Dee Jays Giant Revive projects

[Dee Jay]

Neodymium magnets are $ooo money...

3.2mm dia.

For my rotary charger switch, in the werks.

J

[Dee Jay]

docnjoj,

It's an old model bike and haven't seen any newer versions so I'm assuming they'd been discontinued. People that use these bikes don't travel very far with them, nor very fast, so other than the belts being dry rotted from being parked outdoors, they should be in really good condition. New original belts should still be available. Other than that, no details to tell until I get my hands on one and taken apart. *rubbing hands* I'm curious to know how much power they can handle so I'll be pushing its limits.

I'd just been seeing it parked in the same spot for a while now but never seriously thought about getting one until last week. Behind the bike is the designated trash pick-up area. The owner might've left the bike there hoping it would be picked for free. I'd be willing to buy them if in good condition if had to...

I will actively be looking for these hubs to sell to those of you interested. Or I may use them to convert Revives to sell here.

J

[docnjoj]

I believe that is the Sanyo-Rabbittool motor that ran quite well and silently. Yes belts are availible. Contact me off line if U desire to sell the motor only!
otherDoc

[Dee Jay]

Yes belts are availible. Contact me off line if U desire to sell the motor only!
otherDoc

Sure thing, docnjoj! I wonder what the shipping would be to Alabamy . . .

Motor/Gear Hub only, of course . . .the bikes themselves are disposable and get no love.

Are you planing on trying to use the original controls or are you gutting it and use another controller and motor?

will let you know when I find more.

J

[Dee Jay]

First let me start by saying that my DC9000 charging system failed. Yup, my last DC9360 BMS died and I'm back to charging individual cells with my power supply. I have 45 cells, for cry I ! So my DCR had been down for about a month now.. I took the pack and the *two motors off and had been muscling my son on the POR "Plain Old Revive" *This was why I borrowed my wife's wheels with Big Apples and I'm liking them, save for the reflective strips... that and I was too lazy to swap tires. Her Revive has the stock rims and tires now which are pretty worthless but she's not in condition to ride bicycles for a while anyway... but as soon as she is, I promised to get her a new set of Big Apples.

Anyway, I'm now forced to continue working on my Rotary Charger which had been a slow process due lack of precision drilling and the brittle plexiglass discs. And also I had no solution to trigger the solenoid.... Until Now! woo woo!

During the Rotary Charger's incubation... I grew a wild hair up my ass one night. I figured "hell, since the motors are off the bike, it would be a good time to experiment with them" so I decided to go light with my DCR by doing away with my 4011 motor and use the 408 in the rear where the drop-outs are beefier and somewhat reinforced by the derailer mount because I was concerned running the 408 on the fork with no torque arms. And while I was at it, I might as well consider drilling holes on the aluminum part of the armature for water cooling copper tubes and install the temp sensor.

So how was I to pull this off?? TO USE THE 408 AT THE REAR?? This was where a wild idea kicked in... after some deep thought, I realized the armature of 4011 and 408 are the same,

the only differences were their axles and winding counts. OF COURSE! It would be as simple as swapping axles and installing the 408 in the 4011 hub! Farkin' genius, right? Well, everything was fine dandy until I used a puller to push the 4011's axle and to pop the side cover on the wired side. I cracked the spoke flange!

Immediately, I ran to the toilet because I *just about* SHAT in my pants (like William Shattner)! After wiping and changing my shorts I broke out the Ruby slippers closed my eyes, clicked my heals and tried to wake my self up! That didn't work. I was screwed. I'm no longer The Bomb.

After a few days of grieving, I came up with another wild idea... how about using the 408 armature and the 408 hub casing BUT with the 4011 side covers! Urethra! They actually fit!

Except for the screw holes, which means I'll need to drill and tap new holes on the 408 hub. Should be easy... for now, I need to concentrate my energies to the Rotary Charger.. but I'm too obsessed with the making an AlterMotor!

Oh! and one other problem... the 408 axle is rusted. My puller trick worked to push out the 4011 axle but not the 408.

