8Fun BBS02 Trek build

radoCol

1 W
Joined
Jan 18, 2013
Messages
63
Hi,

This post is for my build, photos and info to be updated,,,

The kit:
- 8Fun BBS02 750W
- ordered from china (contacted to Amy), delivery time > 1 month
- 46T chain ring
- C963 display

The battery:
- 10Ah/48V/30A discharge, LiFePO4 (in the backpack, not mounted to the bike)
- ordered from GoldenMotor china

The bike:
- Trek Marlin 2013 29er
- BB size 73mm
- front fork - RockShox recon solo air
- in the front 46T, back - 8 speed cassette

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeJ5_lSqp80

Edit...

a new video...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RK38Nw_KNmY

my commute video.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjOqxB2D52E&list=UUaD_Ng2f_yQyzH3nAo5CTMQ

Edit...
In the PAS mode there are the max speed limits like this (with the C963 display):
- ECO mode < 20 km/h ( < 150W )
- TOUR mode < 30 km/h ( < 250W )
- BOOST mode < 40 km/h ( < 400W )
- BOOST mode with a throttle > 40km/h (unlimited. > 400W)

edit...I estimated the power consumption on the assist mode. The power value is according to my driving style, quite flat roads and with the C963 display.
 
Nice job. Looks really clean.

1) did you use the ebrakes? Couldn't tell from your cockpit close up.
2) does using silicone sealant mean the motor doesn't cool as readily?
3) does the battery get warm in your backpack?
4) any trouble using your lowest gear?
 
Nice conversion. The bike is a good fit for the drive.

Not so sure on the silicone sealant all over the drive though. Trying to seal the drive up like that is not really such a good idea. It is actually very well waterproofed in its stock standard form and rate to IP65 which is a rain proof rating.

The motor to controller casing has an O ring seal, so all is covered there. The controller cover is not sealed and is designed not to be sealed. It even has drain holes where the attachment bolts go through to allow the drive to breath.

Inside the controller case, the actual controller is fully potted and all plugs fully sealed making them extremely waterproof.

By sealing up the controller cover, this area can no longer breath. The controller will heat up under load and as it cools down, create a negative pressure which will inturn draw moist air in the controller casing (even if you have sealed it). It will then condense and pool. However, it no longer has an easy path for this moisture to escape and as such may cause internal corrosion due to water pooling.

We found this out a long time ago with various attempts to seal hub motors. Ended up being that hub motor with breather hole ended up having far less internal corrosion problems then motors that were all sealed up.

Your intentions are good and may not cause an issue with this drive. However, I personally wouldn't recommend doing it. I actually hose my bike down after a hard off road ride including hosing the drive down directly. Even doing this I have never had a moisture problem with the drive.
 
giantNRS1 said:
Nice job. Looks really clean.

1) did you use the ebrakes? Couldn't tell from your cockpit close up.
2) does using silicone sealant mean the motor doesn't cool as readily?
3) does the battery get warm in your backpack?
4) any trouble using your lowest gear?

1: Yes, they are ok but ugly :) Works amazingly well, you just pull with a finger and the power cuts out immediately. I think they are MUST.

2: I tested the motor with a throttle mode (I was going about 50 km/h) on the flat and I saw quite high power readings like > 700W in the power meter of the C963 display. The motor was warm when I touched with my hand but not too hot (the air temperature was about 10C degrees). I don't believe the silicone affects the cooling because it's in the middle not in the heat sink part (side).

3: Yes the battery is warm even in the hottest summer but not too warm. The battery is in the perfect temp in the freezing weather like -15C degrees. I think the battery is better to be there in the backpack on winter time.

4: I can use my lowest gear without a problem but when I turn my bike upside down I have the chain dropouts! So I think if the chain is loose then there might be dropouts...
 
Kepler said:
Nice conversion. The bike is a good fit for the drive.
... The controller cover is not sealed and is designed not to be sealed. It even has drain holes where the attachment bolts go through to allow the drive to breath ...

Hi,

Thanks for your comments, very good analyze! I used the same silicone to protect my previous kit (MagicPie3) and it was must. Some people reported condensation water problems but I had any. I used my bike from freezing temp to warm within a same day so there should be condensation water after the motor cools down.

I didn't add the silicone all over the motor (BBS02) so the breathing should be ok. I know I'm too careful sometimes :)

-rado
 
Yesterday I did my commute driving...
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The distance from home to work is about 15 km. I used the tour and boost mode. I had head wind and traffic lights on the second lap. What a great commuter!!!!
 
