9C Scooter motor Conversion To Bicycle

[etard]

Edit:
I revised the name of thread to reflect the path this inquiry has taken, I have turned a scooter hub motor into an ebike motor with a chopped up BMX hub.

I picked up this hub motor today for $30 with controller. I haven't gotten a chance to do much testing or poking around, but everything looks good so far. I don't know exactly what the person was trying to build, maybe a two wheel drive scooter or something. The controller has a very thick base that the FET's are screwed to. Since I got it cheap I may try to mod it for 72 volt operation and build it onto a steel frame DJ bike I have sitting around with widened extended swingarm ala John in CR clamping style. Here are some pics, any info would be very helpful. I have scoured google up to 10 pages and found NOTHING. I searched here with even less results. WTH is it????!!!!

[wasp]

48v 1500w nice find for 30 bucks...i'll give you 40

[etard]

48v 1500w nice find for 30 bucks...i'll give you 40

Sold! $200 shipping, that's $240 pm me for paypal info.

[wasp]

48v 1500w nice find for 30 bucks...i'll give you 40

Sold! $200 shipping, that's $240 pm me for paypal info.

damn shipping charges...
i remember see this motor or a red 9c somewhere during my surfing

[John in CR]

If the controller and motor work $240 is a bargain.

[etard]

I was just messing with Wasp, I already have plans to build this into a commuting monster. I did the phase tests as you suggested John, and it acted exactly as you described it would! So as long as the hall sensors are working proper, the motor is a go! I might even have a Hall throttle in the Ebike junkyard here, so more testing to come. I even have some ideas on how to do clamping swingarms with rear pegs for passenger transport. More pics to come!

[John in CR]

Be sure to make those pegs foldable, so you don't clip your achilles moving the bike around or other bump into them while off the bike.

[etard]

OK I took some measurements to see what it would take to get a cassette or freewheel mounted onto the axle or cover.

Round axle directly out of the side cover: 19.5 mm
Axle flat: 11.9 mm
axle outside threads: 16.4 mm

Here are some pics I took of how I would like to setup this beast:



This pic shows the measurements I took. That drum brake flange will have to be faced off in the lathe. I wonder if the small sized BMX freewheel can be mounted on that thicker part of the axle??



Yeah!! What do you think??





Only need about 4" extension to fit that big tire in the dropouts.




Plenty of room for batteries and controller there!





Dropouts, are they up to the task?? It's a Cromoly frame!!

[John in CR]

I wish I could find a steel frame like that. Those dropouts look thick enough to drill and tap directly for clamping dropouts on an unmodded factory frame.

[etard]

John,
I would love to build up this frame without permanent welds onto the 1/4" dropouts. Do you think there is enough meat there to just drill and tap the extensions on?

I also figured out how I will mount the pedal drive side. I'll get a freewheel adapter that recumpence makes for shaft mounting freewheels and bore it out to 19.5 mm ( the dimension of shaft on hub) then I will either weld that to the axle or use some sort of roll pin to keep it in place. I have an aluminum one but steel would be better.

Also, just saw another frame like mine all built up for $350, pm me if you are interested John.

[LI-ghtcycle]

John,
I would love to build up this frame without permanent welds onto the 1/4" dropouts. Do you think there is enough meat there to just drill and tap the extensions on?

I also figured out how I will mount the pedal drive side. I'll get a freewheel adapter that recumpence makes for shaft mounting freewheels and bore it out to 19.5 mm ( the dimension of shaft on hub) then I will either weld that to the axle or use some sort of roll pin to keep it in place. I have an aluminum one but steel would be better.

Also, just saw another frame like mine all built up for $350, pm me if you are interested John.

Holy cow!

That's a perfect motor for a mid drive!! How large is the diameter of the hub motor, and does the rim bolt off?

Any and all info you can pass on about the brand of scooter that came off of would be greatly appreciated!

Man, that is one screaming deal for $30!! NICE score!!

[John in CR]

Etard,
The freewheel goes on the motor cover. It spins. The axles hopefully never does. For mine I hacked up rear hubs made of AL. Some I welded directly to the motor cover with the cover off of the motor and bearing removed. Others I welded to a ring of 1/4" AL, which I attached to the cover. The one on my daily rider I just roughed up that ring and the motor cover and epoxied it on without removing the cover. The other we put a few welds around the perimeter of the ring, which we also did with the motor cover on the motor. The main thing is to make sure the freewheel ends up centered and on a plane parallel with the motor.

[etard]

Ahhhhhh, yes, I momentarily forgot how a hub motor worked. Well, now I am thinking that the easiest solution may just be one that I have wanted all along. Screwing a fixed sprocket onto that drum brake lip or what's left of it after I face it down a bit. And then getting a set of freewheeling cranks for the front. Although, now I'm thinking it might be less than ideal having that chain always moving with the motor. A better solution may be to weld a BB cup onto that sprocket on the hub and then I could just screw a freewheel onto that. I'll figure something out...

[wineboyrider]

Figure a way to put pedals on that sucker and you got your self a death race machine!

