new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Discussions related to motors other than hub motors.
This includes R/C motors, botttom bracket, roller and geared drives.
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RageNR
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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by RageNR » Nov 11, 2017 10:24 am

minimum wrote:Usually for these controllers there's to-92 case voltage regulator which is capable of putting out up to 100mA.
Thanks for the tip. I'll have to pull my controller back apart and look for that component.
I did try to trace down the regulator when I had it apart before, but was unable to locate it. Maybe I can figure it out this time.
progrock wrote:What's the specs on the SaiKeLong 400?
It's the stock controller that comes with the Cyclone 3k kit (the 1800-3000w). It's rated for 36-72v 40Amp, but many of us have been running it right at the max, and a little over.
I've run mine a few test runs on 24s, but no long range runs. It worked without issue, however I would not run it like that all the time.
Mind you I have not modded the shunt for more amps. That test run was with 4x relatively weak power tool packs. I doubt they could output more than 30A.
(FWIW, 24s x30A... I'd say each cell in my pack was putting out 3.9v under full load. 24 x 3.9 = 93.6v ______ so 93.6 x 30A = 2,808w. Still under 3000w)

Your main issue is the 3x 80v caps for each motor phase. Caps are usually underrated by around 10-15%. While you could run them at 72-96V, that would not be wise.
They will run hotter and dry out faster. In the worst case, you might have a weak cap that barely meets the spec, and blows out under high load. Could possibly take other components with it.
So you could run it on 24s, but understand that you will be shortening the life of the controller if nothing catastrophic ends up happening.

You would be stressing the whole controller going over the spec. Mostly the Caps and the FETs. Those would need to be upgraded at the least.
For short quick bursts, you might do ok. Continuous riding at that power level would kill the controller pretty quickly.
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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by markz » Nov 11, 2017 4:28 pm

Somehow broke my half twist throttle ignition, sensor wire and ground shows 0V. Connected up spare throttle (with no dmm) and still nothing, checked spare throttle on hksunwin controller with mxus 3k, dmm shows everything normal, yet that throttle does not work, might be ignition but its connected. Only thing to do is hook up Cyclone again, test spare throttle with dmm and order a few spare throttles.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by progrock » Nov 11, 2017 5:00 pm

Oh, I didn't realize that... plus I thought the controller has some kind of voltage detection where it wouldn't work with over 20s... but if not, that's amazing news.

I've already upgraded my 80v caps to much better 100V.... apparently I should have gone even higher, since I wanna run it at 24s.... they are a PAIN IN THE ASS to replace due to the insane amount of solder on them (well, at least on my bluetooth version).. I actually bought a Hakko FR-300 after dealing with that mess, so next time it would be easier. The Hakko FR-300 is AMAZING.. well worth the money (totally seemed overly expensive till I got it in my hand, then even better once I used it). I also did a bunch of other relatively minor mods to the controller... tho ironically, I did not do the shunt mod... figured I would do that later if needed.... but now thinking I should have while it was apart (spent a bunch of time cleaning off the stock thermal paste, that was a total mess after all the mods)... tempted to go back and add a little bit of solder, already tested/calculated the shunt's resistance (for calibrating my Cycle Analyst), so should be easy to calculate the difference after shunt modding. Tempted to do the capacitors AGAIN, now that I know the controller should work at 24s (tech the 100v should handle it... but the reason I upgraded the 80v was b/c I was gonna run 20s and didn't like pushing the caps to their limit, plus totally got better quality ones).

BTW, in case anyone is interested in upgrading their 3 large (and shitty) 80v capacitors... The stock ones are 470uF Aluminum Lytic, the size of them is 16 x 25mm... while not impossible to fit, I found 16 x 31.5mm capacitors were just a tad too big (again, possible to if you really tried.. but I was worried about them touching the top of the metal case). As far as 100v caps go, they are easy enough to find that are the right size. Now, the "next" step up apparently appears to be 160v... The only one's I could find was: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/lgn2c ... 5/nichicon (22 x 25mm... 22mm might be a little wide, but I think it's manageable.. and so far the best choice size wise) and https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/1004288 (25 x 25mm, even bigger than the previous) and https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/2540352 (22 x 27mm, probably manageable, but tight). If you're gonna go with 160v, I'd go with arrow (also my favorite electronics company to order from, free overnight shipping on $20 orders.... I'd recommend buying some 100v back-ups that are smaller).

