E BIKE MY1020GDA 60V 1000W YK43B 24-60 V Controller

[darkangel]

i just did research on these etak motors and no one is recommending to run these motors dry it has to be cooled at all times. kind of like my1020 motors

only thing i like about etak they give you connection for cooling while my1020 got no options

did you try to go with SLA12 12h rhino batteries, 9lbs, i got some for my bike, they are strong and powerful batteries. i don't care what people say, i have tried these batteries on my little Honda civic and let me tell you they are strong and most importantly they are very low price like $25 - $30

and also lets say you have 60v motor you need to run only 4 12v 12h slas and get full power and hours while those little once lipo or whatever everyone is talking about if you have 60v you have to have 60v worth of battery and also those batteries tend to explode kind of dramatic A.

[DATABASE00]

I like those batteries I might have to use them, currently for testing I have 4

of these but are just a little large and bulky but so close, well see what I decide on. I might just use them

[darkangel]

o' yeah thats' ok, i got rhino 12v 12h 3"x3"x5" long 6 total 9lbs each, i am very satisfied

guys who run their e-bikes off road love those batteries, just because they are durable, also people in Africa use them as source for their lightning systems, they plug them in directly on to solar panels with out any kind of relay or voltage controller.

[darkangel]

does anyone know if this motor would be good for my application?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... oduct=5141

TR 80-85-B 170Kv Brushless Outrunner.jpg

[DATABASE00]

i saw those motor and saw that they were 48v motors but they can handle alot of amps. in order to get power you need alot of batteries, But Im not sure how the handle. look good size thow.

[darkangel]

well, I've sent e-mail to hobby king support center specifying my bike setup details including the controller i have, hopefully they will reply with some good news, otherwise i have no choice but to get stinky MY1020 60v motor again and risk burning it again.

i have already 6 12v 12h batteries, 4 already setup to run MY1020 60v and 2 chilling out till needed

man that outrunner motor is compact and cheep like $86 vs MY $115 on e-bay,

the main thing about outrunner that i found out through 5 hours of research is that when it crapes out it is easy to rewire with 14g wires 17 turns, bearings are easy to remove and so on

the only problem my bike is 29nr

[darkangel]

ok i just found out from reading posts here that this motor TR 80-85-B 170Kv Brushless Outrunner can be used only with gears, can't be connected directly on to hub driven sprocket.

kind of bummer, a

[DATABASE00]

if you do go with that motor again I would probly recomend blower fan or something to help cool it, or possibly lower your volatage and use the other battery for accessories or for a turbo button setup.

[darkangel]

say if i get it a, i would spend at least $100 on gear system design & development (extra sprockets, aluminum, shaft, freewheel, new motor mount design and development, i love the idea but damn money is the issue.

[DATABASE00]

yeah I know Im building this, a sandrail and still needing to save up for a damn ring for the girl. LOL Atleast the truck is paid off.

[darkangel]

there is sooooo many posts on here about these motors that after checking all of them out for last 8 hours and thinking about it, i ended up just getting more confused

i would realy like to buy some sort of turnigy motor maybe inliner, but i just dont have any idea if it will work with my direct drive setup and equipment

is there anyone experianced with turnigy motors that can give some sort of advice what to buy,

please guys

[amberwolf]

If you want to use a small high speed motor, you're going to need to gear it down a LOT to be able to drive a load at lower speeds for startup. Those things are all designed to run at hgih speed driving a propeller, whihc is not much of a load at startup's lower speeds.


The gearing issue vs what the motor is designed to run at, at a particular voltage, is going to be something to deal with no matter what motor you get, if it is not already designed to run at the speeds of your bike wheel at the power levels necessary.

[darkangel]

thank you amber man, that explains it

so i'll just forget about it is just not possible without having some kind of gear box made

i'll probably go again with same MY motor, use it with chain little bit loosen and from time to time concentrate on making some sort of gear box for it so motor is not pushed or stressed to the limit under work load.

