A kit for commuting with 'future proofing' in mind

stripedtuna

100 W
Joined
Nov 23, 2011
Messages
110
Location
Canberra, Australia
Hi everyone,

This is my first thread, and it got started talking on another thread, (http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=33290) where i had spotted an awesome bike that ran exactly how i had dreamed my bike would run one day.. In fact his bike is better than what i had hoped any bike of mine would be, but we have to have goals right?

Anyway, I didn't want to hijack the other bikes thread with all my questions, so decided to continue my questions in this new thread. Here is wher i left off.

********************************************

Hi Stuart,

the 8T was exactly what i had in mind, but recently had thought of getting the 12 fet controller. I definitely wouldn't need anymore grunt than what your bike could do, but thought to get the 12 fet in case i decided i wanted to build something bigger down the track. (would be a different bike than my current)

My mind has been bouncing back and forth between the the kit you mentioned, and cell_man's 1000w kit which had the 12 fet..

http://www.emissions-free.com/catalog/i24.html

Which ever kit i went with though, i was definitely going to ask for the 8T winding, as its a great allrounder from what i have read and it already has a top speed faster than i would dare to go on my bike. (the default for the 1000w kit was a 6T). So the bigger controller was going to be more than i needed for now but seemed not much more money. The other thing that i was keen on was this 3 speed switch and Cycle Analyst connector. It didnt mention those on the 500W kits even though i think you can get it for any of those controllers.

The 35kph speed with a bit of pedal is exactly what i would be using the bike for at the moment.. The bike I got is only a Giant Rincon about 5 years old. It has an alloy frame, so would definitely have to make some steel torque arms.. It did come out with cable disk brakes though, but has an 8 gear cassette on the back. I think i will need to change that to a 7 or 5 gear rear to fit with the motor and may need to make a mod similar to yours to fit the caliper from rubbing the motor. Either that or look into a thinner caliper.

At this stage, I am certain i want the 8T motor, unsure between the 9 or 12 fet controller. I am sure both are plenty for me, but its that "future proof" thought in my head that is confusing me. They are not much different in price, and i wonder if i use the 12 fet, can i program the controller to not use the higher current, thus getting more run out of a battery charge more like the 9 fet would... Or even use that 3 speed switch to force only partial throttle.. That way i can have the bike i want now, but still have the larger current controller at hand if i ever decide i want to build bigger later. Any idea if a 12 fet controller can be used as though it was a 9, just by programming it?

There seems to be a few batteries to choose from and i certainly need to read more about them. You happy with the Ping? I have heard awesome comments about the Ping batteries on this forum. I also need to consider shipping charges too. Might be cheaper to just get the batteries from cell_man and combine the shipping cost with my kit, than to get the battery from Ping. Not sure, and don't know which of the two battery types suits my needs better. From what i have read, for commuting the ping battery is safer, and will live for longer than lipo (especially for an unexperienced person like me). For racing (which i am not doing) i read that lipo is better for more hard bursts of power. Something about 2C and 30C i read. If what i read is right, then the Ping might be the one for me. I want to commute, and don't want to burn my house down while charging.. I am not sure about the A123 ones from cell_man yet.. need to read more about those batteries too as many people use and like them too. This forum is the beez neez for all this info though.. I just need more time to read it. Heaps more time.. Shoulda listened to my teacher years ago when they taught speed reading.. lol.

Sorry to write all this on your thread.. I really should move this to its own, so as to not side track from the real spotlight, which is your fiberglassed beast.

I will make my first thread now.

Cheers,

Tuna.


***********************************************
 
So really what i am looking for is a bike that suits me for commuting at the moment, but if possible, using parts that might be suitable, if i decided to want to do more with my e-biking down the track..

My commute ride:
Fairly flat ride for 10km each way per day (i know i sound lazy, but i ride it for exercise each day, but hate the days with strong head wind. I am also an ex electrician, and love the idea of an electric powered bike.) I Still want to ride for exercise with my e-bike, but when i need to would like the motor available.

At this stage my possible draft list of parts is as follows:

To be continued.....


Cheers,

Tuna.
 
You won't want to run more than 2000w through one of those geared motors, so a 9 FET will be fine.
I'd likely still buy a 12, but its overkill by a good margin.

Forget the idea of a "kit" if you want to upgrade later. Your motor and source are fine, but you'll want a CA compatable controller from Lynn. and you'll want a CA.

As for the battery, if you're not going to be racing or pulling off the insain, then a ping battery or one from cell_man is the best option. the 52V 11.5 A123 triangle pack looks to be pricey but that should give you plenty of power to make your commute. if you hold to 30kmh, you should be able to do it in a single charge with power to spare.
 
