Torque Arm City

OK Men, I'm installing a brand new Crystalyte 5304 rear on a new Montague = fun but for some bits. Doug gave me a torque arm that is very nice 1/8" stainless but the elongated hole is 40 thousanths too short to fit the 1/2" axle. So I must have it machined a bit. As long as I'm going there I started thnking -- I know, a dangerous habit, especially in my case.
My thinking -- The world famous Devin made a comment that is unique among torque arm discussions. Sir Devin uttered the very words "the dropouts should be round to allow the axle to spin so the torque arm takes 100% of the torque." I think this makes a lot of sense -- especially since
my plans for this bike are to have two Point One 36v packs and a switching circuit that can go from 36 v to 72v. I realize that if I were to drill out the rear dropouts to 1/2" I may ruin the frame for
'normal' bicycle use. However I'm thinkin that if the frame were to go back to pedal power I could place a small tube over the quick release to fill the slack. Also, like the rest of this rowdy bunch of nonconformists I am rather fanatically committed this project and don't forsee myself going back to pedal power.
So I am requesting your collective feedback about drilling out the rear dropouts to 1/2" to equal the hub axle O.D. and then apply the torque arm.
I also posess a stamped steel Clyte(?) torque arm that is not aimed at the frame stays at all but could be cut off and then simply screwed to the several tapped holes on the outside of the Montague dropout plate. ?I think a 'torque plate' like this also makes a lot of
sense. Ideas men? All thoughts appreciated.?Al ?M750X ?Embrionic Clyte

Wouldn't bore out the drop outs.
1) Any crack or weakness produced could migrate.
2) If the torque arm is sufficiently strong and stiff, won't it prevent the axle from twisting enough to damage the dropouts anyway? And if it's not, then why bother with the torque arm at all?
3)Because snug dropouts prevent front-to-rear movement and vibration of the axle, rounding the dropouts could lead to additional and unnecessary strain at the point(s) where the torque arm attaches to the frame.

xyster,
1) Do you have a torque arm?
2)If so what kind?
3)How many miles do you think you have on that rear hub & frame?
4)how much of that was @ 72V?

Thanks,
Al

xyster,
1) Do you have a torque arm?

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No. The 5304 is on the rear. I check for cracks in the aluminum or other signs of imminent failure every few weeks. So far no problems.

3)How many miles do you think you have on that rear hub & frame?

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850 miles.

4)how much of that was @ 72V?

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About half.