My custom mount Cyclone! :D [video]

Memran

10 W
Joined
Apr 27, 2010
Messages
78
I've recently thrown together a "960W" cyclone kit.

Behold the mess!

2012-04-07%2013.18.54%20%28Small%29.jpg

2012-04-07%2017.15.12%20%28Small%29.jpg

2012-06-17%2018.47.44%20%28Small%29.jpg

2012-06-17%2018.48.46%20%28Small%29.jpg

2012-06-17%2018.49.51%20%28Small%29.jpg


Here is a video of it running on some flat lead-acid batteries, upside down. The very first test!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TonScdbY0hM

I really don't understand why this is Supposedly 960W, since 36v * 35A = 1260W. Maybe the 35A sticker on the controller is peak? Don't know.
The wiring and battery mounting needs some tidying, and I must get a battery monitor before I can properly test it, but it is alive! :D

I am only running 10S lipo initially, and only 8Ah, so I have limited range, but I can add more cells later on. This bike is not for travelling over any real distance, it is meant for slower technical trails where more low speed torque is required. I will probably have to tweak the gearing a bit to make best use of the motor.

Such a shame this thing is so noisy! :(
 
a really really interesting mounting solution .
compliments.
Is possible to see some detail's photos to understand how have you made this support?
ty
 
I don't have more photos of the mount, and it is too dark outside to take some today, but I will get some more pics soon. :)

In the meantime, here is a drawing of the 4-parts of the motor mounting.

mount_design.png


It is perhaps overkill, but I made use of the materials I had to hand at the time. 10mm 6061 T6 aluminium, which I milled to shape, drilled, tapped and slotted.

The two side plates are secured to the frame by the bottom bracket cups. The middle is bolted to the sides by 12 countersunk M4 bolts. This part has some slots cut in it, though which the adjustable motor rail is bolted. This allows sideways adjustment to get a good chain-line between motor and chain ring.

The motor rail also has some slots which allow the motor to be positioned forwards or backwards, to tension the chain.

The mount for the controller is just some 2mm aluminium sheet cut by hand to clamp onto the frame at one end, and the other is bolted using one of the frame's "crud catcher" bosses.

I plan to refine the controller and battery mount to be attached to the main motor mount (somehow) so that it is all one unit.

Hopefully this makes sense! :D
 
So i was aprehensive to bother opening your thread with a title like 'messy'. glad it was tongue-in-cheek. Nice mount! 'CNC' and 'messy' never belong in the same sentence :mrgreen:
 
glad you changed the title as it is a nice little build, it cant be that noisy? compared to a motorbike anyways, looking forward to seeing some video of it running. :D
 
I've been out for a short test ride today. It was a little bit windy and cold, but not too bad.

Low speed torque seems good, and on some grassy slopes the rear wheel will lose traction before the motor stalls. It has taken me up a long, off-road, rocky path which I estimate is 30% grade. :D

Without a speedometer I can't be sure but when I shift into top gear it feels like about 23mph. This is more than enough for what I will use this bike for! :D

Here's a little video of some low-speed testing: (May need to turn volume down, because of wind noise...)
[youtube]KkQIi1FO0DI[/youtube]
Big thanks to the random guy who agreed to shoot the video clip. :)

One thing of concern is the sparking that occurs when I connect the batteries. Any ideas how to stop it?

The pedal cadence is stupid. :( At full throttle, I'd need to pedal at about 112rpm! (based on 3300 rpm motor @ 37v)
My gear ratios are as follows:
14T motor > 44T chainring, 32T chainring > 12T-32T rear cassette.
I need to use a larger chainwheel, but it already looks stupid-big. :(
 
superb! yes the sparking when you plug the battery leads in is the capacitors in the controller charging, you can fit a pre charge resistor or just live with it and replace the connectors when they wear out, thats what I do, you can put come vaseline in the contacts that will help reduce the arching and wear.
 
Aside from the gearing / noise / sparky connectors, I need a better charging system. Having to disconnect the packs and charge one at a time is laborious - and I only have two batteries right now! I guess I can parallel charge the 2 packs, or buy a 10S charger, but it all seems messy.

What should I use to monitor the battery state to prevent the cells from dropping too low during a ride? Can I safely rely on the Cyclone throttle's LEDs? I don't want any 'splosions between my knees!
 
for my suggest, to know the lipos cells are not going a low voltage , you must have buy the cells LVC alarm. i bought from Ebay. so when the cells reach low volts, it will sound a loud alarm.

AS for the Loud spark Noise, you need a two way switch, One " ON " goes to a 10watts 110ohm resister... a little current goes to the caps.. and then You ON the second switch is a main current goes the the controller,. hence you will not hear nothing !!

kentlim
 
Well it is fun to ride, and the torque gets me up some pretty steep off road trails ... but ... the noise! Everyone nearby knows it has a motor on it. The lack of stealth is a real downer for me.

Also I just can't pedal with the motor. I need to alter the gearing somehow, without using a bigger chainring, or run a lower voltage (don't want to run lower volts!).
 
[youtube]Ab2r9Q33be8[/youtube]

A little uphill test. Quite difficult to keep the front wheel on the ground! :D
 
Another hill climb test! :D

2012-09-01%2011.44.55%20%28Small%29.jpg


This hill is VERY steep! Its difficult to tell from the picture, but given than the road down there is 10% grade, you can get an idea for just how steep the path is! The Cyclone motor got me to the top with no pedalling, and wasn't too hot to the touch either! :D
 
Back
Top