Silly man, thinking he won't cook off motors once he starts playing with big wattage and higher voltage later. The only future for 800w motors is running em at 800w. (1500W for a short burst ok) .

Build your nice commuter now, and economize on the controller by getting one that won't fry the motor, like the 9 fet. You could choose the fast motor and 36v battery, but my choice would be the slower motor and 48v battery. slow motor and 48v will climb hills with less motor overheating, so that combo for the long run imo.

Later on, build your high volt high amp bike with a direct drive motor. Or go RC motor and chain.
 
Thanks heaps for the fast replies guys.. ALso big thanks for all the info I have read from both of you in lots of other threads..

Cooking and frying.. Yummy.. I'm all for doing both in the kitchen, but definitely don't want to experience either on my first attempt at an e-bike.. The price difference between the kit with the 12 fet and the 9 fet controller is only $17.. And the 12 fet kit mentions that it comes with the proper CA connector, and the 3 speed switch.

That in mind, I know that all i need for this bike is the 9 fet (and that it is safer for the motor), but was wondering if a 12 fet can be easily configured / programmed to be safe for the geared motor, just like the 9 fet is? (ie. configured / downgraded to only output a max current equivalent to the 9 fet) That way I pay the extra $17 now, configure the 12 to not run any higher power than what the 9 fet would safely run the motor at, and then later down the track if i decide to scrap the commuter for a higher current DD beast project, I wont need to buy another controller..

I definitely want the CA connector and a CA too (and wouldn't mind the 3 speed switch in case i have to have like a street legal mode or something), and it seems to only be listed on the 12 fet kit on cell_man's site. Will have to ask him whether those options are on the 9 fet Infineon controller too.

Any idea if I can easily configure the 12 fet to lower the max current to the equivalent of the 9? If not, then can the CA be used to do it instead? If that's not on the cards, then I certainly would be taking the safe bet of getting the 9 up front.

At this stage my possible draft list of parts is as follows:

  • 8T MAC 500W motor - chose this as i still want to exercise with the bike on good keen days, and I have heard that a DD motor would be harder to pedal when the motor is not being used. The DD is also heavier i think. Lastly, I only have room for one bike, and may need to ride it in the rain. SO would prob like to disconnect and remove the battery and controller, and still take it as a normal pedal bike. (Or do these kits work safely in the rain?)
    9 or 12 fet controller depending on if i can easily down rate the 12 for safety with this motor
    Ping 48V15AH battery
    Cycle Analyst
    Falcon-EV triangle bag - or else use my back pack.. not sure how heavy and safe that would be though.
    still not sure what throttle would be best yet. Leaning towards the half grip twist with cruise button but really need to read more opinions. Any thoughts on where one throttle suits better over the others?
    3 speed switch
    make some torque arms

Have I forgotten anything?

Thanks in advance,

Tuna.
 
That's awesome.. does it also have the Cyclist Analyst connection?.. I reckon it would have, but just want to be sure..

If it does, I reckon the 9 fet might be the better and safer bet.. To be honest your bike goes way faster than i would prob be game to ride too.. and it wont blow the motor..

Lastly, what throttle type did you go with? Happy with it?

Thanks heaps GM,

Cheers,

TUna
 
The CA will let you set a lower amp limit, among other useful features.

Others have used a backpack. But if you have ever road with a heavy backpack and tried to pedal, you'll understand why thats not the greatest of ideas.

Half twist are the way to go. cruise control may not be a bad feature, if you also add the E brakes. But I wouldn't want the extra parts with potential extra points of failure
 
G'day Tuna,
I'm not sure if mine has a Cycle Analyst plug or not. I've taken a photo of the unused ones and perhaps someone else here might be able to confirm what they are. I think it may be the black one shown. You could also just send an email to Cell_man and I'm sure he'd be able to answer any questions that you have.

I have the full twist throttle, I've not used any other type (half or thumb) so I can't really compare.

Also, check your PM.

-Stuart

connector.JPG
 
Cheers for that guys..

Definitely not going to go with a back pack then. it was a temporary solution. I certainly didn't think that through when that suggestion came out.. :oops: At first i might take the easy option of a triangle bag, and maybe work out a more permanent solution down the track. See how that goes.

I definitely want a Cycle Analyst.. Not sure which one goes with the Mac 500W yet.. as in its either Direct Plug-in Model (CA-DP) or Direct Plug-in with Speedo (CA-DPS).. http://www.ebikes.ca/drainbrain.shtml May need to ask cell_man that one.. I did however see the plugs in those pictures and the direct plug in is a 6 pin, and looks like the one in your photo GM.. So pretty sure the 9 fet has all that i want..