[John in CR]

If you ever want to go to extreme power, I'd recommend keep at least some of that drum brake housing. With an easy to make stationary cover it gives you an easy route to put blowers and push massive amounts of air through the motor. The only reason I haven't done that yet is that I don't have a good enough controller to really heat my motors up.

More important than figuring out pedals, is figuring out brakes for the rear. Regardless of what anyone says, unless you at least have regen on the rear, you just can't go with only front brakes.

[etard]

Wineboy!! How goes it? I will be interested to see what kind of handling this setup accomplishes. I definately plan on making it next year for the DR, so plan on it!

Li,
The hub is fairly wide and heavy and the rim is welded to the motor so mid drive would be out of the question. I don't really see the point with such a large motor anyway. I will keep you guys posted as I get further into testing.

John,
I'm planning on drilling holes in the left cover for disc brake mounting. The biggest problem I see with this is the size of the cover might interfere with the caliper. I may look into regen because of this.

[LI-ghtcycle]

Wineboy!! How goes it? I will be interested to see what kind of handling this setup accomplishes. I definately plan on making it next year for the DR, so plan on it!

Li,
The hub is fairly wide and heavy and the rim is welded to the motor so mid drive would be out of the question. I don't really see the point with such a large motor anyway. I will keep you guys posted as I get further into testing.

John,
I'm planning on drilling holes in the left cover for disc brake mounting. The biggest problem I see with this is the size of the cover might interfere with the caliper. I may look into regen because of this.

Wide is no problem, diameter might be, from the pictures it would seem that it would be smaller diameter than a standard 9c, but I can't really tell from the pic, just curious if it where smaller diameter since that is what I have been searching for, something with a similar characteristics to the standard 9c hub for over-all bullet proof performance, but in a wider and smaller diameter.

The fact that it is 1500W just means it has more copper to better dissipate heat and I'm sure it makes better low end torque. What size tires does it use? 16 inch?

[etard]

It probably ends up being 16" outside but I believe it is a 10" tire. If I had to guess, I would say the dropout measurement where it begins to have threads is 15 or 16 cm. It's pretty freakin wide, You must be putting it somewhere outside of the pedal stroke. Come to think of it, it's probably wider than that...

Here's my crazy idea for fitting a single speed on this motor:

Take right right cover off, chuck it up on the lathe, groove the cover at the location and diameter of el cheapo hub, cut el cheapo hub threaded for single speed in half ( or smaller), chuck el cheapo hub in lathe and face off cut end, weld single speed hub onto motor cover. This way I am assured to get the thing centered and it should add a little strength.

[wineboyrider]

etard wrote:Wineboy!! How goes it? I will be interested to see what kind of handling this setup accomplishes. I definately plan on making it next year for the DR, so plan on it!

Great Dave (right?) I hope I can make it to the DR. I'll be watching this thread that hub motor can probably take 4-5 kw easy!

[liveforphysics]

Looks like a great motor!

[etard]

So, I finally opened it up and everything looks great! Here are some Pics:




You can see the halls here



Same exact size as an 8" rotor







This gives you an idea of how I am going to mount the freewheel. After looking at the size of things, I decided it best to just tap the motor cover and screw this on over the axle seal using the spoke flanges I hope 6 or 8 of them will hold. I will most likely machine a small lip on the motor cover for the cut off hub to nest on. Anybody want the other half of this hub?




The red black and green are connected to a long cable that looks much like a throttle cable, and if I am correct, only three wires means it not a Hall effect throttle, so I can use my Magura! Any help here would be much appreciated.

[John in CR]

Other than those with extras like battery gauge, keyswitch, etc, every hall throttle I've seen has 3 wires, +5V ground and signal.

Motor looks good. I didn't notice alignment marks for the cover. Always put marks on covers and rotors before removing, so you know which holes to line up. In this instance you can probably match it up using that rust spot.

Motor looks good. I'd upgrade those phase wires before getting crazy with the current.

[RallySTX]

Nice score Etard, you still wanna sell them Nanotechs? Good luck with that 9C.
Brian L.

[number1cruncher]

Is it me or does your 9C look like this motor?

Looks like 9c

redmotor.jpg (57.3 KiB) Viewed 414 times

It was posted by Gregory in this thread: http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=27719

For $30, you did very well my friend. I hope you are able to build a beast with it. That frame is a good start.

[etard]

Number1,
My brother used to work in Alexendria at the Chart House, cool town!

Funny story, I saw it on CL and after bargaining the guy down on the phone from $40, I hopped on my little 225cc motorcycle to pick it up thinking it was a 500w scooter motor, when I got there I realized it was this heavy 1500w motor and was glad I had brought plenty of straps as I strapped it on the back of the seat! To top it off he had a 500w scooter motor that I threw in my backpack! I felt like somebody from a third world country porting all that shit home, but the little motorbike didn't skip a beat and I sure was glad I did it! I try to take my motorcycle on every CL run I can cuz there's nothing worse than spending $20 in gas for some piece of crap that was misrepresented online, if you only spend $5 it's easier to walk away from.