Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
I want to put a rear hub motor in 120mm wide horizontal track dropouts. I also want to pedal a single gear with a freewheel. that's available right?
singlespeed rear hub motor for 120mm spacing?
- Thread starter Hummina Shadeeba
- Start date
sleepy_tired
100 W
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2019
- Messages
- 185
https://bmsbattery.com/motor/631-16312-q100h-36v350w-rear-driving-ebike-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html
I _think_ that should work. It has a spacer that can be removed. Remove the spacer, grind it down if you need to. Don't own the motor and don't know for 100% sure. By default it's configured for 135mm drop outs.
It would likely be easiest to buy the bare motor, modify it to fit, and then have it laced up to a wheel locally. Because if you buy it pre-laced then it'll have to be redished to fit. And shipping costs a lot for a fully laced motor from that company.
I _think_ that should work. It has a spacer that can be removed. Remove the spacer, grind it down if you need to. Don't own the motor and don't know for 100% sure. By default it's configured for 135mm drop outs.
It would likely be easiest to buy the bare motor, modify it to fit, and then have it laced up to a wheel locally. Because if you buy it pre-laced then it'll have to be redished to fit. And shipping costs a lot for a fully laced motor from that company.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
I think ill get a more powerful 135mm spaced motor and maybe grind the ends or squeeze it and thanks for helping me see that will work. can use a common single speed conversion kit then.
Liking this kit
https://lunacycle.com/mac-motor-asi-high-performance-hub-kit/#trustspot-widget-wrapper
Liking this kit
https://lunacycle.com/mac-motor-asi-high-performance-hub-kit/#trustspot-widget-wrapper
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
Ordered it!
https://lunacycle.com/mac-motor-asi-high-performance-hub-kit/#trustspot-widget-wrapper
And their cool wolf pack clear battery 52v, all to go on that little 20” bike
If u have any advice on bending the 120mm frame to fit the 135 hub or if I’m better grinding the axle I’d like to hear
Also have no bottle cage mounting spots to attach the battery. Luna seemed to think just drilling and threading the frame tubing would be good enough! Seems sketchy. I was going to get some welded on and the rivet ones seem weak, no?
https://lunacycle.com/mac-motor-asi-high-performance-hub-kit/#trustspot-widget-wrapper
And their cool wolf pack clear battery 52v, all to go on that little 20” bike
If u have any advice on bending the 120mm frame to fit the 135 hub or if I’m better grinding the axle I’d like to hear
Also have no bottle cage mounting spots to attach the battery. Luna seemed to think just drilling and threading the frame tubing would be good enough! Seems sketchy. I was going to get some welded on and the rivet ones seem weak, no?
Hummina Shadeeba said:
I say cold set the frame. If you have no experience with such things, or if doing it yourself bothers you, have a bike shop take care of you. They have tools to widen the frame spacing, tools to check side-to-side alignment, and tools to bring the dropouts parallel. Seek out shops with some natural gray hair visible, and unfashionable bikes in evidence.
SlowCo
1 MW
Widening the dropout:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
And use (hose)clamps for attaching the battery holder to the frame.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
And use (hose)clamps for attaching the battery holder to the frame.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
I’ll get somewhere to cold set it as apposed to messing with the axle thanks
I’d rather make it look slick though. Can’t run a new shiny bike with those things. If u have another idea. As it is now will get some water bottle bosses (think they’re called) welded on for the battery. The esc has threaded holes which I don’t know what to do with either.
SlowCo said:
I’d rather make it look slick though. Can’t run a new shiny bike with those things. If u have another idea. As it is now will get some water bottle bosses (think they’re called) welded on for the battery. The esc has threaded holes which I don’t know what to do with either.
SlowCo
1 MW
john61ct said:
That's a great tool, thanks for the link!
Hummina Shadeeba said:
If you're cool with having to repaint the frame, that works.
Here's another option:
https://www.merlincycles.com/dmr-hinged-clamp-65637.html
The link lists 28.6mm and 31.8mm diameters, but they also come in 34.9mm.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
I’m gunna gamble with the riveted version. Looking around they seem pretty solid
Post pics when done
Post pics when done
sleepy_tired
100 W
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2019
- Messages
- 185
If the frame is aluminum then resizing to 135mm is ill-advised.
but if it's steel, go for it.
but if it's steel, go for it.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
Yes steel. Strangely think was Luna on the phone said carbon could be done a bit. Surprised.
I’m going to rivet to mount the frame to mount the battery and that seems ideal but wondering how to attach as nicely w the esc and it’s threaded holes. Bolted to the frame somehow.
https://lunacycle.com/asi-bac-800-controller-72v-version/
And I’ll waterproof/caulk everything n be done. If only can find an ideal connection for esc to the frame with those mounting holes
With the bike in the mail and unknowable I’d like to fit the battery n esc, in that order, going down the backside of the seat tube.