I found a machine shop run by one guy, and let me tell ya, he's got machines. I asked him if he can push the 408 axle out for a 10 bucks or 20... I was desperate, and he dropped what he was doing for little ol me! At first he tried to use a rubber mallet but I explained how futile that will be and asked him to use his hydraulic press and a steel tube combo. And so he tried, BUT HE COULD NOT DO IT! I offered him 10 bucks but he refuse since he wasn't able to help me... great guy! I got his business card with the intention of trying again after applying heat on the axle with a propane torch. Until then, I'm SOL.

FYI: after closely examining the two motors, I discovered that the only reason for dishing the 4011 to the wired side was due to beefier design of the 4011 side covers. Weird...

I have other news on my 4011 but will save it for another post

TTFN

J

[pwbset]

I have other news on my 4011 but will save it for another post

Talk about leavin' me hangin' there!

[docnjoj]

Thats some horror story DJ. I tried way back on a WE 409 to pop the covers like that and BANG, I popped the center out of the cover. Seems U gotta remove the screws first! My machinist welder fixed it and its still in use. I dont use wheel pullers on those motors any more, just my machinists 12 ton press and metal support plates for the bearings. Works fine!
otherDoc

[Dee Jay]

Talk about leavin' me hangin' there!

Gent-le-men... Didn't mean to leave you hangin' ha ha! That last thing I wrote was just a Note-to-self because it's very important to pass on this last bit of fiasco... this melee... ggrrrr The 4011 continued...

I believe that the flange had weakened after a year and half of use so it shouldn't be a surprise that it failed. That motor took some abuse from:

-hard spokes
-in radial pattern
-hopping off curbs
-with hard BMX tire
-supporting 90% of the weight (if not more)

As for the the 408 axle, as I mentioned, it is rusted and stuck. The way my tofu works is: I should not to take a chance destroying the 408 because it works just fine. But I need a rear motor because I should not run the 408 on the fork, and I'm not ready to take on my torque arm project... So what does a guy who grew a few wild hairs up his bum do? Grow more wild hair, sure... Let's subtract windings from the 4011 and turn it into a 408, Bob's your uncle! Even though I wasn't sure if it was as easy as unwinding 3 windings off each pole(?), I had to TRY! Worse case would be having to re-wind the entire armature and I was willing to learn. I am down as fnck! I had no intention of using the 4011 anyway and it would just end up in a box (actually, it was intended to go on my wife's Revive but she thinks it's a bit heavy...) Add to the fact that I'm lolly-gagging on my Rotary Charger and still need to order a 20amp power supply... I'll have quite some time till I can charge my packs fast enough for daily use.

So there I was, trying to unwind my 4011 from the very end of each phase wire and quickly found that I'd have to unwind the entire 11 windings of one pole/whatever before I can get to the next phase winding.. ho ho ho, mary xmas! Well now I know how it's wound.

No worries... da brotha's gonna work it out.. da--da--da--brotha's gonna work it out..

yeah those were unfortunate turn of events, one after another... they say bad luck comes in threes, I think I'm up to four so I felt I'm owed a biggun... woo hoo!

[Dee Jay]

Thats some horror story DJ. I tried way back on a WE 409 to pop the covers like that and BANG, I popped the center out of the cover. Seems U gotta remove the screws first! My machinist welder fixed it and its still in use. I dont use wheel pullers on those motors any more, just my machinists 12 ton press and metal support plates for the bearings. Works fine!
otherDoc

you must've kicked yourself hard for that one... good to know you were able to have it fixed!

J

[Dee Jay]

My Rotary Charger is coming along...

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The plexiglass sheet was brittle and I didn't have a way to secure it while drilling holes with my drill press. I had to hold the sheet down with my left hand while pressing the drill with my right... but as soon as I drilled through the other side the drill bit got caught on the rough edges and pulled the sheet up and CRACK! I tried to soften the sheet by applying heat with a hairdryer but it didn't work. Most holes didn't crack, but just when I got into the groove of things, it cracked . I failed three times and wasted over ten bucks worth of material and train fare to the DIY shop. After the third failure, I was frustrated and felt like giving it up until I can come up with a better material to work with, but I had two more pairs of discs and squares so I continued on one more time and succeeded. I had to drill 32 holes and it took a lot of concentration to ease the drill down then back off. It stressed me out when it cracked!

Anyway, I won this battle.. tra la la...