A quick note about choosing capacitors... if your gonna be running max 20s, I don't recommend going 160v... only if you're gonna be pushing them, ie 24s... Running a Cap to it's max, or above, is not the best idea.... but running a 160v when a 100v will do, is also a bad idea... the efficiency of the higher V caps will be worse in that case... which means more heat... always a bad idea.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by markz » Nov 12, 2017 4:22 am

I feel naked and caged with no e-wheels

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by RageNR » Nov 12, 2017 12:43 pm

markz wrote:Somehow broke my half twist throttle ignition, sensor wire and ground shows 0V.
Hey Mark, did you try unplugging the ignition wire connector at the controller and short the pins together?
Talking about the 2 red-wire pin connector. Unplug that and short the pins together, see if it starts up. (Just remember that is FULL battery pack voltage running through those pins)
Don't know if you checked that yet. First thing that came to my mind.
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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by progrock » Nov 13, 2017 4:06 am

I was just watching the Luna cyclone install video with the "new" mounting bracket. They have washers (I believe they call them spacers in the video, but they def just look like thin washers) that go between the lockrings... since I didn't order from Luna... neither my original kit, or mount kit, came with these spacers. I can't see anything special about them other than that, I'm assuming they are metal (I've found ones that look a tiny bit thicker and serrated on both flat sides, as well as silicon gaskets, and also some flat ones, copper and other metals... should be able to find a thin, smooth steel one, which is what they appear to be). Anyway, my real question is... does anyone know what the point of using these are? are the necessary? (or at least a good idea/not pointless) ... Also, if anyone has these, could you LMK exactly what they are... ID, OD, thickness, etc.

Another thing I am slightly confused about, the bearings in the square taper bottom bracket say 6002RS... but every 6002RS I see has a 15mm ID... but the bottome bracket is 16mm... not sure how that makes sense.

I gotta say, the newer style mounting bracket that actually goes attaches to the motor, without the funky offset spacers, or whatever you call them (the 2 aluminum almost oval shaped pieces with 2 holes in them, used on the original bracket to attach to the motor). Besides it just looking like it'll be more solid, definitely simplifies the instructions quite a bit (not that the original was that hard to figure out... just this is now stupid simple). Definitely glad I ordered it from cyclone (at least until a new custom mount is available... I've heard people say Luna is gonna have one soon, but I have no clue where they got that info from). As I mentioned, I actually could not believe the experience I had dealing with cyclone directly, getting a response to an email 1 min after sending it, at an odd hour on a Sunday... being given a discount on shipping, and having it at my doorstep in under 2 weeks (much closer to 1).... and great communication... all in all, I couldn't believe it, expected the exact opposite, very pleasantly surprised.

BTW, now that I know the controller doesn't have a hard voltage limit, I'm planning to go 24s2p instead of 20s2p now... but gonna keep the 100v capacitors I installed, while just at their limit, I think they should still be able to handle it. And a 24s2p pack with these Sanyo 20700A batteries should be amazing (technically possible for the pack to produce 60A at 100v... even with just 48 cells total.... THO I don't plan to push it that hard, hoping for 3-4kW, not 6kW). I'm also debating on what to make my secondary battery (for longer trips)... either another 24s2p as a backup... or I'm thinking maybe going 24s3p. Probably going to use the same cells... unless I can find a good deal on 3,500mAh (or close, 3,400 would be ok) 18650's (ideally the GA's) for a good price.... so far most prices weren't even as good as the $5 shipped I'm getting these 20700A's at.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Ddt » Nov 13, 2017 10:32 am