And there’s this as shown as backup plan. Pretty slick in itself and he’ll of a lot easier
I’m going to rivet to mount the frame to mount the battery and that seems ideal but wondering how to attach as nicely w the esc and it’s threaded holes. Bolted to the frame somehow.
https://lunacycle.com/asi-bac-800-controller-72v-version/
And I’ll waterproof/caulk everything n be done. If only can find an ideal connection for esc to the frame with those mounting holes
With the bike in the mail and unknowable I’d like to fit the battery n esc, in that order, going down the backside of the seat tube.
And there’s this as shown as backup plan. Pretty slick in itself and he’ll of a lot easier
The real big one will take 1/4-inch-diameter wire, as in clothes hanger gauge, and secure a wind genset mounted on a steel pipe to the top of a telephone pole on a cliff or hilltop, ready to withstand named storms.SlowCo said:
Very smooth appearance, nearly invisible, if the join/twist point is in the hidden spot.
A small shallow setscrew / grub screw will prevent any rotation, no need to actually drill any through hole.
Tiny notches using a taper file will secure the wires from slipping longitudinally.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
http://www.bikecalc.com/wheel_size_math
after finding the sram apex brakes don’t reach the wheel brake track and then realizing 20” wheel size means 1 of a possible 3, as u can see above, and the big wheel dish wanting an axle grinding besides a frame bending, and drilling and riveting, im discouraged and I have a nice old 90s steel Kona mtn bike in orange glitter and their nice steel fork, that’s a size 15 or 16”, I’m 5’8 so a nice similar: too small. a huge time saver and look forward to higher speed.
ill post pics of both
after finding the sram apex brakes don’t reach the wheel brake track and then realizing 20” wheel size means 1 of a possible 3, as u can see above, and the big wheel dish wanting an axle grinding besides a frame bending, and drilling and riveting, im discouraged and I have a nice old 90s steel Kona mtn bike in orange glitter and their nice steel fork, that’s a size 15 or 16”, I’m 5’8 so a nice similar: too small. a huge time saver and look forward to higher speed.
ill post pics of both
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
Yea I know there’s longer reach brakes but one of many things. Schwinn 20” size rims being smaller I wonder if a problem for the hub and I’d rather get the slightly bigger rims instead.
torn. The mini bike would be cool but the 26” is surely going to ride better
Do I really need a torque arm if my dropouts are horizontal? Maybe could even shim it to be tight.
torn. The mini bike would be cool but the 26” is surely going to ride better
Do I really need a torque arm if my dropouts are horizontal? Maybe could even shim it to be tight.
Hummina Shadeeba said:
Any Schwinn-specific rim sizes were gone for good by 1982 at the latest. There are only two 20" bicycle wheel sizes that are still widely available:
ISO 406 (20" x decimal, by far the most common, and most likely what you have)
ISO 451 (20 x 1-3/8" or 1-1/8", only used for little kids' BMX racing bikes, some recumbents, and a few folders)
Do not concern yourself with any other 20" bicycle wheel sizes. Your bike doesn't have them, and you can't buy 20" wheels in other than one of these two aforementioned diameters. Hub motor kit wheels that are available in 20" will only be ISO 406, no exceptions.
The tires on the minivelo will have a number like 32-406 printed on them, which is the tire width in millimeters followed by the ISO rim diameter.
Dropouts are often made from soft ductile steel, and can easily spread open when pried by a hub motor axle. At a minimum, I would use two tabbed washers with the tabs turned towards the closed end of the slot.
It's not a lot more trouble just to use a torque arm. For a hub with modest torque, a single arm on the solid end of the axle will do. The one on the hollow end is mostly an emergency backup anyway.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
thanks for the info!
i like the tabbed washers facing inside the dropouts and didnt know what they were about. got me looking for other longer tabbed washers. ARE THERE ANY OUT THERE?
ive been looking to make 451 wheels and I wonder why you say they always do the smaller 406 with motors? I thought there'd be some minimum length the spokes should be and theyd be doing the 451 size. I assume doing the 451 rim with the hub will be fine. fits my nice new brakes then.
any lacing pattern best for the motor? its 36h.
any recommended rivets for mounting the luna wolf battery on the downtube? would do 3 or 4 something steel. good idea or bad?
this bike will get a lot of comments especially after the change. i pushed it out from my house while waiting for cranks (which they forgot) and first person i walked it past, an 85 year old lady, she says nice bike! she cant ride anymore with her hip she said but told me she was 85. pretty awesome ill have to tell some old person to get off their ass and go ride till at least their hip breaks.
i like the tabbed washers facing inside the dropouts and didnt know what they were about. got me looking for other longer tabbed washers. ARE THERE ANY OUT THERE?
ive been looking to make 451 wheels and I wonder why you say they always do the smaller 406 with motors? I thought there'd be some minimum length the spokes should be and theyd be doing the 451 size. I assume doing the 451 rim with the hub will be fine. fits my nice new brakes then.
any lacing pattern best for the motor? its 36h.
any recommended rivets for mounting the luna wolf battery on the downtube? would do 3 or 4 something steel. good idea or bad?
this bike will get a lot of comments especially after the change. i pushed it out from my house while waiting for cranks (which they forgot) and first person i walked it past, an 85 year old lady, she says nice bike! she cant ride anymore with her hip she said but told me she was 85. pretty awesome ill have to tell some old person to get off their ass and go ride till at least their hip breaks.
