Bafang rear+ DIY battery+central battery+ DIY Computer

CanadianWinters

CanadianWinters

100 W
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
196
Location
Alberta, Canada
Hi everyone,

I would like some advice on my Mountain Bike non-hub motor project.

The reason why I don't want an hub motor is that I had an ebike with a rear hub motor a couple of years ago and I was disappointed because the weight was concentrated on the rear wheel (I also had a rear pannier with Lifepo4 bat), and the bike was really heavy and hard to park or move when not riding it.

At the moment I only have the bike and I have not bought anything. I haven't had an electric bike in a while so I am a bit rusty but hopeful that new kits and parts have been developed during the past few years. I would like to keep things easy,clean and possibly light.
The ideal range of the bike would be 20km and max speed of 40kph.

For the motor kit I was thinking to use a 500w Cyclone kit ( http://www.cyclone-e-bikes.tw/product.php?pid_for_show=3153 ).

For the batteries I was thinking to use Lipo this time, with dedicated charger and Watt meter/power analyzer, all things I can find on hobbyking.com , prices seems reasonable.

Do you have any suggestion for me especially concerning the motor kit? I read several reviews and I still don't understand if It would be a good buy or not.


Thanks in advance!


Jaco
 
I'd suggest you have a read of the threads on the cyclone kits. Iddlers and freewheels seem to be the main issues.
other types include the cycle-motor.com german version http://www.cycle-motor.com/
the GNG http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/24V-36V-...164?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb931b10c
the AFT

If you are handy then perhaps a hub motor Bottom bracket drive may be another option. There are quite a few examples on here of home made ones, such as http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=17070
 
jateureka said:
I'd suggest you have a read of the threads on the cyclone kits. Iddlers and freewheels seem to be the main issues.
Click to expand...


Thanks Jateureka for the advice and links.

I noticed that I could also use a friction drive which has pretty much all I need:

- It's light
- Small and "tidy"
- Easy to install
- Few moving parts involved = less mechanical troubles (potentially)

Cheers,

Jaco
 
Friction is kind of a lame duck. It is prone to slippage if wet or dirty limiting your riding opportunities. It also can be limited in torque handling ability, so if your really on something steep it could slip. If sprung too tight against the wheel you could end up putting divots into the tires occasionally. In addition the motor has to take all the shocks of the rear wheel too.
 
My advise is not to write off friction drive as a lame duck. :? Sure, friction drive is not a good choice for off-road mountainbike riding but for commuting at 40kph and and a range of 20km, a friction drive setup is a more then capable contender. If you want the lightest weight solution that has close to zero impact on the way the standard bike rides, a well engineered friction drive is hard to beat. Have a read of some of the very informative friction drive threads on this forum and you will soon see that the old friction drive issues mentioned above have well and truly been solved.
 
Kepler said:
My advise is not to write off friction drive as a lame duck. :? Sure, friction drive is not a good choice for off-road mountainbike riding but for commuting at 40kph and and a range of 20km, a friction drive setup is a more then capable contender. If you want the lightest weight solution that has close to zero impact on the way the standard bike rides, a well engineered friction drive is hard to beat. Have a read of some of the very informative friction drive threads on this forum and you will soon see that the old friction drive issues mentioned above have well and truly been solved.
Click to expand...

Well I had just figured since it was going on a mountain bike that off-road would be in its future since commuting was not specified. But my experience is dated to those old zappy setup so I am a bit biased.
 
Picture 045 (Custom).jpgSpuzzete!

- It's light
- Small and "tidy"
- Easy to install
- Few moving parts involved = less mechanical troubles (potentially)

Yup ... It,s all of that , and your bike is still a bike .. And pretty stealth also...

Take a look at Kepler's , Adrian's , EvTodd's, and Spinningmagnets posts, and others here on ES...
Not a LAME DUCK in the flock :lol: Good luck with your build...

Bill
 
Hi guys!

Thanks for the suggestions!

magudaman said:
Well I had just figured since it was going on a mountain bike that off-road would be in its future since commuting was not specified.
Click to expand...

My bad, I did not say that I will not use the mountain bike on trails but 99% on asphalt/road.

To me a friction drive looks like the way to go now! I had a look at Adrian's kits and I have to say I am tempted to buy one!

If I go for a friction drive what kind of motor will suit best efficiency-wise? As I already said the ideal range of the bike would be 20km and max speed of 40kph (having no suspensions it becomes dangerous to exceed that speed imho).

I would like to conceal the battery in the frame, I am sure someone already had this idea but I can't find anything "simple" to do, like not welding/cut to do on the frame, I am handy, I can solder electronic components, but I can't weld.

Cheers,


Jaco
 
Spuzzete... It depends pretty much on how you plan on running your friction drive as to what motor you use .. Kepler , and Adrian , and myself run the motor can on the tire ... EvTodd , and spinningmagnets use a reduction 1" or 1.25" roller on the tire , so maybe a higher RPM motor ... I am running a Turnegy 63-64- 280 and 100-120 ESC ... It is kind of high rpm for running on the can , but I peddle up quite high before I hit the throttle ... Take a peak at the different Videos , there are some good ones , maybe you have already... Keep us up on what you do ...


Bill
 
rearengine said:
... I am running a Turnegy 63-64- 280 and 100-120 ESC ... It is kind of high rpm for running on the can , but I peddle up quite high before I hit the throttle ...

Bill
Click to expand...

Hi Bill,

I was thinking of using the can directly on the wheel, and I am kinda lazy so I will use the throttle even at low speed.
I figure that for this usage is better to choose a low kv motor, correct me if I am wrong.
I was thinking of those in particular:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7870
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=18182

Any experience/comment/idea on those?