progrock wrote:I was just watching the Luna cyclone install video with the "new" mounting bracket. They have washers (I believe they call them spacers in the video, but they def just look like thin washers) that go between the lockrings... since I didn't order from Luna... neither my original kit, or mount kit, came with these spacers. I can't see anything special about them other than that, I'm assuming they are metal (I've found ones that look a tiny bit thicker and serrated on both flat sides, as well as silicon gaskets, and also some flat ones, copper and other metals... should be able to find a thin, smooth steel one, which is what they appear to be). Anyway, my real question is... does anyone know what the point of using these are? are the necessary? (or at least a good idea/not pointless) ... Also, if anyone has these, could you LMK exactly what they are... ID, OD, thickness, etc.

Another thing I am slightly confused about, the bearings in the square taper bottom bracket say 6002RS... but every 6002RS I see has a 15mm ID... but the bottome bracket is 16mm... not sure how that makes sense.

I gotta say, the newer style mounting bracket that actually goes attaches to the motor, without the funky offset spacers, or whatever you call them (the 2 aluminum almost oval shaped pieces with 2 holes in them, used on the original bracket to attach to the motor). Besides it just looking like it'll be more solid, definitely simplifies the instructions quite a bit (not that the original was that hard to figure out... just this is now stupid simple). Definitely glad I ordered it from cyclone (at least until a new custom mount is available... I've heard people say Luna is gonna have one soon, but I have no clue where they got that info from). As I mentioned, I actually could not believe the experience I had dealing with cyclone directly, getting a response to an email 1 min after sending it, at an odd hour on a Sunday... being given a discount on shipping, and having it at my doorstep in under 2 weeks (much closer to 1).... and great communication... all in all, I couldn't believe it, expected the exact opposite, very pleasantly surprised.

BTW, now that I know the controller doesn't have a hard voltage limit, I'm planning to go 24s2p instead of 20s2p now... but gonna keep the 100v capacitors I installed, while just at their limit, I think they should still be able to handle it. And a 24s2p pack with these Sanyo 20700A batteries should be amazing (technically possible for the pack to produce 60A at 100v... even with just 48 cells total.... THO I don't plan to push it that hard, hoping for 3-4kW, not 6kW). I'm also debating on what to make my secondary battery (for longer trips)... either another 24s2p as a backup... or I'm thinking maybe going 24s3p. Probably going to use the same cells... unless I can find a good deal on 3,500mAh (or close, 3,400 would be ok) 18650's (ideally the GA's) for a good price.... so far most prices weren't even as good as the $5 shipped I'm getting these 20700A's at.
Hello
It not a good idea overvoltage the spec of the kit,the motor are rate for around 2500rpm after 3000rpm the efficency will drop easily,and dont over amperage because the width stator are 25mm,if you want a heater for the winter its a good idea :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by progrock » Nov 13, 2017 11:25 am

Well, unless I'm wrong, I'm assuming the Voltage limits are specific to the controller, not the motor... in which case, I have modded the controller quite a bit to handle the Volts. I don't expect to be have the throttle maxed out regularly, but wouldn't mind having a little extra go available if needed. From what I've seen other people running these motors at, seems like they can handle more than 3000w... but even tho the battery pack could handle 60A at 100V... I def don't plan on ever pushing it that hard. The higher volts (ie. running 24s instead of 20s) should just allow me to have the power I want, at a lower amperage. Which I was hoping would be better for the batteries, and ideally possibly even better for the controller/motor.

Anyway, I definitely appreciate the warning... and if I'm wrong, or you have more info/warnings, please LMK.... but at least for now, I think this setup should be able to handle what I'm trying to do with it.... and if I do break things... you won't hear me blaming anyone but myself. But again... any advice/warnings are more than welcome.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by progrock » Nov 13, 2017 11:31 am

BTW, was just sizing up the new motor mount... seems liek I have the horizontal distance pretty close to spot on for my 73mm BB... BUT, the drive side is much "higher" (further from motor) than the left side. It actually looks worse in person than the photos... was very strange, a bunch of photos totalluy looked perfect, even tho there's easily a 1-2cm difference. I'm already using the inner holes on the drive side and the outer on the left... what do people usually do to fix this offset, I assume you want this just about perfectly lined up if somehow possible.
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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Skaiwerd » Nov 13, 2017 12:22 pm