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Originally, I wanted holes for 30 cells in series (31 holes) but I changed the plan to charging 15 cells in series paralleled with another pack, so that's 16 holes x 2 opposite of each other. Only after succeeding did I realize that I could've just drilled 16 holes (instead of 32) and went parallel by wires, doh! Oh well, next version. There's always room for improvement.

Up coming challenges:
- carefully applying super glue to positively secure the neos in their holes without spilling glue onto the electrically conducting surface. (Yes, the magnets themselves are the electrical contacts) I'm aware of possible heat issues and will be using a cooling fan to cool the everything inside a plexiglass box, including the power supply.

- find a way to connect power wires behind the magnet tabs.

Don't know when some good ideas will be beamed down to me from the spaceship so for now I'll do what I can:

- fab copper traces

- cut ratchet teeth on the disc, this time with a hot-blade soldering iron bit, (filing teeth on plexiglass ain't easy)

Oh and what's this? Is it a PWM speed controller kit for DC brushed motor We we we!

Stay Chuned.

J

[Dee Jay]

Well, as it turned out, I didn't swipe the scooter fork after all. Someone beat me to it! Once I found out, I swooped down for the horn, LULZ!

J

[Dee Jay]

Lots interesting things going on around here! Most notable being Link's copper cooling tube project and a freebie kit! As well as Matt's modular gearbox! And other pioneering efforts too many to list. Been too lazy to post comments lately but hats-off to you gentlemen that are shakin' and bakin'. Nice pumpkins there, EMF!

I've been doing a bunch of maintenance on my SCR. Yup, Single Crystalyte Revive! I am back in action. I got the town chasing after me again, I got the lycras hating on me again, shaking their fist at me as I sail past. JK It's fun stirring sh!t up in this sleepy little town. Rattle some cages..

A list of maintenance performed:

-Drink holder was ready to fall apart. Reinforced with 2 more screws, (I used only one) Now it's solid.

-Found a better way to tighten up the wire guts under the frame

-Cleaned the packing tape adhesive gunk off the frame with an enzyme type parts cleaner, to take the frump factor down a notch. Might've dulled the glossy finish though..

-Cleaned gunky chain

-Cleaned gunky cassette

-Adjusted derailleur to accept the 8th gear (Revive's original lowest gear)

-Cleaned rust off the 408's screw holes with a tap and magnet

-Used silicone adhesive to seal 408 covers

-Loctite all hub screws

-Used heat shrink tubing to hide the ammeter shunt a little better, take the frump factor down another notch.

-After installing an analog ammeter on my CCCV power supply, I found that charging a cell was sometimes too slow due to bad connections. I had to jiggle the PS pos/neg connector pins and watched the ammeter needle shoot up where it should be, at around 3.5 - 4 amps / when starting from 3.27v charging up to 3.63v. Loose connections were showing up as low as 1 amp! A giant THANKS to "tailwind" for giving me the power characteristics of these power supplies! These PS works better than I thought! *

-The M1 pack installed inside the frame got disconnected at the last cell during a rough ride! I pulled the entire pack out of the frame. It's a good time to redo the charging harness, some of which shorted out and heated up due to my own carelessness. I'm now wondering if I should just rebuild this pack into one of my new enclosures and just keep the Journey Kit Quick Release battery enclosure for awhile longer.

-Installed the front Big Apple on the 408/alloy rim for the first time. Wow, what a big difference in comfort and efficiency. I actually save energy, electrical and physical energy, with shock absorbing tires! And with less rolling resistance, it's like drop of water rolling off a duck's back. I highly recommend Big Apples if you ride in rough pavement like Tokyo streets.

-Lost my love handles and beer gut by riding without electric power for over 3 months. Gained it back again in a matter of weeks after reinstalling the 408. It was a pleasure riding without power in cool autumn weather. But you won't catch me riding without power in Tokyo's summer heat!

-The best part of my maintenance was installing a 48v throttle. I found that the 48v Throttle yellow LED comes on at around 2.80v/cell (42 volts). All I have to do now is use that LED to activate a relay to cut the throttle at LVC. A Ghetto LVC! Killing M1 cells will be one less thing to worry about.


TO DO LIST:

-Need to fab those dreaded torque arms for some peace of mind!

