Qulbix Raptor ebike + frame kit

Offroader said:
gloves would help but may be hot for the summer.
You know what's worse than hot hands in summer ? Trying to ride home with the raw meat on the palms of your hands that have been freshly ripped to shreds :p

The other thing is you can really ram your hand into something and I'm not sure how much gloves would help.
My old gloves had hard plastic inserts on the knuckles and back of the hand, my new ones are carbon. You have to be really moving to need more protection than these will offer and if you hit something that hard that bark busters (that's what we call them in Au, not sure if that translates elsewhere) do offer extra protection I would think you're probably going over the bars. Granted they would protect your brake levers a little but I find this is less of an issue on bikes using MTB brakes as they're not using the big long brake and clutch levers like dirt bikes do (which are more prone to being clipped and snapped off)
 
here are some examples of motorcycle hand guards without plastics that don't scream out: look Dirt Bike!

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4826/i/moose-racing-aluminum-handguards
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/35981/i/g2-ergonomics-competition-handguards
http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/motorcycle-control-and-brake/handguards-universal/moose-racing-motorcycle-aluminum-handguards

or you could use some long curved mountain bike bar ends as they offer some hand and brake lever protection..


Mammalian04 said:
What about just finding a more subtle metal brace for protection?

I'm sure i have seem minimalist guards before....
 
efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
here are some examples of motorcycle hand guards without plastics that don't scream out: look Dirt Bike!

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4826/i/moose-racing-aluminum-handguards
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/35981/i/g2-ergonomics-competition-handguards
http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/motorcycle-control-and-brake/handguards-universal/moose-racing-motorcycle-aluminum-handguards

or you could use some long curved mountain bike bar ends as they offer some hand and brake lever protection..


Mammalian04 said:
What about just finding a more subtle metal brace for protection?

I'm sure i have seem minimalist guards before....
Some old school bark busters there!
 
Decided to totally upgrade my chain system. Dropped chains were starting to get annoying. I also added a bash guard to protect the chain ring.

Put a lot of research into picking the best components.

32 Tooth Raceface Narrow Wide chainring.
Zee derailleur with a clutch for better chain retention.
Blackspire Bruiser bottom bracket bashguard.
Ti nitride coated chain.

This chain system is totally silent, like you don't have a chain. I can't see it ever dropping a chain again.

Bash guard just sits below and in front of the small 32 tooth chainring for maximum ground clearance and still protects the chain ring. I scrapped some teeth of my old chainring without a bashguard. It's also nice not hearing that metallic scraping sound when you hit a rock.

Gold chain for added bling. Plus I figure the Ti coating will help protect from rust as I don't maintain or oil my chains much as I hardly peddle.

32 tooth narrow wide chainring, holds the chain tighter on the chain ring so it doesn't fall off or move around. Since we don't have room on the raptor for a Chain guide (chain guide will hit the swingarm), this is pretty much the best option we have. Probably works just as good as a chain guide anyway if you have a good clutch derailleur.

Issues: Zee derailleur will have to be slightly modified. Where the cable normally bolts at the very end will have to be bent or it may rub your hub motor. This is easily done by putting it in a vice and bending the tip by hand. You could always bend it back. In the pic below I showed in red where to place it in a vice and where to bend.

Bashguard is held on by the torque of the bottom bracket cup only. Will it move or loosen my bottom bracket cups from constant impact? I don't know and I wish I had an ISCG'05 mount.

Nice brand new chain line system.
7nIduCf.jpg


Notice the bash guard right beneath the chain.
Lvx7Grb.jpg


Bashguard attaches by removing one of your spacers. I could have placed it closer to chain ring by removing that spacer but decided to keep it keep it closer to the frame for less leverage on the bottom bracket when hitting it on something.
dzueyIJ.jpg



Look at the Zee derailleur clearance because of where you tighten the cable.
This was an old picture, but I bent that out. Where I put the red lines is where I placed it in a vice, make sure to keep the bolt tight, and just bent it away. Grab right below where it attaches to the vice to bend and not the derailleur.
It may still rub until you tension the derailleur to your chain.
IDIT4tQ.jpg
 
snellemin said:
I use a chain guide on mine. Just a bottom roller on my 40T chain-ring.

That is true, you could use a bottom chain guide. I am not sure how effective it is vs having a top and bottom. The narrow wide chainring were made so you didn't need a chainguide.

I would rather have the top and bottom chain guide because I think they look really cool.
 
In my case it works, as the chain came off a few times before I installed it. I can fit a 42T chain ring, but the chain comes off from the top. But I have no space to add a top roller.
 
marcn said:
Nice photos Offloader. Clean chain setup. I like it.

Thanks, I'm still striving to make the perfect off-road ebike.