[darkangel]

current re-setup of equipment

- MY1020-B GDA 60V 1000W electric motor TNC SCOOTERS
- YK43B 24-60 V Controller with throttle TNC SCOOTERS
- rhino 12v 12ah SLA battery * 4 pcs total 48v serial connection 9lbs each
- 40amp fuse (connected in b/w battery and controller)
- hub 22t sprocket
- Sprocket Adapter (Clams Shell Small- CSS)
- Bicycle MY1020-B sprockets 11t TNC SCOOTERS
- #415 chain
- 5" x 3" x 6" 10GA Angle Bracket
- 16g wires black & white, Walmart kind

once all installed will post video of it running

future developments
- the bike electronics control board/box
- the gear box
- the fan motor cooling system
- custom 15t freewheel adapter for my1020-b shaft

[darkangel]

amberwolf

you seam to know much about these to e-bike conversions, now my question is

how do i test YK43B 24-60 V Controller, without engine to see if it works

i have done a lot of research on here and i just cant find anything that clearly explains how to boom boom boom step by step.

[darkangel]

should i just take volt meter and put black on black and red on red while controller is connected to battery and mess with throttler and see if it explodes or give me some kind of read out or whatever.

wouldn't you think that my old ass should know already about this stuff, a

[darkangel]

hi guys

check this motor out

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-HP-24V-DC-VEH ... 35bb5d4cbb

[amberwolf]

how do i test YK43B 24-60 V Controller, without engine to see if it works

i have done a lot of research on here and i just cant find anything that clearly explains how to boom boom boom step by step.

That's probably because it is different with each controller and each problem.


With brushed controllers, then they will output pulses of full-pack-voltage, with longer pulses for more throttle, and shorter ones for less throttle. A lower average voltage will result from the latter, and higher average from the former. Since a digital multimeter often samples at a rate that ends up showing not the average voltage but rather a fluctuating voltage, you could put a regular wall-powered incandescent light bulb on the output, and it will light up less for lower throttle, and more for higher. It won't light very brightly even at full throttle, because there sin't enough voltage total to do that, but it will still show you if the controller is doing anything at all.

You can also use the multimeter to try to read the voltage across the bulb, if you like. An analog meter would be easier to read in these situations.

[darkangel]

cool , thank you amber will try it and see what happens

[darkangel]

ok i got small sprocket on the bike and it is ugly, forget it

now i am brain storming again,

is there some kind of hub for bicycles with threads on both sides?

i would take of my spokes and sprocket set and re-install it, and on the other threaded side i would install freewheel.

is there such a hub, i don't even know if such a thing exist, what do you guys think?

let me know

[Scoot440]

Do a search for flip-flop hubs. They are commonly used on BMX bikes and fixies, and they may be the solution to your problem. I have built two ebikes using flip-flop hubs and have really liked them. You can also buy a replacement rear wheel for the Currie Ezip line that comes with freewheel sprockets on both sides.

[darkangel]

thank you scoot 440, that is great

the flip-flop hub sweeet, i have 29" wheels so Currie Ezip wheel wont fit

would you by any chance have a link for some kind of distributor that has these hubs and freewheels,

[DATABASE00]

IM FIGHTING SAME BATTLE i WAS ACTUALLY DEBATING ON USING A LARGE SPROCKET WHERE MY BACK DISC ROTER BRAKE ATTACHES TO WHEEL. NOT THE PRETTIEST BUT WANTING TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS MOVING AND GOOD SPEEDS BEFORE WASTING A BUNCH OF TIME ON THINGS THAT WONT WORK TOGETHER. Sorry for caps

[darkangel]

ok i just looked and found this, but it cost a lot. do you guys know anything cheaper then this?
this setup is actually what i was looking for and it looks awesome, kind of solution to my pain, a
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/product ... 863-0.html

flip-flop i think.jpg

[darkangel]

you are correct database00

i am learning everything here hard way, i got small 22t sprocket, installed it on to my hub mount and all looked perfect. then i got sprocket to wobble big time, it just doesn't work any way i try to adjust it, i have no idea why as big sprocket fits perfectly.

so i figured before i give up and discontinue this project i should just try and get some sort of hub that has threads on both sides, install my existing hub sprocket set on to one side and freewheel on to the other side.

but again before i go and spend money i would like to confirm with you guys what would be the best solution to get job done, instead of doing everything on my own and get what i get.

my father always asked me, and this was like in 60s "son, you know why man is smarter then a woman" why? "because he got two heads" now i know what he meant