-Need to fab a homemade Battery Switch, allowing to choose Schottky Diode Two Pack parallel, or Single Pack A, or Single Pack B, or OFF/Charging. I will incorporate the schottky diode and a 20 amp fuse inside this switch box. I may even find a way to stash the bulky ammeter shunt inside. APP will still be used.

-Need to fab APP contacts. I have a handful of housings but I'm fresh out of contacts. Too cheap to buy them so I thought I'd try my hand at fabbing them from sheet copper.

-*I will be using the 20 amp version of my power supply to power an electromagnet inline with the positive wire. ~Por Qua?~ you ask in your best French Canadia? *chuckle* Canadia... An electro magnet to trigger the reedswitch/relay/solenoid/rotarycharger, of course! Whilst charging one or two cells with 10 amps or less, 10 amps or more will power the electromagnet. The electromagnet will keep the reed switch normally closed thus keeping the relay open. When the amps descend to a certain point (will show 0 amps on the ammeter, the electromagnet will release the reedswitch and close the relay, powering the solenoid. ~viola~ switch jumps to the next cell! I hope. We'll see.

-Need to find Nickle Epoxy to bond charging harness to the magnets as well as electrically conduct them. I could probably whip up my own by grinding a five cents coin! Nah...

-Need to order some viagra from "Horace Hubbard", I'm fresh out. I find junk email so irresistible!

Happy Friday!


J

Aka DJ Laze (Loneozner)

[Sacman]

J,

Nice to see you're back up and riding again after your cracked hub motor troubles. You got any trimphant tunage to celebrate that you're out terrorizing the Tokyo streets again? You've been pretty quiet lately and I was beginning to wonder what happened. If I remember right you were changing the windings on the 411 motor. How did that turn out?

By some fluke bad luck, my 408 casing cracked on me too. The threaded collar where the freewheel screws onto crack for no reason I could think of other than poor Crystalyte quality control. I thought I was up shit creek when I found out my vendor wasn't going to warranty the cracked side cover. But Ypedal had some spare 408 side covers and sent me a few. I thought I was home free but those covers didn't fit and required significant modification/machining to work. <sigh> You gotta luv this Crystalyte quality control.

[Dee Jay]

Sacman, good to hear from too. Sorry for leaving you hanging on that PM. I meant to get back to you but kept forgetting.

Yeah, I read about your 408. That's pretty tragic... It's cool that Ypedal tried to hook you up. He's Teh Bomb, he just doesn't know it, he he! docnjoj aka "otherDoc" mentioned he had his 409 cover fixed (welded?). I just might go that route and then wind the armature into a 409. I put this winding project on-the-back-burner for now but I'm curious about a 409 rear and 408 combo so I'll do my best to make that happen ASAP. 4011 at 52 volts wasn't doing it for me.

Next mix will not be very up-tempo. In fact it will be very sedate so I can hypmotize Endless Sphere members into clucking chickens! @ Link. Lots of smooth music. It's pretty groovy for those who partake in herbal recreations. Very nice to wake up to if you set your CD alarm clock on less than medium volume and about one hour ahead of your usual waking time. It's pretty dope, I think. Oh, and I got the Akira Kurusawa's Seven Samurai movie soundtrack on there mixed with Keiko Matsui's most excellent piano skillz.

What kind of music are you into? Good luck with your 408!

J

[Dee Jay]

I ordered the 20A version PS.

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I was hoping to use 10A for my electomagnet that would trigger the relay/solenoid and use 10A to charge 2 paralleled cells but (using an analog ammeter) I realized that:

-my 20A-PS only peaks @ 6.5A charging two approx 3.11v paralleled cells and

-my 8A-PS only peaks @ 4.5A charging approx 3.11v single cell. I can charge 2 paralleled cells and still peak @ only 6.5A charging one 3.11v cell

I don't understand why tailwind's chart shows his 8A-PS peaks @ 9.63A charging a single 3.21v cell and is done in about 40 minutes... ? ? ? His 20A-PS peaks @ 24.06 with four paralleled cells and is done in about an hour. viewtopic.php?f=14&t=4057&p=69229&hilit=single+cell+Dee+Jay&sid=aee5c511c60d521403f7c91ad6ed6e06#p69229

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My 8A-PS takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes starting @ 3.11v, and the 20A-PS takes about 2 hours with 2 paralleled cells starting @ 3.11v! EDIT: Maybe my charging harness is too long...

umm, Yo ?