I forgot to add. Those bashguards that attach to the crank bolts, I personally wouldn't want to use them on a heavy torque raptor. When you slam on something the forces are going to go right through your crank and thin crank bolts.

The bottom bracket I figure is much better able to handle those forces. I'm using a saint bottom bracket which also has specifically longer threads on the drive side bottom bracket cups for bash guards.
 
Offroader said:
marcn said:
Nice photos Offloader. Clean chain setup. I like it.

Thanks, I'm still striving to make the perfect off-road ebike.

I forgot to add. Those bashguards that attach to the crank bolts, I personally wouldn't want to use them on a heavy torque raptor. When you slam on something the forces are going to go right through your crank and thin crank bolts.

The bottom bracket I figure is much better able to handle those forces. I'm using a saint bottom bracket which also has specifically longer threads on the drive side bottom bracket cups for bash guards.

New chain and sprocket combo look great. Sorry the chain failed on you. What happened?
 
Rix said:
Offroader said:
marcn said:
Nice photos Offloader. Clean chain setup. I like it.

Thanks, I'm still striving to make the perfect off-road ebike.

I forgot to add. Those bashguards that attach to the crank bolts, I personally wouldn't want to use them on a heavy torque raptor. When you slam on something the forces are going to go right through your crank and thin crank bolts.

The bottom bracket I figure is much better able to handle those forces. I'm using a saint bottom bracket which also has specifically longer threads on the drive side bottom bracket cups for bash guards.

New chain and sprocket combo look great. Sorry the chain failed on you. What happened?

It was failing slowly, the derailleur plastic wheels were torn apart. The chain would also fall off easily, however once I removed some chain links it was a lot better. It did work, but I just wanted to get something more solid with a smaller derailleur because my other one was really long. I wanted a smaller chainring with a bash guard also.

bitcom77 said:
yeah I couldn't fit the Zee derailleur with my crown motor just too much interference from that arm even with extra spacers

It would be so nice if it didn't have that arm. I'm thinking about just cutting it off. I want to see if I can fit a single speed tensioner before I do that.
 
Merlin said:
no need for a cut off.
just bend it as you need.
works well without any prob.

I was thinking about that, but didn't think it would bend easily. I'll have to try this.

Where did you actually bend it?
 
Hey guys, I know some of you have gotten creative with making axle spacers but cutting washers with a dremel. Is there anywhere to buy some quickly that are purpose built? Qulbix must have forgotten to include them in my second frame kit as they are no where to be found and I don't want to wait for them to be resent from Europe.

Any suggestions would be great!

Thanks.

EDIT: Sorry, I incorrectly blamed Qulbix! My bad. Spacers were supposed to come with the Cromotor and must have been lost somewhere along the way (shipping, wheel build, shipping, etc)
 
Ah hah! That must be it. The spacers were supposed to come with the motor but they must have been left out somewhere along the way (Greyborg, Voltriders, USPS hole in the box, etc).

Thanks! I will purchase some more from Zombiess!
 
Make sure you get the thin 1mm ones and the thick 3mm ones, both sizes as that helps greatly with spacing.
 
efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
here are some examples of motorcycle hand guards without plastics that don't scream out: look Dirt Bike!

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4826/i/moose-racing-aluminum-handguards
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/35981/i/g2-ergonomics-competition-handguards
http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/motorcycle-control-and-brake/handguards-universal/moose-racing-motorcycle-aluminum-handguards

or you could use some long curved mountain bike bar ends as they offer some hand and brake lever protection..


Mammalian04 said:
What about just finding a more subtle metal brace for protection?

I'm sure i have seem minimalist guards before....

I bought those a bit back and they are huge, heavy as hell, you will not like them I assure you. They are heavier than the whole handlebar stem break levers and CA put together!
 
Off Roader your chain and crank setup is almost like mine now lol. I used a titanium gold chain. Very light and quite. Same chain ring just the 42t version.
 

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ecruz said:
Off Roader your chain and crank setup is almost like mine now lol. I used a titanium gold chain. Very light and quite. Same chain ring just the 42t version.

A "titanium gold" chain is actually made out of steel, like every chain that's worth a damn. (Viking used to make Ti chains that cost a huge amount and wore out very quickly.) The gold finish is vapor-deposited titanium nitride, which adds wear resistance and reduces friction a bit, but the chain itself is steel.

A steel chain with a gold finish weighs the same as a steel chain with a brown finish, or a steel chain with a nickel plated finish.
 
Chalo said:
A steel chain with a gold finish weighs the same as a steel chain with a brown finish, or a steel chain with a nickel plated finish.

Yes, but the gold finish adds 7 hp and 8ft/lbs of torque. :)

I thought I had a line on a decent inexpensive white and black chain for the wife's white Raptor but they canceled my order. I know it is bling blingish but I can't help myself!!!
 
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