Great photos and videos.
I'm looking forward to installing a BBS-02 on a Trek 8.2.
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Over time, I'll be upgrading the brakes and wheels on this bike with the first upgrade being a 11-34 7sp freewheel up from the stock 14-34.
Based on your post, I'm glad I'm getting a 46t chainring by default. Since the frame is similar to the Marlin, I probably would have had an issue with the 48t chainring hitting the chainstay.
 
I noticed ya don't have the locknut on the bottom bracket, guess it won't fit with wider bottom bracket? Did ya locktight the nut?
 
My "donor bike" has a 73 mm bottom bracket. Is it feasible to machine one or two mm off each side in order to have room for the lock nut? I have a friend who has a machine shop and could do this pretty easily. It may require cutting a couple of threads in the bottom bracket too, but I doubt it.
 
2old said:
My "donor bike" has a 73 mm bottom bracket. Is it feasible to machine one or two mm off each side in order to have room for the lock nut? I have a friend who has a machine shop and could do this pretty easily. It may require cutting a couple of threads in the bottom bracket too, but I doubt it.
My Trek also had a 73MM BB and I was able to use longer screws and spacers with a single lock ring and secure it with Loctite. On that bike machining the crank side BB down would have improved the chain line and allowed for the OEM double lock rings and supplied fasteners. Lectric cycles sells their kits with longer screws and spacers to work, reportedly, just fine without machining. Make your decision based on the chainline.
 
tomjasz said:
My Trek also had a 73MM BB and I was able to use longer screws and spacers with a single lock ring and secure it with Loctite. On that bike machining the crank side BB down would have improved the chain line and allowed for the OEM double lock rings and supplied fasteners. Lectric cycles sells their kits with longer screws and spacers to work, reportedly, just fine without machining. Make your decision based on the chainline.

Good info! Thanks for sharing!
 
Hey Guys,

Thank you, very useful info!! I got a pair of BBS-02s (one for me and my world record attempt) and one for my wife to ride along in some stretches of the road. I should be receiving my bike (a simple diamondback 29er, overdrive i believe) this week.

I assembled a bike with a hub motor before, si I don't think it should be a big deal, but i'll be posting questions if i get stuck.

Cheers
 
tomcortijo said:
Hey Guys,

Thank you, very useful info!! I got a pair of BBS-02s (one for me and my world record attempt) and one for my wife to ride along in some stretches of the road. I should be receiving my bike (a simple diamondback 29er, overdrive i believe) this week.

I assembled a bike with a hub motor before, si I don't think it should be a big deal, but i'll be posting questions if i get stuck.

Cheers


You should consider using a hub motor too to alternate duty or in case something goes wrong.....It doesn't add too much weight but can be great for backup....just a cheap geared hub for some piece of mind. I had my rear cassette fail on me and it brought me back home.
 
Electric Junk said:
tomcortijo said:
Hey Guys,

You should consider using a hub motor too to alternate duty or in case something goes wrong.....It doesn't add too much weight but can be great for backup....just a cheap geared hub for some piece of mind. I had my rear cassette fail on me and it brought me back home.


I'm so sorry, and couldn't you just replace the back wheel or cassette and keep going?

How long did your cassette last until it died?? How often do they die on average?

Thanks!
 
tomcortijo said:
Electric Junk said:
tomcortijo said:
Hey Guys,

You should consider using a hub motor too to alternate duty or in case something goes wrong.....It doesn't add too much weight but can be great for backup....just a cheap geared hub for some piece of mind. I had my rear cassette fail on me and it brought me back home.


I'm so sorry, and couldn't you just replace the back wheel or cassette and keep going?

How long did your cassette last until it died?? How often do they die on average?

Thanks!

I suppose you are right it's a lot easier to replace a cassette on a normal wheel...

Maybe a front then

I really stomped on my cassettes, i stripped out the small ring on the cassette...but have no trouble now that i take it easy.
 
Electric Junk said:


I really stomped on my cassettes, i stripped out the small ring on the cassette...but have no trouble now that i take it easy.[/quote]

I used to hate the back hub motor. A flat tire meant a nightmare :).

I am going to take it easy. It's a looong ride i am embarking on, and i'll be riding with on of my kids on the bike most of the time!. I hope i can make it!

Thanks a lot!
 
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