I will try running a fan off the 20A-PS for extra load while charging 2 parallel cell, maybe then I'll draw the amps for my electromagnet.

On the plus side, I can now charge a pack twice as fast with two PS, and charge two packs paralleled with one 20A-PS

J

[Dee Jay]

About a few months back, I was charging a cell while I stepped out for about an hour, and the wife accidentally moved the charging leads while vacuuming the room and she shorted the leads together.

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I've been meaning insulate the leads for a long time and even purchased the right sized heat shrink just a few weeks prior, but I kept forgetting to get it done . Anyway, I came home and the first thing she said was "your battery pack was smoking"

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I immediately cut the shorted wires from outside the pack, cut the rest,

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then slowly opened the pack while listening for shorts and looking for more smoke. I found that only two wires burned inside the pack . . .

if the charging harness burned and shorted all at once, the whole pack may have gone up in flames and exploded!

Fuses on each wire might be a good idea, I thought.

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[Dee Jay]

Old news: My failed attempt at charging 30 cells with the DC9000 charger, 10 cell at a time, left me charging one cell at a time with an 8 amp power supply

~zzz~

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but now that I have the 20 amp version I can charge twice as fast so that's just one z

~ z ~

But until I get my rotary switch functional, I will always risk plugging the charging leads to the wrong pin. And charging cells whilst having Jim Beam whiskey on the rocks will increase my chances of feeding -50 volts to my poor little 20A power supply

Like so:

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Man, that negative lead just vaporized! *Poof*Hiccup* All this drinking and smoking has got to stop *rim shot*

Luckily my power supply survived like a trooper

The dark marks on my fingers are not burns btw. No really! it washed off

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[Dee Jay]

I finally stopped being lazy and attempted to install a temp sensor inside my 408 motor but the three wires' insulation were about a millimeter thick each, plus the replacement heat shrink tube was thicker than the original so it was a no-go. I will use three single strand wires on my next attempt.

I also bought a great rust removing product which worked like a charm.

good stuff!

I was hoping to get enough rust off the axle to push it out and swap it with the 4011 rear axle for a front-to-rear motor conversion, but it still wouldn't budge!

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I removed the bearing seal to check for rust.

Some rust water seeped in from the outside. Also it seemed like it needed more grease so I packed plenty of fresh grease like one would in CV joints but I may have applied too much or used the wrong grease as it wouldn't freewheel as easily as before. I installed it as-is anyway just to see how much it would affect efficiency. So far it's fine.

I didn't achieve my goals that afternoon but I had a moment of URETHRA! To widen the motor's wire path -but not by grinding the axle- Details soon so stand-the-funk-by

Happy Friday

J

[Dee Jay]

I rebuilt my charging harness of the pack that shorted and used yellow duct-tape of great quality! The adhesive has the same stickiness as your average duct-tape but it doesn't feel like it would gunk-up the cells when I remove the tape after a while.

Yellow duct-tape looks da-assums! even if I'm the only one who looks inside the pack

I didn't feel like redoing the other pack wrapped in silver duct-tape, I'll just wait to redo it when I find other reasons to mess with it, like another short

I also switched from 12 pin white connector (wadayacalit?) and 6 pin black connector back to the original 16 pin white connectors, but this time with male pins instead of female. Females has a tendency to spread too wide apart causing inconsistent electrical contact. These connectors will plug to my rotary charger incased in a plexiglass enclosure that's 25 x 25 x 5 cm when (or if) I find one. If not, DIY.
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[Dee Jay]

Wow, I can't believe how perfect my two new enclosures are for A123 M1 cells

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I don't know why I haven't thought of using an M1 cell (until now) to check how well the cells fit. I think I was too hung up on the "specs" as well as not wanting to be disappointed if I find out that I won't have room for charging harness, even if I used thin ribbon wires.

Looks like I'll have room for my 18 awg(?) charging harness, home-made copper cell tabs, as well as a plastic sheets to insulate the top and bottom of the cells.

