The Castle Creations ESCs have data logging, so the various kits have had their personalities recorded. An ESC was designed to run a motor at a fairly constant RPM, lots of airflow, and the RC lanes are fairly light so they accelerate quickly. A motor shell drive needs about a 100-amp capability (that means it has around 130A peak survivabilty)
On an E-Bike, they bog down a little, and they don't have the airflow because we run them sideways and usually behind the body of the rider. On an RC plane they are lengthwise and out at the nose. When they bog down two bad things happen. The ESC sends more amps to try and get the motor up to speed, and since it takes a long time for a bike to finally get up to speed, its sending high amps for much longer than it was designed to take
. Amps = heat.
The other bad thing is when its struggling to get up to speed on an E-Bike (normally RC planes accelerate very fast) the amp-flow is being chopped and its kind of "springy"? leading to voltage spikes (I'm certain I'm explaining this wrong). Adding one or two capacitors helps.
A capacitor has two bare wire leads coming out of it, one will be marked as positive, and the other negative. Simply solder the leads to the red/black inputs to the ESC, somewhat near the ESC body. It acts as a voltage sponge and smooths out the pulses. Heres a pic of how Castle adds 4 extra caps to their RC helicopter ESCs. (also, skim the pics in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=30&t=22194