Progrock

It looks like the bends are not perfect with the motor mount bracket, shown on the left side in your photo. Was probably bent by someone inserting the bracket into a brake of sorts. Perfection would only come from an automated process which was probably not used to keep costs down, understandable. Sometimes things need to be loosened up elsewhere, like the other non bent bracket, bottom bracket etc. get things to fit loosely then selectively tighten up things a little at a time till it’s just right and tight. Things tightened up to early may fight your progress.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by hypertoric_amplituhedron » Nov 13, 2017 1:24 pm

progrock wrote: The higher volts (ie. running 24s instead of 20s) should just allow me to have the power I want, at a lower amperage. Which I was hoping would be better for the batteries, and ideally possibly even better for the controller/motor.
Wait a sec, from what I understand, it won't be better for your batteries or motor or controller. All three will suffer from 24s and lower amps. In general,raising the voltage will raise the rpm range that's most efficient for a motor. But there are limits ...

This motor has a limit to its efficiency, right around the rpm achieved by 18s . So, pumping 24s through it will force you to use much higher rpm than what the motor is designed for.

You'll be wasting power into heat by trying to not bog the motor down on 24s. It's a lose-lose scenario. Bogging motor = waste heat . High rpm from 24s = waste heat .

All of this waste heat is wasting your batteries, and heating up the motor, and possibly controller (depending on phase:battery amp ratio and controller rating, I guess).

Ideally, you'd want the same motor with a lower Kv rating / higher turn count for 24s, which is not available as far as I know.
There are two types of people in this world.

1. Those who can extrapolate from missing information.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by progrock » Nov 13, 2017 2:33 pm

hypertoric, thanks for the info.... I'll have to do some more research on that before deciding between 24s and 20s.

edit: TBH, the most interesting thing might be to try both for some time, record results, and compare. That was sort of my original plan. Though, there's a pretty high likelihood that whatever I start with, I'll just keep, lol. But so far this is making me lean to starting with 20s.... but hopefully curiosity keeps me motivated to try 24s at some point... after a few months.... unless my research really leads me to believe its a REALLY bad idea.

Thanks again for the info/warning... it is extremely helpful.

edit2: Oh, and Skaiward, thanks for the advice as well... sadly not too much to loosen up, but definitely a good idea to approach it that way, instead of trying to bend things with everything tight. Obviously I'm not the first person to see this with a cyclone, so guess it's more than manageable... but def wanna get things aligned pretty damn well, with all this power, if it's not.... could be real bad news.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Skaiwerd » Nov 13, 2017 5:51 pm

Progrock

On a second look. To me it looks like the angle bends are over bent to me if that’s a term. Or the extra length the bends take up was not calculated correctly. It must work if it’s sold with the kit you would think. Might need some strategic hammer blows or vise work to correct the angles.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by progrock » Nov 13, 2017 6:06 pm

Skaiwerd, it's pretty close to dead on width (my BB is 73mm)... but probably a 2-3mm tight.. not enough to fully coprrect things.. but still a little bit in the right direction. What I was thinking... I asked above about the washers/spacers Luna provides with the kit (and actually luna's kit apparently comes bent for 100mm BB, so you have to adjust the bend anyway... BUT, they either had 1 or possibly even 2 extra spacers on the inside of the mount... which would effectively widen the width of the BB that the two mounts would need to fit around. That would also help get the bent side closer to inline. I still think there's a tiny ways to go more, but with those 2 tweaks... would def be moving in the right direction, and much closer to true.

Sadly, not having the best of luck finding a decent price on washers/spacers that are the right size... I believe it's 35mm ID... as far as metal washers/spacers that size, I've been seeing single 1mm wide ones for like $7. I'm sure there's somewhere with them cheap, just haven't found it yet, and def don't wanna wait more than 3-4 days to get them. Too bad Luna doesn't sell them, in their install video, they have a whole bin of them.