I am going take a look at the throttles tonight and weigh up which one to get.. I used to ride trail bikes, so a full grip throttle is something that i have at least experienced. Don't think i need the e-brakes or cruise, for the same reason that DrunkSkunk pointed out.. More stuff to go wrong.. So that said, what are the advantages of half twist over full?

Thanks again fellas..

Cheers,

Tuna..

p.s. i think i am nearly there, and cell_man isnt back for a few days yet.. so i got time to think.. cant wait to put an order in.. cheers.
 
Hey Tuna,
I went through a very similar exercise deciding what kit to get and settled on the Mac 500w 8T from Cell man with the 9fet controller and one of his A123 batteries. I considered the Ping battery because it sounded like good value for money but i'm glad i went for the A123 16S4P battery as it's a bit smaller and lighter. It's 9.2AH and about 58v off the charger. I get about 20Wh/km running at WOT (50kph on the flat) so range would be a little over 20km. This includes some short steep hills (up to 12%, 0.5km long) but mostly flat to undulating.

I also got a CA, the DPS large screen version, i just asked Cell man to install the CA plug...works perfectly. I'm very pleased with the kit; excellent performance - good on the hills, fast on the flat, not too noisy and reasonably 'stealthy'. I pedal all the time...not so much for exercise, although it helps, but it helps to keep my speed up on the hills and helps acceleration too.

Good luck with the build. Cheers.
 
Thanks heaps for that info Danos.. Sent you a PM too..

My wife always tells me that i need a T-shirt that says "I used to be indecisive, but now i'm not so sure.." That's how i feel at the moment. I have now heard great experiences with both the ping and the A123 batteries, with the same motor/controller setup that i want.. The price of the ping is hard to beat seeing that includes a charger, but i might save a bucket load on shipping if i get the whole lot from cell_man. Cell_man also has a battery shaped perfectly for the triangle bag. I am sure which i ever i choose will work well.. Might sleep on it.

I definitley have read that the CA should be the DPS model, as on the CA website the DPS model states that it is for "geared motor setups like the eZee kits where the motor RPM does not match the wheel RPM". Now that Danos confirmed his works well, I am sorted on that front.

After more reading, i now totally understand where Dogman was coming from with his good advice regarding the 9 fet controller.. I could just plug it in and use it, without the chance of me burning out the Mac motor due to over current and lack of experience. DrunkSkunk did mention that I could set limits with the CA, but certainly for a first timer, I will take the safe bet and get the 9 fet. If i want a DD beast later on, I would certainly be needing a whole new bike, and best get another complete setup from scratch.

I am nearly at the stage where i can send an email to cell_man..

At this point my list of parts is as follows:

Decided:
  • 8T MAC 500W motor http://www.emissions-free.com/catalog/i23.html
    9 fet controller
    3 speed switch (i think this is part of the throttle) but i will list it here so i dont forget to ask when i buy)
    Cycle Analyst - Large Screen Direct Plug-in with Speedo (CA-LDPS) http://www.ebikes.ca/drainbrain.shtml
    Falcon-EV triangle bag
    make some torque arms
    some form of a turn key switch

Undecided:
  • Ping 48V15AH OR 52V 11.5Ah triangle A123 Pack + suitable charger
    full grip twist throttle
    not sure if i use e-brake levers with a twist throttle. Anyone?

I need to find some photos of the different twist throttle setups from cell_man's kits.. WIll search now..

Lastly, with the 9 FET controller the website says "The controller is a quality Infineon 9 fet (EB209) fitted with either IRFB3077 (75V fets, up to 48V battery pack) or IRFB4110 (100V fets, up to 72V battery pack)." Any idea which one i get if ordered the 52V battery? Which one did you get Danos and GM?

Thanks heaps for all the help thus far.. I know i am close and cell_man isnt back till the 6th December.. so i have time..

Cheers,

Tuna.
 
Sounds like you made solid choices. Either controller will work with that voltage and motor. Later on, if you do want to play with 2000w and more, you'll want the 100v fets. But at that point, you want the 12 fet or larger controller. So don't spend bux on the 100v fets now.

If you go with the pingbattery, you have a bit more range. That, and actual cost are two good reasons for the ping, if you need that range. But the triangle shape, and far better c rate of the A123 makes that the way to go if you don't need that bit of extra range. bear in mind too, you could add some range later if needed with more A123.

With the ping, you are stuck with about 25 amp controllers max, while with the cellman pack, you can use the same battery on a higher amp bike with dd motor later. Another good reason to just buy the whole package from cellman, or everything but the controller and CA. So get the future proof A123 pack for sure! That is the real problem. Motors are kind of disposable really, but a battery is the BIG investment.

