Cyclone controller died

I have a Cyclone 2400w big motor kit, running 12S3P LiPos.

Yesterday I rode my bike to work and then at lunch, without any issue, charging my batteries after each ride.

After work I plugged in my batteries and my bike wouldn't turn on, no lights on my throttle.
I checked all connections, I even took the throttle apart to check the switch was OK.

I had to get a lift home and came back for my bike with my car and took it home.

I've checked the resistance between the B+ and phase A, B and C and got no resistance, so it seems my controller is dead.

I've spoken with Paco and he told me to send it back, but I'm just wondering if there's anything else I can check, if there's a safety switch inside the controller I can flick, etc?

It's a Kelly KBS type.

When I plugged the battery in, my Watts Up meter showed 49.5V, so there's a circuit there.

I haven't found much information at all, but apparently I might have a short between the B+ and B-

when you say no resistance do you mean a short or 0ohms or is it an open circuit (infinite resistance).

if it is a short then the output fets are shorted out and the controller is dead. the fets are gone. if it shows infinite resistance then some of your power wiring is either broken or burnt out. with good fets the reading should be at least 10K ohms from any phase wire to either battery wire.

there is no internal breaker or safety switch inside the controller.

you may need to send it back.

rick

It shows infinite resistance.

I was hoping that there might have been something inside I could flick. Darn.

Thanks for the reply.
I received the USB cable to program the controller the day before the controller died, I am so happy that I didn't connect it to change anything, or I'd be blaming myself.

i have lost the money few more times with this big motor. torque is weak, 7 teeth on the motor is the most loudest among all the kit . i believe many controller will not survive for long. even there is any thing can program a controller, this big motor will still blow the controller. there is sure need to replace motor to 500w kind or 48v 1000 hub motor

you have to test more. use the diode tester between each phase and each of the B+ and B- leads to the controller.

you should see the body diode in one direction and open circuit in the other direction.

Hi dnmun, I did that and got a reading one way and open circuit the one, between the phases and B- and B+, I don't understand how that happened when using the ohm meter shows open circuit each way.

what did the body diode measure? the forward bias should be identical for the mosfets.

The diode tester showed 656 from B+ or B- to each phase and 1401 from B+ to B-

I decided to try measuring the resistance again and this time it worked.
From B- to each phase I got 52,000 ohms
From B+ to each phase it was slowly rising at 200ohm increments, up to 75,000 ohms when I decided to stop.

I didn't get any resistance the first time, but I think I must have had my meter on the wrong level, I had it on 200k this time and must have had it on 20k the first time.

So the B+ side is working as Kelly's website says it should, the resistance slowly goes up, but the B- side is stuck at 52k.

So I received my new Kelly controller and the same issue happens.

No lights on my throttle.

I've checked the resistance of the new controller and it is the same, increasing resistance on B+ to the phase wires and steady resistance from B- to phase (or the other way around, I can't remember which way right now)

The Kelly website says both B+ and B- to phase should increase the resistance, so it looks like I've gotten another faulty controller straight from Cyclone.
Either that or the Kelly website isn't clear and they mean only one side should increase the resistance.

I've taken my throttle apart again for another look and can't see anything wrong, the switch is definitely working, I don't know how to check the rest of it.

I don't know what to do now.

It turns out the controller is fine. Grr.

Paco from Cyclone told me how to test the throttle and it's found a fault, so he's sending a new one out, I'm just paying for shipping, so that's good.

I've been thinking about how to increase the power of my bike, looks like I'll be upgrading to dual 2400w at some point, as it seems I've got almost everything I need for that now.

Well, I feel dumb, I kind of don't want to update, but I wanted to clear Cyclone's name.

My new throttle arrived and my bike still didn't turn on.

This left the motor itself, or my Watts Up meter, I knew it wasn't the motor, because I should have had power, even without the motor connected, so I cut the wires connecting my Watts Up and checked directly and still no go.

I decided to check my fuse connections and found an issue there, where there seemed to be resistance, then an open circuit.

Long story short, even though I had checked my glass fuse visually a few times, it had died. Visually there's nothing wrong with it, but connecting my meter to either end showed an open circuit.

Yes, a $2 part cost me 2 weeks and ~$190 in unrelated parts.


So my bike's working again, there was never an issue with any Cyclone parts, just a stupid fuse, which I have decided to remove entirely.

I'm tempted to scold you severely and swear up and down that no one else here has never, ever committed such an error. most especially not ME!

good thing the internet is so anonymous. that means you can't actually see me trying to say that with a straight face. i usually console myself by saying that education costs money. and this is cheaper than going to college.

how do you think i ended up with so many spare parts? i was most certainly not trying to start an ebike repair shop. it just sort of happened by accident.

rick

It's a good lesson.

My Watts Up meter would turn on when I connected my battery, so I thought that meant I had a complete circuit, which put me completely down the wrong path.

If I had realised how my Watts Up worked, I would have brought out my voltmeter and checked everything like I did last night.

Oh well, I'm looking forward to a dual 2400w setup, should be lots of fun to have strong acceleration up hill, I can only manage 18mph up the two long hills I ride up on my way to work.