While my mount is pretty close to identical, I think the bend it came with was slgihtly different (def much closer to 68mm than 100mm) and unlike Luna's, my drive side mount does NOT have a tapered whole, instead the kit came with 1 countersunk bolt, 1 buttonhead (instead of a second countersunk).... and of course, no spacers. Everything else appears to be identical... what somewhat surprised me was what came with the mount directly from cyclone, I was expecting the 2 main pieces, a couple of bolts, maybe a couple of spacers and washers... it came with all that, BUT it also came with a different size (longer) piece of the bottom bracket shell, with a bearing, and the entire chain tensioner arm, plus a metal cable tie (this was semi confusing, since I thought one of the major benifits of the new bracket is that you no longer need this danky looking thing) and a couple of pretty serious zip ties. All in all, pretty sweet... the shipping cost somewhat negates the good deal, but I still can't get over the speed it got here, and how good their communication was.

BTW, forgot to post the video I've been referring to: https://youtu.be/G99tNdeZa0g

I think I finally found some washers/spacers similar to what Luna was using... I hope. I had measured the outside of the BB to be about 35mm, which is what I had been searching for.... then realized it might be considered 1 3/8"... so was searching for 1 3/8" washers.... which was getting me closer, but still overpriced, AND generally WAYY too big OD. After a bit, finally tried 1-3/8 in spacer... and finally landed here: http://a.co/8WcmRz3 .... putting in 1 3/8" for the ID, and a ton of items showed up, starting with an OD of 1 7/8"... which I'm thinking is exactly what I want, and instead of 1 being $6-7, can get 10 for $14-15 it looks like. Not an amazing price, but it'll work, especially with the one-day/same-day shipping. Now I just need to figure out what thickness I wanna go with... normally I'd order a couple of different in this situation, but can't say I wanna spend more than $20 on these, so gonna have to make a good choice.... and I suppose I can always double them up if needed. Tho I def need to remeasure, and really hope this is the correct size.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by markz » Nov 15, 2017 4:13 pm

:!: Yup I took it off, and yup I am too lazy to take off the brackets and install bottom bracket and crankset. Just redid the battery pack, from 6Ah 72V to 12Ah 60V. Hopefully can obtain decent mileage :!:
Cyclone off the bike.jpg
Never did hook up both motor controllers to a single throttle. Would have been interesting. Main concern now is selling the C4K locally and fixing all the geared and dd motors I currently have. That is the mxus 3k, battery is hidden on the cabinet side. 60V hksuniwn cont, crystalyte 26" dh rim, and yes a 7 speed freewheel.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Apex » Nov 19, 2017 2:46 pm

It has been a while since I posted in here.
Here is my new cyclone build. Just completed trial runs, just need to re-fab top motor mount and replace wood block with an aluminum box to tuck the wires into.
Then, it's on to bike upgrades like a fork that does not suck.

Image

flat tire
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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by flat tire » Nov 21, 2017 7:40 pm

24s would be fine on this motor. I was running 30s before and really liked the high speed in lower gears even tho it was less efficient. Now I'm running 20s and there is a little more efficiency but I have to really use the gears.
Orange DH w/ Cyclone mid on 6kw
Gary Fisher w/ Leaf hub on 6kw
RC Lipo and domino throttles only!

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by progrock » Nov 23, 2017 7:07 am

Flat tire, thank you for chiming in!... and with great news at that. I assumed the efficiency would go down a bit... but was hoping the 24s would give a little more power. I'm also using a single speed mount bike (at least to start, hoping I won't find it necessary to add gears, but if so, might try to go with a IGH).

I think I'm still gonna give the 20s a try to start.... but hearing this will motivate me to bump it up to 24s after a month or two. This way I'll have a chance to compare the two, and see which I like more.

