In the below image, the red wire that goes vertical in the image is where those fuses are. Which are where the 2 sides are joined, I think. I'm not sure. It wasn't really hot. I really don't know what happened. I was just freaked out that I messed up your battery. I would hate for that to happen. I just hope that removing that fuse doesn't cause any further damage. http://11.a.hostable.me/images/battery_taken_apart_small.jpg
If it wasn't hot, then that means current flow is what blew the fuse. If it is in that center red wire, that is battery charger positive. I don't know how it could get a high enough current to blow the fuse in that wire, as I don't think the charger is that high a current capacity. (unless there is an intermittent short in that wire to something else in the pack).
The other red wire is, I think, battery output positive, and that defnitely sees way mroe than 5A in just normal use. So I don't imagine it could have those fuses in it (besides which it has the 40A external fuse, too).
I wouldn't worry about damaging the pack too much, as it isn't one that I use often--mostly for testing these days, or powering things around the house. I learned the hard way over the years: don't loan things out that I can't afford to lose or have damaged.
I also try never to borrow anything from anyone, as many of my uses for things is not normal and often breaks things.
I put a tape measure on the ground, and used the valve stem to measure one revolution. It's just weird they are so far off....almost 10%. Had the same issue with a little bike computer that was on my Trek roadbike. It was also off compared to the GPS app.
If you are off in wheel measurement by only few mm, that adds or subtracts that much distance to every wheel revolution, which could end up causing a large distance error by the end of 11+ miles. There's nearly 700 revolutions of the wheel for every mile on a 29" wheel. Adds up quick.
Oh and regarding my brilliant (read: stupid) dashboard idea. I ripped all that crap off. It was just too much wires and I'm too cheap to do it the right way, ie with good connectors and LED's and such. Plus I had wicked interference with the AM signal while running the bike motor. I'm just going to run Cateye headlights and taillights (2 of each). I like the blink pattern on these taillights and they have a motion feature, so I don't need to remember to turn them on and off. I'll run them on rechargeable batteries and use an 8 bank charger to charge them. Pics to come when all the stuff has arrived and is installed. Just need to find a good place for my controller. And a way to mount my phone. I like to see my split times about halfway through my commute and taking it out of my pocket is annoying.
A dashboard can be useful to integrate everything, and I have planned several of them but built none, usually due to time, sometimes because I didn't have all the parts I wanted to use. Regarding connectors, you can usually salvage all sorts of them off of old scrapped electronics. I've used many old computer power supplies for their cabling and connectors, and salvaged the other end of the connectors from dead computer boards and drives. My first working ebike, DayGlo Avenger, used an ATX power connector with many pins paralleled for all the interconnects between controller, battery, throttle, etc., so I could easily take the motor/controller panel off the bike for service/etc. Worked fine for my purposes.
There are phone mounts for bikes, but I don't know what they cost. A fairly simple mount would be to use a stretchy skin for the phone, and secure the skin's back to the bike, preferably to a flat panel like your dashboard. Zip ties up and around the back layer of the skin would probably work as a quick cheap solution.
If you'd like some thin aluminum to cut and bend into a "better" dashboard, I have a few pieces off an old networking box, and can give one to you to experiment with next time you come by.