As for battery I was thinking to use lipo 2 * 6s-5000mAh in parallel. I do not like to parallel battery packs of any kind but its hard to find affordable lipo > 5ah.

Cheers,


Jaco
 
Yes... the lower rpm motor , and larger can is best for off the can drive ... I'm with Kepler on the 6374-168KV motor... I don't have one , but thinking of getting it for when my 280 gives out ... It's in stock !!!!


Bill
 
With much love and respect to both you guys and your fine contributions to this forum, I have to disagree with using friction drive in the dirt. I don't have any real world experience, and if you can point me to an example of somebody trail riding with friction drive I would be happy to see it. :p Having said that, these guys use friction drive for that exact purpose and I have heard it works very good!

http://www.shuttlebuddy.com/index.html

You also need a fairly slick rear tire to make use of friction drive.

But hey, the worst case scenerio if it doesn't work is you have to switch over to RC drive cuz you already have half the components! Friction FTW!

What kind of bike do you have Spuzz? Does it have rear disk brakes and brakes studs for V brakes?
 
Hi guys!

I apologize for the long absence and silence.

Here in Canada is still snowing, so I didn't get anywere with the bike project.

I am thinking if it's better for me to use a geared hub motor (I had a DD and hated it) or a friction drive.
Thing is here weather can be nice and sunny, and usually cold (0-5 °C at the moment), but it's often windy. It's not very hilly here but there are some pretty short and steep hills which make me think I need more torque than speed.

Here is a photo of the bike I took today:

CIMG1067-001.JPG


This is a trip I did the other day (was very windy). I would have really liked some electric power when I was paddling against the wind.

Fullscreen capture 3222012 105157 AM.bmp.jpg


Fullscreen capture 3222012 105230 AM.bmp.jpg


Fullscreen capture 3222012 105325 AM.bmp.jpg


:)
 
Finally I made up my mind and bought a Bafang 36v 500w rear hub from bmsbattery.

I just got it a few days ago and mounted it today along with a rear rack.

Photos:

CIMG1109.JPG


CIMG1110.JPG


I am still working on the battery, but I am thinking to place it into a small tackle box as well as the motor controller so to make the bike a little more "weather proof".

:D
 
Spuzette, Nice looking hub motor. Is this the Bafang BPM 36v500w rear driving bike conversion kit?
Are you going to run it at 48v?
Finally I made up my mind and bought a Bafang 36v 500w rear hub from bmsbattery.
Click to expand...
 
Yes it's the Bafang BPM 36v500w rear driving bike conversion kit! I bought also a 48v controller but I am going to run it first at 36 volts.

I am still testing the batteries :)

I barely notice the weight when I paddle, much better than a DD motor IMHO.

:)
 
For the battery, get one of those football boot bags with a zip around the top - cost about $5 to $10. cut a piece of 3mm plywood the same size as the inside base and then bolt through the plywood onto your rack to make a neat, cheap, waterproof container. You can put a small padlock or zip-tie through the zip toggles to make it tamper-proof. you can also put your controller, tools and pump in there.
20111104_112419.jpg
 
Spuzzete, Thanks for answering my question, I think the Bafang BPM 36v500w looks really nice and beefy for a geared motor (almost like the MAC/BMC).
what is top speed of that Bafang BPM 36v500w? What exact voltage are you running? When you ordered you just specified to include the 48v controller.
Wouldn't they give you the Bafang BPM 48v500w instead?

d8veh, I have heard of those football boot bags, a bit hard to find here in Sweden. Still looking.
 
Thanks d8veh for the idea!
You bike looks really neat!Almost stealth!

I checked and the controller fits perfectly into the tackle box. I think it would be so much better in there, I don't like to have wires and connectors exposed outside.

What battery configuration are you using? What's your typical range?

@ Racer x

The motor I choose is high torque, 201rpm @ 36v, I bought the 48v controller so I can have torque and a bit more speed. I have not tested the bike yet but I am expecting the maximum speed to be about 25kph @ 36v and 35kph @ 48v. I read all this info on the forum before deciding to buy the kit so I guess I really have to test to know for sure! I am not interested in the top speed but in torque because here there are a few steep hills and it's going to be a great help having a HT motor for me.
This geared motor is great because I can easily pedal if I run out of battery, I had a DD before and It was a pain to pedal.
 
spuzzete said:
Thanks d8veh for the idea!
What battery configuration are you using? What's your typical range?
Click to expand...

It's a Ping 36v 20aH. For my 30 mile commute at about 17 mph with lazy pedalling, I use something between 9 and 12 aH, so range would be about 50 miles.
 
dnmun said:
your bafang rear motor looks different from the one on the other thread about a bafang rear motor from BMS battery. does your motor have the 8fun logo scribed into it?
Click to expand...

Yes it has the 8 Fun logo on it. Maybe it's a newer/older version?

Here a couple of photos:


IMG_0097.JPG


 
Code 13! That's interesting. They normally supply the code 15 which is slower. Yours should be good for about 22mph max with 36v.
 
It looks like a regular BPM to me. Code 13 should be great for hill climbing. Try it on 36V first, but you may want to eventually go for 48V. There are speed switch connections on the BMSbattery controllers to reduce power/speed. I have a switch that i can flick from low/med/high power. Works great, and so does the cruise control. Low is around 22mph, med 24mph and high is 30mph. Mine is a code10 though.

Agree with Dave on your max speed.

Did you specify you wanted a code13?
 
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