BTW, guess what sickbikeparts apparently added to their stock... they are calling it the "3000W HD Mount"....pretty funny timing, I suppose it was very stupid of me not to ask them about the mount before ordering one (I wouldn't be surprised if they had them on hand already when I had ordered). BUT... I didn't miss out on anything... they are selling them at a reasonable price (and nice that they offer it separate unlike luna), it's $45.. BUT, for 68-100mm BB's you gotta buy the $15 "HD Mount Adapter". Cyclone in Taiwan sent me both the moutn and adapter when I ordered the mount, and took less than a week to get to me, cost just under $69 total. So SBP's prettty much has the same deal as they did (cheaper if you're using a fat bike with 100mm+ BB). I think it's great they now have it, now I can recommend them, without having to explain that Liuna has a better mount (given Luna includes it in the kit, but SBP allows you to get upgrades, and includes other parts with theirs... so it still works out close to even).

I'll be honest, I don't think the Cyclone is going to stay on this bike for very long. I have been drooling over these RC mid drives... tho wish I could find a solid kit that's not $2k. Also wish I was better at machining, though now that techshop has shutdown, I don't have access to machining tools anyway... just an angle grinder and drill, plus some useful attachments/mounts. I need to look into places that'll do custom machining, where I can hand them a 3d file (or more likely the output of one that a CNC can use). I'm assuming most places that do this charge an arm and a leg... anyone know any good sites that aren't too expensive? If I can come up with a simple 2 stage reduction and a mount... could be possible to make my own custom RC build, without forking over as much money. I'm also getting ready to build my first custom controller, using lebowski's controller PIC.... pretty sure it's FOC capabilities plus a good power distribution board could produce a seriously nice controller for this kind of an RC build... might even be able to get in th 6K watts+ range... a 24s4p pack of these Sanyo 20700A's would be a complete beast. Anyway, some form of RC setup on this frame would produce pretty close to my ideal build (low weight was always one of my top priorities, while still having plenty of power). But, I won't be saying goodbye to this cyclone, that's for sure, I'll just have to find another bike to move it to.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by progrock » Nov 23, 2017 11:20 pm

See how I have both the original cyclone mount, and the new one (or as SBP is calling it, the "HD mount")... and while the HD mount is def better than the original, I don't think either will totally get the job done alone (not that they won't work, just there's plenty of room for improvement). I ended up using 2 x 1.65mm thick washers on the inside of the non drive side of the bottom bracket to help make the bracket fit. I'm considering trying to use the original left/non-drive side (3mm thick) with the left side of the new mount... OR, possibly even better, use the original's drive side on the left, on top of the new mount's left. Sadly the original mount is setup with a little different dimensions/angles (would have be soo easy if not), but it's larger, not smaller, than needed... I might be able to drill new holes that line up... which would require grinding away the excess (including the old holes). I don't know how much of an improvement this would make, the original has those danky offsets instead of mounting to the motor (though that is what makes this possible). But without knowing any technical details, I could only imagine it would still be an improvement, and wouldn't require too much effort (and I have everything I need already here). Wish I still had access to a machine shop to be able to correctly/cleanly modify the original bracket, but I have a Bosch angle grinder and a bunch of metal grinding wheels for it, I'm pretty sure I can manage a mod like this.

I just used it mounted onto one of these, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003B ... UTF8&psc=1 (This mount is amazing if you got a grinder, but not the space fore a miter saw, etc... it kinda turns it into a mini miter, with the right blade, and it's pretty damn nice/solid, crazy for $20 shipped)... to cut a few pieces of 1/4" x 1/2" solid copper stock... hoping to use them sandwiched between 2 of my battery packs, to help make a clean high current connection between the packs (then planning to use some thinner, probably 16oz copper plate to beef up the connections between parallel groups within each pack. Also made use of the grinder with a 120 grit flap disc for the first step to put a near mirror finish on the 1/4" x 1/2" copper (started with the grinder with that, then went from 150 -> 240 -> 400 -> 800 -> 1200 -> 2000 -> 3000 grit sand paper stages by hand... TBH, since the rest was done by hand, probably could have just done all of it, BUT with a few seconds and the flap disc, the copper was already in a condition that probably was plenty good to begin with). Considering I'm in a studio apartment, and almost everyone I know (at least everyone with a house or workshop... my family and most of my friends) are on the opposite coast as me now, I have no one with tools I can use... this angle grinder is a hell of a useful tool to have around, I def recommend people in my kind of situation to get one. Of course I would practically kill to have a garage with some serious tools, every since techshop shut down I've been totally stuck with what I have... though I suppose I'm not doing half bad for a studio apartment (got 2 tool benches, 2 large tool boxes, plus a ton of other tool bins and portable boxes, as well as an armoire that's jsut a bunch of those 48 drawer parts organizers)... at least it'la large studio apartment.

