disadvantage wrote:I don't think the side of the screw will be able to withstand the motor torque. I think what will happen is: the side of the screw will get mangled, and then you'll have a hard time pulling it out to fix the mess. The screw will squeeze the axle on the round part, but that part is threaded, so there won't be much friction to hold the axle.
You're right D, that's also what I imagined. I was hoping to find a very strong screw that can take a lot of torque to grip the axle enough so that the axle doesn't slip and put side pressure on the screw. The arm and axle will be nearly press fit so I hope that helps the grip.
The blocking element is sort of a "plan B". The last resort. If plan B fails and the axle bends the screw, I don't have a plan to remove the arm from the axle without having to cut the arm grip! Good point, D. Thanks!
disadvantage wrote:I can't understand the purpose of the threaded L tab; is it to provide two-way holding for regeneration torque?
As for the L tab, since the arm will be located between the hub and the fork (leg?) that tab is used to reach around from the arm to the front surface of the fork so it's only for motive torque. EDIT:The tab will be threaded for the tensioner screw adjustment to lock that adjustment with the nut. Did I make sense? If not, I'll try to draw a top view.
EDIT: whoa! In the picture, my L tab is facing the wrong direction! Sorry for the confusion! This is what happens when PC drawing, BBQing, and drinking at the same time.
disadvantage wrote:I didn't know that this torque arm was for the front, is that correct? And you want to hide it behind the bike frame?
Yes, this Torque Arm is for the fork, and should be more or less the same for the rear, but on the wired side.
disadvantage wrote:That makes it more difficult to design.
True that but, to me, the effort of trying to keep my bike looking clean will be worth it.
Cheers for the input! Keep em coming!