Half twist throttle. With no cable attached, the full twist won't have the feel of a cabled motorcycle throttle. You tend to get a bucking bronco effect when you hit a bump with full twist. Thumb throttles break off. Half twist is very compatible with trigger shifters. If you have twist shifters, the best bet is to lose at least one of em. Various ways to do that.
 
Thanks heaps again for that info Dogman.

I have been reading a fair few of your posts, and your wealth of experience shows in the good advice you spread. In fact i just read the thread about the cargo bike, started tonight.. awesome project that guy has ahead of him..

I am sold on the triangle battery, and the half twist throttle now. I got trigger shifters too.. . . ta..

Do i still make use of e-brake levers which cut the motor, when i use a half twist throttle? My guess is that they are mainly for thumb throttle with cruise control, but am not sure..

I think cell_man prices the kit the same whether you get the the 75 or the 100V fets controller. http://www.emissions-free.com/catalog/i23.html But on that web page it states that the 75V fet is for batteries up to 48V. Yet the triangle battery is a 52V. That was the part that was spooking me. Seeing i am going to buy the battery from cell_man too, which ever 9 fet controller he gives me should suit the battery. But i take it you are saying that the 75V fet version will still be the one for the 52V battery? (52 aint much more than 48) ..


At this point my list of parts is as follows:

Decided:

  • 8T MAC 500W motor http://www.emissions-free.com/catalog/i23.html
    9 fet controller
    52V 11.5Ah triangle A123 Pack + suitable charger
    half twist throttle
    3 speed switch (i think this is part of the throttle) but i will list it here so i dont forget to ask when i buy)
    Cycle Analyst - Large Screen Direct Plug-in with Speedo (CA-LDPS) http://www.ebikes.ca/drainbrain.shtml
    Falcon-EV triangle bag
    make some torque arms
    some form of a turn key switch

Looks like i will be ready to put an email together by tomorrow thanks to all the help. Thanks heaps everyone..

Cheers,

Tuna.
 
Cellman somewhat confuses us, by listing his batteries at thier real top of charge working voltage. 48v may come off the charger at 60v, and then drop to about 56v after the first few feet of riding. Then it slowly drops throughout the ride after that.

So cellmans 52v battery, is I believe, a typical 16 cell lifepo4 "48v " battery. The higher voltage fets may be more reliable, or not. I wouldn't fret the fets though, till you are going into the high wattage applications. I've never blown a 20 amp controller. Only controller I ever blew had modifications to the shunt. To me it's not something to worry about in the commuter power level stuff.

For me, not using regen, I don't need the brake cutoffs. I can learn to get off the throttle ok when I want to brake. You'd have to add the reed switch to your existing levers to have cutoffs, or change to a different shift lever like the old school bar mounts.

But it can be a good idea to have a cutoff, just in case a controller or throttle fails in the WOT manner. It was very common to have this on brushed motor controllers, or on throttles that had a battery indicator built in. I don't have cutoffs, or want cutoffs, on any of my bikes.
 
Sweet thing finding this thread. You and me are after the exact same thing, tuna.
Now all I have to do is sit back, read, order and outrun the "pacific blue"-cops of Gothenburg.

Thanx dogman for excellent advice!
 
Thanks Dogman..

i think the conversion kit will come with the cutout levers, so i will take a look at them and then decide if i should make a reed switch version for my levers, or not worry about the cutout. My bike does have the combined shifter/brakes so will decide once i get the gear as to which way to go.

All my doubts i think are pretty much sorted now. Got one more issue that I forgot to consider. The rear wheel gears. My current rear wheel has an 8 speed cassette. Cell_man's site mentions "The Mac 500W rear motor allows both disk brake and 7 speed freewheel to be used on the standard 135mm dropout."

Lucky i looked up the difference between a cassette and a freewheel. I thought they were the same thing and nearly bought a 7 gear cassette a few minutes ago.

http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html

Anyone got any recomendations on what gear ratio would be best to buy for a suitable 7 speed freewheel? I am guessing i would want a good top end (long gears, low number of teeth) if i am ever going to try and pedal with the motor going at decent speed.

I am thinking of getting this one: 7 Speed 11-32 tooth Freewheel

http://www.ebikes.ca/store/photos/FW7Spd1132.jpg

What do you reckon guys? Any suggestions?

Lastly, I am glad you are getting something out of this thread too Wick. The fact that you are keen on the same setup gives me even more confidence in my choices. I am also enjoying the learning, and getting a lot of great advice and example setups off the people here.. In a matter of a few days I have gotten great-value conversations from people in at least three continents. What a great forum...