Hoping to have everything on the bike by tomorrow, and if all goes well, be riding it. Just got a few more things to do... and some regular maintenance... totally need to bleed the brakes, and replacing the pads while I'm at it. Can't wait to be riding this thing.

elementary
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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by elementary » Nov 26, 2017 9:58 pm

This home made bracket is holding up with 20 cells of HobbyKing lipo and very hard woods riding
3000bracketsm.jpg
Home made bracket
3000asm.jpg
Full suspension carbon fiber woods bike

markz
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Location: Alberta Canada

Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by markz » Nov 27, 2017 12:23 am

Is that a stock Cyclone guard?

That stupid plastic thing on the crank broke on mine, winter riding, ice, snow, broke.

Apex
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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Apex » Nov 27, 2017 8:36 pm

markz wrote:
Nov 27, 2017 12:23 am
That stupid plastic thing on the crank broke on mine, winter riding, ice, snow, broke.
Sick bike parts has them for $4
http://sickbikeparts.com/shift-kit-and- ... -products/

Alex07
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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Alex07 » Nov 28, 2017 4:57 am

Post
by Apex » Tue Nov 28, 2017 12:36 pm
markz wrote: ↑
Mon Nov 27, 2017 4:23 pm
That stupid plastic thing on the crank broke on mine, winter riding, ice, snow, broke.
Sick bike parts has them for $4
http://sickbikeparts.com/shift-kit-and- ... -products/
Stop wasting your time with those plastic guards they are weak junk and meant to break ! one chain derailment or hitting a bump and those support plastic screw tangs break off !

Might as well change it once and do it properly to the AFT hduty bashguard, as a side benefit not only is it a chainguard since its 4mm thick it acts as log bashguard lol and chain guide.... standard plastic ones just bend when chain tries to derail vs the 4mm Aluminium one forcing chain to stay on. Nice piece of kit ....


Found it here : Heavy-Duty Chainwheel Bash Guard This 4mm thick guard bolts onto existing outer bolt holes

http://www.aft-ebike.com/upgrades.html
Attachments
cycline hduty  chain bashguard.jpg
cycline hduty chain bashguard.jpg (121.84 KiB) Viewed 201 times

ebike11
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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by ebike11 » Dec 02, 2017 11:47 pm

Does anyone know the "Rshunt value" of the stock 3000w controller from cyclone is? I need to enter this information into the Cycle Analyst set up menu. Im using the Grin external shunt with Cycle Analyst plug in between the controller and battery. Thx

Jasonafriedman
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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Jasonafriedman » Dec 03, 2017 1:54 am

Hi everyone. Im starting the install and had a few questions. I am trying to find out how the mounting hardware works. I bought my kit from Luna cycles and it came with 2 thick brackets. Its going on a fatbike with 105mm BB spacing. The bottom bracket they gave me is too wide, how do I move the non drive side bearing closer in to make the bottom braket spacing correct? Its currently spaced at 120mm. The calipers in the picture are set at 105 mm and you can see the BB cups are too far apart. Additionally, which bolts do I use to connect the chain guide? I am trying to make sense of this upgraded mounting hardware, I can't seem to find any pics of it. There are no aluminum standoffs and it looks like the plates bolt directly to the motor casing. Can someone point me in the right direction for how this kit goes together with the updated brackets?
Please see the attached pics.
Thanks,
Jason

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