Some time ago, I blew my methods 72v40A controller. I choose the easy way out and ordered a Lyen 121445 controller that is fit for 150V. I now have one Lyen 121445 controller currently driving my rear HT3525 from -methods at either 20S 84V (in town) or 30S 126V (outside in the hills), and it works like a charm. Another Lyen 121445 controller just came in and will be used to drive a front 9C 2810 from -methods on the same bike. Fun!!
Both -methods and Lyen have been very fast to respond to me with detailed and well-thought-through answers. Very good service, keep up the good works!
Of course, I also blew the Lyen controller. However, with the help from Lyen and some on the forum here, I managed to replace the popped 4115 MOSFETs with 4110 FETs from methods controller and got everything working again. I ordered new 4115FETs and they arrived today. So I can get the Lyen controller back to full 4115 again and do 30S again. I know I should not double post, but I would like to keep a nice log of what I have been doing in this thread, so admins, please forgive me....
Nekkid Lyen 124115 controller: non-modified traces on the backside. From here I checked all MOSFETs. The black lines indicate shorted MOSFETs.
Nekkid insides. Lots of wires, not a lot of room, and definitely no room for a small soldering iron......hmm
Closeup of the popped MOSFETs. I can not see any difference with the other MOSFETs....
Screws removed of all Phase C MOSFETs.
I put a tiewrap through every hole on top of the MOSFETs. Then I turned the controller and put it on its side. Then, while gently pulling on the tiewrap of one MOSFET, I heated the three pins on the backside of the board until all solder was flowing, allowing me to pull out the MOSFET. Cleaning up the holes to allow the new FETs in was a pain in the neck.
4 new candidates at lower voltage (4110 is good for 100V max)
I took the opportunity to change my frame. This is the conventional version. It has a cheap Fox front fork, which is actually not bad at all.
And this is after modification to electric. I tried putting the lipos in the triangle, but it completely destroys the stealth look. With the batteries in front of the steering bar, handling is not that bad on this bike. Much better than on my cheap chinese ebike. So there they are again. I also replaced the front fork with my Fox TALAS FIT RLC 140mm, and the rear brake disc has been enlarged to 203mm. Thinking of doing 203 in front as well, but that has time. Also need mud protectors.
The ride is very very nice. Having front and aft suspension and a Dutch saddle makes for a very smooth ride, even at 55 km/hr. I am one happy camper at the moment....
... cant wait for a 2WD at 126V, though...
A MW clone 36V 9A PSU arrived. I will be using it with 2x 48V 7A PSUs to bulk charge 30S at 7A. I will need to pack the PSUs in a box in order to prevent my kids from being electrocuted.... cute..
My Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro 26x2.10 just arrived. Impressive number of spikes for an impressive price (EUR 80 per tire).
Photo of what I actually received will follow tonight.
I will only ride these when it has actually snowed on the road. As Hugues mentioned that he lost 30% of the spikes, I will be driving very carefully with them, and hopefully they will last a couple of winters.
When it is not snowing and no ice, I just use these specific Ebike tires: Schwalbe Energizer 47-559 26x1.75.