Thanks again everyone,

Cheers,

Tuna.
 
You'll want the 11t freewheel most likely. You might be able to get a cheaper 14t, screw on freewheel. They are much more common. Lots depends on what speed you plan on traveling, and if you want to push on the pedals. Most MTB's can accomodate a 48t front chainring, but any bigger is a problem. 48-14 pedals nicely at 25 mph. If you plan on much 30 mph riding, then you definitely want the 11 t rear gear.

On most of my ebikes I have 14-48 gearing. But one bike is 11-48, and I do prefer it for running a fast motor. Others have very slow motors so 20 mph is the max speed.

Just so you know, on a motor hub, getting a freewheel back off requires a special tool. The one your lbs has won't fit around the big axle. Worth having for me, with a big stable full of ebikes. Perhaps worth adding to your order.
 
I just read some more about how a lot of rear disk callipers will rub hub motors without modifications and spacers etc... in fact cell_man's website states (and so do other sites selling other brands of hub motors) "some care when selecting a suitable caliper is required or some spacing of the disk away from the side cover and possibly modification of the caliper mounting may be required for some models of disk brake caliper."

Any suggestions for a brand / model of mechanical disk callipers that might be considered the thinner and more suitable types? I looked at the Alhonga Mechanical Caliper at The Grin, but they are labelled as being for the front wheel. I want a rear wheel kit.. .

What thin rear callipers have you all seen that seemed to fit well, without extra disk spacing and custom calliper mounts?.. If need be i will have to make the custom mods, but with limited tools and no machinery, this might be a bit difficult.

Also, which thread lock (loctite) type did you use for thread locking such bolts as your disk bolts

Its been so long since i used loctite..

Thanks again..

Ed.
 
Well look at that, another I hadn´t thought of. Thanks a bunch!

A thought. A DD motor produces a slight resistance when unpowered, so it´s not really a good motor if you want to use the ebike as a hbike (human powered). Some times you might be forced to do so though, for example if the temp drops and wind picks up and the battery runs out sooner than expectet. Would it be possible to, when the battery has about 10% to LVC, to make the controller limit the current to the motor so as to just overcome the resistance produced? As a "limp-home" backup kinda thing. Anyone tried this out?
 
The cycle analyst could be setup to limit your throttle like this, I think. You might look at it's manual at http://ebikes.ca/drainbrain.shtml

FWIW, the 9C 2807 I have on CB2 and have used on two other bikes doesn't really seem to have much resistance, especially when not connected to the controller.
 
Drunkskunk said:
You won't want to run more than 2000w through one of those geared motors, so a 9 FET will be fine.
I'd likely still buy a 12, but its overkill by a good margin.

Forget the idea of a "kit" if you want to upgrade later. Your motor and source are fine, but you'll want a CA compatable controller from Lynn. and you'll want a CA.

As for the battery, if you're not going to be racing or pulling off the insain, then a ping battery or one from cell_man is the best option. the 52V 11.5 A123 triangle pack looks to be pricey but that should give you plenty of power to make your commute. if you hold to 30kmh, you should be able to do it in a single charge with power to spare.

No, if he wants the MAC motor he definitely needs the cell_man controller. Anything else won't be good and will damage the motor in the long term as it will be too rough on the clutch. It is perfectly compatible with the Cycle Analyst.
 
stripedtuna said:
That's awesome.. does it also have the Cyclist Analyst connection?.. I reckon it would have, but just want to be sure..

If it does, I reckon the 9 fet might be the better and safer bet.. To be honest your bike goes way faster than i would prob be game to ride too.. and it wont blow the motor..

Lastly, what throttle type did you go with? Happy with it?

Thanks heaps GM,

Cheers,

TUna

Cycle Analyst connection is now standard on cell_man's controllers. You will need the direct plugin Cycle Analyst with the speed sensor.
 
Easy. When you know it's down to the wire, just slow down and limp home. Though I rarely use it this way, it's possible to hold the throttle part way.

Seriously, only about 50w is needed at the lowest throttle setting you can manage to hold. This means the last bit of battery can be made to last an hour, or better, start conserving a bit earlier and ride in assist mode, using only about 100w of battery power. Much easier to know you are using a low enough wattage with a wattmeter, but without one, simply riding about 10 mph max does it. At 15 mph, you'll be pulling no more than 200w on the flat.

But if you get suprised, maybe didn't fully charge, pedaling uphill home on dd is a bit of a bitch. Not much easier with a gearmotor either if uphill any. Still pedaling a 70 pound bike. Uggh.
 
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