John in CR wrote:Mighty Volt,
Excellent. Run the factory controller in stock form before modding it for higher power, so you can get a baseline performance. Be sure to include actively ventilating it in your mods. That should enable you up to fun levels, though not eye popping with those fets. 60V nominal if the caps are up to it, and double the current by coppering half the shunt length should be fun. I can't wait to see how you use it.
After blowing SuperV's big controller I was forced to do an inventory of blown controllers and find one I thought I could repair myself to put on my cargo bike, freeing up that 24fet4100 brick to install on SuperV. Heat damage, other than blown fets accounted for almost half of the failures, and 3 out of 5 of the modded factory controllers. Mostly it was melted phase wires that either shorted to each other or to caps. From now on I will ventilate any controller I take to higher power, including my one remaining 24fet that I'm going to dial up to 150A battery side in gradual increments.
Blown controllers has been the achilles heel of just about everyone's high power pursuits, but the only ventilated controller I've blown was my last remaining factory controller that I was pushing past triple the factory settings, and that occurred on the first hill I encountered after forgetting to turn the fan on. Ventilation works well, and we've been pushing a 4310 based controller at 80A for months as proof, though we really should get in there and beef up the primary wires and traces to minimize unnecessary heat, since the air blowing out of that controller is quite warm.
I successfully repaired one of my factory controllers, YAY, so I'm moving it to my daily rider which isn't fun anymore thanks to the Sheriff. It's will still get 5kw via the new and improved ventilated stock controllers. The 24fet will get dual blowers, doubled up wiring, and thickened traces. It's been dependable at 100A, so with mods, 150A should be no problemo.
I'll do a post soon about ventilated controllers.
John in CR wrote:Grinding action, just wrong wiring combo I hope. Until you are certain about correct wiring, only try small throttle pulses.
Does the axle turn with grinding, or only cogging resistance?
Don't you have a working ebike to just borrow the throttle from?
How are you doing a run test, clamping axle flats in a vise with some flat stock protecting the axle from the vise's teeth? Be careful, it ain't no puny ebike motor.
Tires, I would think so, but I'm no expert.
The Mighty Volt wrote:Like a Lyen, it has a red wire which needs wiring to the controller positive.
Harold in CR wrote:$250.00 all in, EH ??? That include shipping and other Govt fees ??? Is yours the 72V model ??
Looks like I need to sell some more wood.