gensem wrote:I forgot to ask...
The controller is fitted with 24 4110 fets and I dont plan to go over 160a main;
Should I mod anything else on the controller?
When i ventilate controllers, I direct the airflow where it's needed, just like I try to do in a motor, because the path of least resistance typically isn't best, eg Once the board is in the case I use a doubled up piece of shrink under the full width of the board to stop air from flowing under the board. On the component side of the board I mostly block off the mostly open side. I put the intake holes near the FET bar(s). My goal is to force the air flow from the fan toward the FETs as much as practical, since they're what is generating all the heat. It can make a huge difference too. On the Super 36 I got from SteveO, he had really swiss cheesed the intake end cover plate, and air flowed freely, but the air coming out didn't feel very warm even when the case near the FET bar holding bolts what quite hot. I blocked off the intake holes except near the FET bar, and the air coming out got noticeably warmer. Then I did my usual air dams inside and the exhaust air got warmer still, so I know both portions of the approach are beneficial.
You also have to be sure that you have sufficient intake area, especially with radial fans which usually can't put much pressure at all without high power like a ducted fan. The way I make sure is to run the fan with the end all the way open and with the end plate on to be sure the flow volume doesn't change. Feeling it with your and and listening to the fan sound have worked sufficiently for me.
When it's for a bike to be used in the elements, I use short pieces of 3/8" tubing for the intake and angle them down and forward. That way water or debris would have to go uphill to get in the controller, and there's just not enough flow velocity. Another benefit is that I can direct the inside end directly at the fets. It does take more cross-sectional intake area though, since the tubes themselves represent a flow restriction.