Aesthetics might be a different story. . .will they look too boxy and affect the Revive's elegance? My choice of the Bell Cocoon child seat actually added to the my bike's elegance that the bike looks naked to me without it.

The Journey Kit quick-release enclosure is a bit too tall for my liking but the bulbous tip of the pack gets the ladies hot and bothered, ooh ooh! Ok maybe not, but it does me, anyway, I decided to keep it on the frame and attach the new enclosures on each side of the swing arm for additional 4.6ah for longer trips.

J

[Dee Jay]

Sometime last autumn, Pack A which was hidden inside the Revive frame tube disconnected at the first cell. I pulled the pack out and I wondered if the frame tube pack idea was worth the trouble. I hadn't touched Pack A until now because I'm short on range. I thought it's time to get crackin' on my swing arm pack using my new enclosures.

The original cells tabs were weak so I decided to tear them out and solder fabbed copper tabs.

The negative tabs were welded really well and was a bit tricky to remove. I was left with sharp bits on the negative that need to be filed down. The positive tabs positive tabs pulled off effortlessly.

I found it odd that, if you remove the cell's paper insulation, that the whole cell body is positive and the negative is just a tiny island separated from the positive by just millimeters apart.

At first I couldn't decide on whether I should hold the pack together with duct tape or glue. I never liked the idea of committing the cells with glue and didn't want to wrap the whole pack with large and expensive heat shrink. What I want is to have the cells accessible (if I ever kill a cell again) and not have to tear into the pack and having to wrap it again with more expensive heat shrink. Duct tape was almost doable if kept to a minimum but it still gets sticky gunk all over the cells that gets stickier in summer heat. Well I shat me a brilliant idea so I brokedown and hopped on the hotglue bandwagon. Yep!

I've never used hotglue before and always wondered what the advantage of it is over using only a tube of silicone sealant. So I buzzed down the hardware store still wondering if I should pay 23 bucks for the hot glue kit or pay 3 bucks for a tube of silicone.. me being a cheap bastard..I asked for a tube of clear silicone. The clerk searched high and low, out of hundreds of sealant, silicone, glue products and he couldn't find one that was clear. I thought it might be God's way of telling me to go for the hot glue kit. And I'm an atheist! Well I was blown away by the convenience of not having to wait forever for it to cure. Instant gratification is so King. Shoot, now I have to find other uses for it to justify owning it... hell, I'm knee deep into this hobby so fuggit...

Earlier, I checked the height of the cell and it fitted nicely in the enclosure but my dumbass didn't bother to see if two cells fit side-by-side. I found that two cells were few a millimeters too wide and the enclosure wouldn't shut flush. So I staggered them and I'm in there like hardware leaving me with just enough space on the sides of the cells for the charging harness. shweetness!

So Dee Jay, what's this brilliant idea you've come up with this time?

After pulling Pack A out of the frame tube, I was left with the 1 meter long heat shrink tubing that I used to loosely insulate the pack and

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Solid!

But Dee Jay, what if you kill a cell? That means you'd have to tear the heat shrink blah blah blah...

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Fnck no! I can simply cut the tabs and viola! Slide that sucker out, and slide another one in! Tee hee hee!

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~ Tra ~ la ~ la ~ I am the man..

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Tuck the boys in bed. Nite-nite.

J

[Doctorbass]

Sometime last autumn, Pack A which was hidden inside the Revive frame tube disconnected at the first cell. I pulled the pack out and I wondered if the frame tube pack idea was worth the trouble. I hadn't touched Pack A until now because I'm short on range. I thought it's time to get crackin' on my swing arm pack using my new enclosures.

The original cells tabs were weak so I decided to tear them out and solder fabbed copper tabs.

coppertabs.jpg

The negative tabs were welded really well and was a bit tricky to remove. I was left with sharp bits on the negative that need to be filed down. The positive tabs positive tabs pulled off effortlessly.

I found it odd that, if you remove the cell's paper insulation, that the whole cell body is positive and the negative is just a tiny island separated from the positive by just millimeters apart.

