"1606" - Larger diameter 9c motor now available

[karma]

I finally got mine rolling today, and I think I might have something wrong... On 44.4V LiPo using a 9-fet Lyen controller, it seems ok on flat ground, but show it any upward incline at all (seriously...even just the ~2-3 degree incline by my pool) and it chokes. As in, it stops. It also makes weird noises at low speed, almost like stuttering, but I'm not sure. I checked the sensor wires as well as I could without taking it apart, and they seem to be fine. Phase wires get crazy hot though. Those are definitely getting replaced....seriously, who thought dinky little 14AWG (guestimate...I didn't think to measure them when I was replacing the connectors) was a good idea there?

Anyways, for anyone who has this motor and has been using it, is this expected behavior? For context, this was with no pedaling at all; I haven't put the pedals back on yet..or the brakes..or the chain..or the seat..yeah, it was a rather awkward ride..

Also, for anyone who has taken one of these apart, do the side panels screw off or pop/slide off once the screws are off? Those phase wires really need to go. I tried taking out the screws and pushing and prying at it, but I don't want to put too much force in the wrong direction for fear of breaking something.

no problem here. there's glue on the side covers. so removing them the first time is a pain. just be sure to put even pressure when removing them.
they bend and may crack. i had the same problems with the hall wires heating up. so anyone using this motor over spec should replace them.
from what your saying im also going to say your timing is off or phase angle. im using a modified 9 fet at 80volts 40amps with no problems.
than again i now have dual windings i never really gave it a good test before i modified it

[x88x]

are you absolutely sure you found the right phase/hall combination? Sounds to me like you might be running the wrong one; i have had situations where the wheel spins fine no load but then load it and it makes horrible noise and vibrates, the cause was the wrong hall phase combo.

I matched the colors. I was thinking that they matched on 9C and Infineon (Lyen 9 fet). Is that not correct?

no problem here. there's glue on the side covers. so removing them the first time is a pain. just be sure to put even pressure when removing them.
they bend and may crack.

Hmm, ok, I'll take a thick putty knife and a hammer to it; see what I can do. Eventually I want to do something similar to the dual-windings you did, and drop it in a 20" wheel on a BMX bike, but for now I want to leave it mostly stock. I actually haven't had the hall wires heat on my yet (probably because I haven't gotten it going very fast yet?); the problem has been the phase wires...they get crazy hot..but I can definitely see how those tiny hall wires would have problems. I'll be replacing both when I take it apart.

[x88x]

Just saw your video of your initial spinup, karma, and yeah, that's definitely not what I'm getting. I'm gonna do some more testing to see if maybe one of the sensor wires is cut.

[Andje]

if you havent checked the halls with a circuit yet you should do it. Get a 5v dc source, and then put that positive and negative to the red and black wires, then measure between the sensor wire and the black ground. Between red and black will be 5v. Between the ground and the sensor wire you should get 0 to 5v, and it should change as you spin the wheel. If you do not see this it is definite; replace halls or sensor wire is cut somewhere.

[Andje]

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=25652&p=371195&hilit=hall+tester#p371195

here's a page detailing halls testing.

[x88x]

Thanks, Andje! Turns out one of the hall power wires is broken. I'm gonna pull the motor off the bike and open it up now...see what I can find.

[x88x]

...strike that...after further testing, I've determined that all my hall sensors are just blown...

[Lessss]

I'd love this if it had mag style no spokes.
I'd love one that had the edge of the hub right at the rim!

[hillzofvalp]

I wonder if there is a method to making it more stealthy? Maybe something as simple as appropriately placed holes? Where is the sound coming from?

[x88x]

I wonder if there is a method to making it more stealthy? Maybe something as simple as appropriately placed holes? Where is the sound coming from?

Are you referring to the sounds mine was making? Because I'm pretty sure those will go away once I replace the hall sensors...which were all blown...

[hillzofvalp]

Oh.. I thought this motor was seen as not stealthy in general. I don't want to ride around campus with a sound that will quickly earn me a negative reputation. I really don't care that much if it isn't a serious sound

[x88x]

Oh.. I thought this motor was seen as not stealthy in general. I don't want to ride around campus with a sound that will quickly earn me a negative reputation. I really don't care that much if it isn't a serious sound

Here's Karma's video of the initial power up on his. Practically silent....I just had the bad luck to get one with three blown halls.

[hillzofvalp]

I see that. Thanks..

Can someone reiterate what I will need to do to rewire it, with both an adapter or straight splice job and also redoing the wires. I'm guessing I'll be safe at 14s M1 pack with lyen's 12FET extreme edition controller.. willing to take input. Got a front hub

[dozentrio]

I got one of these. Problem with the spokes. They creak loudly and annoyingly even after a professional wheel truing. Well, the trued wheel ran well for about a week, then the creaking began. Any suggestions on lacing the wheel to rim better? Would a better rim help? I know there's not much experience out there with these but maybe someone knows something...

[x88x]

I can't really speak from experience on lacing spokes (having never done it), but looking at the spokes on mine, it looks like if the points on the wheel where the spokes connect were spaced out from the centerline they would have less stress on them.

[MadRhino]

..Problem with the spokes. They creak loudly and annoyingly even after a professional wheel truing. Well, the trued wheel ran well for about a week, then the creaking began...

One week between wheel trueing jobs, is about my average with a 5304 laced 12ga in a 26in rim.
That is with fast trail riding every day, sometime the wheel last longer, but sometimes it needs trueing after only one day of ride. In any case, it needs to be trued very tight to have any chance to last. I have one laced alternate with outside spokes slightly bent at the flange, and the other with all the spokes inside, both single cross. So far, no difference in maintenance but the first has much more mileage done to date.

Check your wheel every day, learn to true it yourself, and keep it tight at all times.

[dozentrio]

Ok, thanks for the tip!

By the way everyone, I happened to run into MadRhino completely by chance in Montreal when I noticed a serious downhill bike with a hub motor on it in the park. Naturally, I had to go over and talk to my fellow e-biker, and it turns out he is also on endless-sphere! What are the chances eh? He has an amazing bike. Suspension is soooo plush, and the Clyte he has is super efficient. Plenty of torque/speed and only 400 watts draw when I rode it.

[MadRhino]

Ah, that was you! Hi there, I couldn't remember your nick.

You had very little taste of the power and speed that it is capable of. A small turn on the grass in the park doesn't give an idea of the full throttle, but I guess that was enough for an E-biker to realize the potential power under him.

Here's a short vid of another fellow biker who tried the same bike at the same place, a little harder on the throttle.