys,

here is the gear ratio calculator

http://jimsitton.net/ratiocalc/

and one more here

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showpost.ph ... stcount=29

hopefully this helps someone

[darkangel]

[darkangel]

TNC advised my chain was to tight and that's why motor probably over heated and died. case closed
--------------------------------------------- motors that you guys mentioned tnc don't recommend for my bike , those motors are more like for trikes and ATVs. go figure A

i am kind of looking to get MY1020-B GDA 60V again but not sure what is more important

so question for you guys

when it comes to hills what is more important on motor;
voltage, w or rpm?
and
when it comes to flat land

speed is up to sprocket ratio used on the hub

Area where i live in Addison Illinois got some hills not steep but long and like 45deg, some flats

is there a good engine out there that will not overheat, i will try to get hub sprocket 15t-16t

[darkangel]

currently looking into http://www.gokartgalaxy.com/sprocket_blanks.htm hub sprockets

does anyone know sprocket # which will fit chain #415 as it seams like they do not have one for this chain

update; checked given link and their min T sprocket is 17 T, by calculation i need to have at least 15 T minimum 16 T max

UPDATE; IMPOSSIBLE 15T OR 17T ONLY 21T WOULD FIT

[Miles]

#41 is the same pitch but the sprocket is likely to be too thick for #415.

How are you going to mount it?
https://www.affordablegokarts.com/mm5/m ... BK%20PARTS

[darkangel]

Thank you Miles, originally i was planning to modify my 44t sprocket and mount it on to http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem ... 1007305740

clam shell sprocket adaptor.JPG

here is something from me for all of you with glorious cnc routers. g code and dxf file for solid works or whichever

http://idleamusements.com/Software/sprocketeer2.htm

[darkangel]

Does anyone have dimensions for motorized bicycle 44T sprocket 9 bolt holes & center hole

this is what i got please correct me if i am wrong

SPROCKET.gif

[darkangel]

here is the sprocket layout software if you wish to make your own sprockets / modify the old one

http://fleettrikes.com/giles%20puckett% ... ulator.htm

[darkangel]

after some calculations the closest tooth count with clam shell sprocket adapter that has 1/4" bolt holes is 21 tooth on safe side

which will give me
driver gear sprocket 11t
driven gear sprocket 21t (need one made)
wheel size 29"
my1020-b 60v 1000w 3000 rpm under load 950 rpm
total speed 43mph and my goal is 35 mph, so kind of perfect

can anyone make the sprocket?

[DATABASE00]

loving the thread I was going to go with the 1000 watt my1020 from ebay but landed up cheaping out and buying treadmill motors. but thanks for your thread, its giving me alot to think about before my build..
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=39414

[darkangel]

curently building b box
will use bondo

[darkangel]

IMAG0179.jpg

[darkangel]

IMAG0180.jpg

[darkangel]

Does anyone know if i can bondo directly over the steel patch?

i am not sure if the bondo would stick to it

[darkangel]

guys the sprocket from http://www.staton-inc.com/store/product ... 85-47.html strong enough for my back wheel, it seams so tiny and thin

i would get this one and drill mounting holes on it

it would give me 41mph which is ok

[darkangel]

OK just purchased the 20t and 22t from staton-inc.com for #415 chain, will be doing some tweaking to it. these sprockets are so cheap it's amazing, i just hope that i can drill some holes to it without any issues

[darkangel]

yup brain storming again

[darkangel]

ok guys now that i have reduced my back wheel sprocket to 22t i am kind of wondering maybe i should go with MY1020Z3 36 Volt, 600 Watt, 3300 RPM Non-Gear Reduced, 21.3 Amp, permanent-magnet motor, but again my gut filling is telling me to just use same motor MY1020-B 60 Volt, 1000 Watt, 3000 RPM, 19.4 Amp, permanent-magnet motor and risk burning it again

motor needs to be able to handle hills daily

MY1020-B 60 Volt, 1000 Watt, 3000 RPM, 19.4 Amp - load speed 950rpm
MY1020Z3 36 Volt, 600 Watt, 3300 RPM Non-Gear Reduced, 21.3 Amp - load speed 1020rpm

i just don't know what to do, through my research here i didn't see anyone complaining about MY1020Z3 smoking or burning up as much MY1020 60 and 48 Volt

motor sprocket 11t
hub sprocket 22t
direct drive

[DATABASE00]

ok Im not sure if this will helpf but look on craigslist for free treadmill. Ive gotten 2 already. Those are dc motors, but they can handle more power then you can get to them. I have 2 motors already that I am using but still deciding on my motor. I have one which is a 90volt motor at 4,000 rpm and a 130v at 6,000rpm. But they can handle well over 2,000 watts, and they turn pretty good just off a 12volt battery. But you cant beat free. Only issue I SEE IS THAT YOU ALREADY HAVE YOUR BIKE SETUP FOR the other motor. Treadmill motors tend to weigh about 12-18lbs. But I have not hooked up motor to bike still debating on the setup I want.

[darkangel]

hi DATABASE00,

no doubt that treadmill motors are great, but not for bicycle conversion, they are mostly used with trikes.

i did thought about it but to mount it on to bicycle it would be a great challenge, and the end result would be ugly e-bike. you would have to both bolt and weld support for it on to the bike unless you have steel bike then you can just bolt it. also it requires longer chain setup which is not very good idea for e-bike conversion, your chain needs to be closest to hub sprocket or driven sprocket as possible.

the e-bike motor needs to be light and efficient, think battery weight. less weight on the bike more batteries you can add on it. also e-bike needs to look nice, not like some i have seen with treadmill motors (junk yard class i'd say) i wouldn't sit on it even if someone paid me .

my bike if i ever complete it, looks good as it is, currently i'm building the mid frame battery box which i will be able to remove and bring it in with me for charging, kind of convenient.

always think of this when you are make something; creation is mirror

[DATABASE00]

are you still able to peddle pretty good with those batteries there?

how does your motor deal with hills?

[darkangel]

i killed the motor at first try, numb nuts had chain to tight,
there were so many bad comments about my1020 48v - 60v motors overheating if you go over hills that now i can not decide which motor to choose from.

when i tested pedaling was not a problem even with mid frame battery setup 4 battery total 7" wide side to side, easy as it can be. currently i am just working on cosmetics till i decide which motor to pick.

also if the pedals become to close once i add 2 more beckup batteries i will just buy little bit wider pedal cranks, current measurement in b/w pedals is 6" and with new pedals i can go up to 9" in width. there is all kinds of crap on e-bay for bicycles it's unbelievable, i love e-bay so much i'm thinking of naming my first kid after it