Hummina Shadeeba said:
It's a hugely more popular size, with better tire and rim availability and size range. Everything for 406 is cheaper and easier to get than 451.
There's no reason you can't do that. Tires and rims will be fewer to choose from, more expensive, in a much smaller range of widths, and with mostly outdated designs. That's the case for any oddball rim size.
Keep in mind that if you use a rim to suit your skinny tire road bike brakes, you'll be limited to only skinny tires that fit inside the brake. That has an impact on ride quality, tire durability, and tolerance of less-than-smooth surfaces. If you use the common 406 size with longer reach brakes, you can use narrow or wide tires as you like, within the limits of the frame.
With 20" rims, I have only been able to use radial lacing. The insertion angle to the rim is too extreme otherwise. I've had no trouble with this so far.
You definitely want steel rivnuts and not aluminum. And you need to stay well away from the ends of the tubes where stresses are higher.
For my own bike, I'd most certainly use clamp-on frame bosses rather than rivnuts, because of the risk of initiating cracks at the drilled holes, or spinning the rivnuts when trying to remove the mounting screws later.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
Thanks again for all ur info.
I’ll do 4 rivets
Any other tabbed washers u could recommend that have longer tabs? The tabbed washers seem like they could be up to the job if longer and with more leverage.
https://www.leedsbikes.com/product/doublewide-motor-axle-torque-washers-set-of-2aeleeds-electric-bike/?utm_source=TPA%20On%20Google%20Shopping&utm_campaign=Smart%20Shopping&utm_medium=cpc&product_partition_id=813855286536&product_id=6792&device=m&loc_physical_ms=9031952&gclid=CjwKCAiAlO7uBRANEiwA_vXQ-4mDcMhR9uVc8QmC_ImzSd4G_SI91U-PO4-FGhg2yZDiZHa5pxkc0RoCn0YQAvD_BwE
I’ll do 4 rivets
Any other tabbed washers u could recommend that have longer tabs? The tabbed washers seem like they could be up to the job if longer and with more leverage.
https://www.leedsbikes.com/product/doublewide-motor-axle-torque-washers-set-of-2aeleeds-electric-bike/?utm_source=TPA%20On%20Google%20Shopping&utm_campaign=Smart%20Shopping&utm_medium=cpc&product_partition_id=813855286536&product_id=6792&device=m&loc_physical_ms=9031952&gclid=CjwKCAiAlO7uBRANEiwA_vXQ-4mDcMhR9uVc8QmC_ImzSd4G_SI91U-PO4-FGhg2yZDiZHa5pxkc0RoCn0YQAvD_BwE
How thick are your dropouts? If it's a steel frame, the tabbed washers probably won't provide much. You could get away without them is my guess.Hummina Shadeeba said:
Based on the Grin simulator, the 6T motor doesn't look like it has a huge amount of torque to deal with.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
The dropouts are 7mm thick and has windows cut out and also there’s the threaded hole going horizontally. My pics are too big and takes me ages to convert
its here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33033777448.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4djAfbTN
The tabbed washer is 3mm thick. I’d like to get two made 5mm thick. and instead of 5mm long tab do 15. I could cut a sheet and bend it but rather buy it. Why wouldn’t that work? or maybe just use four of these same ones I have?
no place around me wants to bend the frame and I don't want to either.
im going to hopefully find a machinist to grind the axle flats further along to fit this frame.
its here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33033777448.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4djAfbTN
The tabbed washer is 3mm thick. I’d like to get two made 5mm thick. and instead of 5mm long tab do 15. I could cut a sheet and bend it but rather buy it. Why wouldn’t that work? or maybe just use four of these same ones I have?
no place around me wants to bend the frame and I don't want to either.
im going to hopefully find a machinist to grind the axle flats further along to fit this frame.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
wow so you think it would be fine without even tabbed washers, just the flats of the axle in the dropout. well it comes with the tabbed washers already and making me think can get away with just those. or weld on a bit longer tab onto an already made washer.
but if this one guy who does machining around isn't going to flatten the axles Im done trying to make this and will move on to the easy to make mountain bike here.
but if this one guy who does machining around isn't going to flatten the axles Im done trying to make this and will move on to the easy to make mountain bike here.
