)Since it was only 50 bucks for the kit (motor, controller, throttle and harness) I didn't get any guff over the purchase, though I hadn't yet started talking about a battery pack. Then I had a brilliant idea...get my wife to suggest I install it on her bicycle!
To do that I expressed some reservations about putting it on my bike, saying that I was afraid it would make my morning 10 mile ride to work too easy, blah, blah, and she fell right into my trap by volunteering to have it installed on her bike. I wasn't too surprised, since she takes about 20 minutes longer than I do to make the ride and always arrives a bit spent.So last night we spent a little quality time looking at battery packs. At first she was all like, "Hey, a 48v12ah SLA pack is only $200!" I said, "Yeah, you're right. Of course, those 4 batteries weigh 14 lbs apiece, but I'm sure I can fit that 60 lbs (with pack and rack...$50 more) over the rear wheel of your bike, Honey."
*long silence*
"How much is a LiFePo4 pack?"
"Says here $530 with rack, BMS, charger and locking aluminum quick disconnect battery pack. And it all weighs less than 20 lbs."
*lets fly drift with the current*
"Um, let me think about it overnight."
ZING!!!!
Or you can open up the controller and trace where they go--often the names silkscreened on the PCB next to the pads are descriptive enough to figure out what they are for.
in a bag, that I could easily disconnect and remove it so nobody would steal them. I built a switchbox on the positive side of the battery, and used that to turn main power on-off. I think you are looking for a switchbox that turns the logic side on/off - a lot of controllers do not have a switch, some controllers have a switch built into the case, and some (Kelly) have separate leads for an external switch. 
