eZip Turbo

I've been playing with 25.9V and 33.3V battery packs.
Cheap controller upgrade allows 24 - 36V battery usage.
Rack holds 2 packs, so I can run at 25.9V and reaching back, switch to 33.3V for a nice torque and speed increase.

Got me thinking about other options ...

1. Why not build a light 3s pack in 2nd eZip battery case. (RC LiPo or Dell LiPo or laptop Li-ion)
I have a few 3s WinForce 5700mAh and 4 in parallel would give me 22.8Ah.
I could rig in series with 25.9V for a 10s 37V Turbo pack.
Switch position I (1) would run as 25.9V (485w motor output) for a legal 20mph ...
Switch to position II (2) would engage 37V (675w motor output) for nearing 30mph!
(675w output could push a "Racing Bike Tuck" to 30mph ... but more liable to add pedal assist)
Hook 3s pack neg to 7s pack positive then hook 7s pos to switch position I and 3s pos to switch position II.
or
2. Move switch and wires near seat.
This allows enough extra room in rack for a 5.7Ah 3s RC Lipo = a few miles of Stealth Turbo!

eZip motor@37V w/11T or 16T mod gives some assist to 34+mph.

I also like the idea of the 3s pack for 12V devices and 110V AC inverter use! Use charging port for 12V output.

36-37V operation advises a limited current controller ... <30A? Or throttle restraint at lower speeds.

25.9V w/11T mod runs steadily right near 20mph.
(11T motor sprocket mod and 16T wheel freewheel mods produce nearly identical speed increases)
37V should provide a motor only speed near 27mph.


Turbo upgrade would be better applied to my pedal eZip with high seat, 11T rear cog and MY1018z motor.
MY1018z tends to output ~10% higher speed than XYD-16 motor ... at the cost of greater noise.
However, at 30mph, the wind noise should drown out most anything else.

Please note!
Straight line torque-speed line is for comparison purposes only.
Actual-accurate is dependent on controller and typically a sagging line that drops off suddenly.

example approximates theXYD-16 motor, 25A controller w/13T mod


See - full XYD-16 documentation

Sure, if you have some batteries of different Ah to add to the mix, using contact switches would allow them to be taken out of the circuit on the fly when they were spent. Its a bit of complexity that wouldn't be ideal for a clean-sheet build and probably wouldn't be good for the average operator, but certainly an option for many of the E-S crowd.

DrkAngel said:

36-37V operation advises a limited current controller ... <30A? Or throttle restraint at lower speeds.

Click to expand...

Using a high output controller is very much like using a non-stock turbo that will overstress the cooling system if used excessively. Gotta watch the temperature gauge with both.

"Turbo" recommended for brief intervals only.
Especially during the hot Summer weather, excessive or continuous use will overheat-damage the eZip motor.
Recommended for attaining good speed when approaching hills, staying ahead of 30mph traffic for brief runs and humiliating Spandexters.

Oh, not necessary to use full throttle while in turbo mode ... can greatly extend range at moderate speed ... !
and
Same wattage, from higher voltage-lesser amps, will help motor run more efficiently = less heat-more range.

eZip "Nitrous"?
Similar to Nitrous Oxide-fuel injection button in a ICE, it would be possible to induce the same concept in an eZip.

NOS (Nitrous Oxide System) concept is for a massive unregulated power infusion.
Run 2-24V batteries in series
Operate normally from #1 battery = switch position 1.
Rig switch position 2 as momentary to a contactor that engages full series 48V, bypassing controller, directly to brush motor.
(Center position is a positive disconnect!)
(Likely advisable to prevent voltage backwash into controller - large value diode.)

Similar to NOS, power infusion would manifest as a notable acceleration and speed increase
but
would be similarly damaging in wear and tear.
And, similar to NOS should only be engaged as motor is nearing full normal speed.

Of course 2 x 24V batteries is not necessary.
For convenience, I, might run as my normal 7s 25.9V + 6s 22.2V for a 13s 48.1V "NOS"
or
7s 25.9V + 7s 25.9V for a 14s 51.8V
(Any voltage of 2nd battery is theoretically usable)
But, 48V at low speed-high Amp will shear the key holding the motor sprocket.

Sorry ... probably not something I would normally consider.
More of a logical progression ... beyond the "Turbo" concept ...

NOS - Not Overly Safe

Turbo Switch Wiring Diagram



Center switch position is a disconnect
(Faulty switch could result in short condition! (unlikely but) Do not operate unless both batteries have proper fuse installed!!!)
Simply redirecting 2nd battery (3s 11.1V) neg wire allows a turbo function.

OEM Gearing
Normal - my eZip, 25.9V provides 17mph w/485w motor output.
Turbo - my eZip, 37V provides ~23mph w/695w motor output.

Upgraded to 16T wheel sprocket or 11T motor sprocket
Normal - my eZip, 25.9V provides 20mph w/485w motor output.
Turbo - my eZip, 37V provides ~27mph w/695w motor output.

Any Turbo voltage is possible ... if controller supports normal and Turbo voltages.
eZip MY1018z and XYD-16 motors have survived as high as 48V input if ...
lower Amp controller or stringent throttle restraint at lower speeds.
35A 48V can "burn up" motor and\or shear the sprocket retention key.

I chose 7s (25.9V) plus 3s (11.1V) because I run 25.9V at gearing for legal 20mph.
I have a large quantity of 3s LiPo that can fit nicely in 2nd eZip battery case.
(Can also task 11.1V pack for 12V lighting or inverter use)
Motor has been proven at 25.9V (20,000+ miles on 3 eBikes) and 37V (4000+ miles on 1 eBike)
(27mph motor only allows 30mph capability w\heavy pedal assist!) 8)