At first I couldn't decide on whether I should hold the pack together with duct tape or glue. I never liked the idea of committing the cells with glue and didn't want to wrap the whole pack with large and expensive heat shrink. What I want is to have the cells accessible (if I ever kill a cell again) and not have to tear into the pack and having to wrap it again with more expensive heat shrink. Duct tape was almost doable if kept to a minimum but it still gets sticky gunk all over the cells that gets stickier in summer heat. Well I shat me a brilliant idea so I brokedown and hopped on the hotglue bandwagon. Yep!

hotglue.jpg

I've never used hotglue before and always wondered what the advantage of it is over using only a tube of silicone sealant. So I buzzed down the hardware store still wondering if I should pay 23 bucks for the hot glue kit or pay 3 bucks for a tube of silicone.. me being a cheap bastard..I asked for a tube of clear silicone. The clerk searched high and low, out of hundreds of sealant, silicone, glue products and he couldn't find one that was clear. I thought it might be God's way of telling me to go for the hot glue kit. And I'm an atheist! Well I was blown away by the convenience of not having to wait forever for it to cure. Instant gratification is so King. Shoot, now I have to find other uses for it to justify owning it... hell, I'm knee deep into this hobby so fuggit...

Earlier, I checked the height of the cell and it fitted nicely in the enclosure but my dumbass didn't bother to see if two cells fit side-by-side. I found that two cells were few a millimeters too wide and the enclosure wouldn't shut flush. So I staggered them and I'm in there like hardware leaving me with just enough space on the sides of the cells for the charging harness. shweetness!

staggered.jpg

So Dee Jay, what's this brilliant idea you've come up with this time?

whatgives.jpg

After pulling Pack A out of the frame tube, I was left with the 1 meter long heat shrink tubing that I used to loosely insulate the pack and

glued2.jpg

Solid!

But Dee Jay, what if you kill a cell? That means you'd have to tear the heat shrink blah blah blah...

deadcell.jpg

Fnck no! I can simply cut the tabs and viola! Slide that sucker out, and slide another one in! Tee hee hee!

popout.jpg

~ Tra ~ la ~ la ~ I am the man..

nicefit.jpg

Tuck the boys in bed. Nite-nite.

J

That's a nice idea Dee Jay for the shrink tube!

now just pay attention to the cell that can have direct contact with your alluminum case!.. these cells can deliver current of 550A when shorted!.. that would garanty you that you could never be able to open up your case dur to perfect weld!!! ..

Doc

[Dee Jay]

That's a nice idea Dee Jay for the shrink tube!

now just pay attention to the cell that can have direct contact with your alluminum case!.. these cells can deliver current of 550A when shorted!.. that would garanty you that you could never be able to open up your case dur to perfect weld!!! ..

Doc

Hey, thanks Doctorbass!

Yeah, I'm a bit nervous about a tight metal enclosure. I'll need thin bullet proof sheets for the ends of the cells and then to ensure the cells don't shift back and forth maybe use a tight fitting blocks of wood (or something light weight) to fill the ends of the pack

J

ps: new mix is up, please enjoy!
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2997&p=133426&sid=6a93eb61e7e86813677e0be92984885c#p133426

[Doctorbass]

That's a nice idea Dee Jay for the shrink tube!

now just pay attention to the cell that can have direct contact with your alluminum case!.. these cells can deliver current of 550A when shorted!.. that would garanty you that you could never be able to open up your case dur to perfect weld!!! ..

Doc

Hey, thanks Doctorbass!

Yeah, I'm a bit nervous about a tight metal enclosure. I'll need thin bullet proof sheets for the ends of the cells and then to ensure the cells don't shift back and forth maybe use a tight fitting blocks of wood (or something light weight) to fill the ends of the pack

J

ps: new mix is up, please enjoy!
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2997&p=133426&sid=6a93eb61e7e86813677e0be92984885c#p133426

I suggest two different way to do this:

cheap : try with bicycle tire tube that you cut in the right dimention!.. they have the just right thick and insulatr well for vibration too!

lightweight: find some PCB without the cooper on any side.. thgis fibergladd is just like bulletproof and fire retardent!

Doc

[Ypedal]

Hot Glue Rulz!!!!! I buy that stuff by the 5 Lb box !

Nice box.. !

ps: Fiberglass sheet ie: " G10 " .. Of the cheap bastard option.. Rubbermaid plastic bins for a source of plastic sheet ! In canada we got " Crazy Carpet " at the dollar store !