-bored off my a** waiting for my wounds to finish healing still.
Riding the MT trike #1 is no fun, not being able to pedal.
Its' front fork is pretty much bent out of shape as is the front hub motors' wheel rim
..so I'll ramble about nothing in particular.
To new readers the My Trike project
took a few months and took a few detours to get a tricycle that suited me. (and my particular disabilities)
It's top speed with the front hub motor driven from a 23A controller and a 36V LiCo (LiPo) (whateveh) battery pack is exactly where my local laws demand... 20mph. This is what I deem to be "a good thing" since I'd rather ride the trike like an un-powered trike. That includes not having to pay attention to a Speed-0-meter while cruising the bike paths etc.
WOT (wide open throttle) will never be faster than the legal speed limit of 20mph on the flats.
Downhill don't count
To climb the taller mountain grades in my area I chose to use a Currie-type geared-brushed motor as a 'helper' motor.
It's top speed (set by gearing) is 8-ish mph. It drives the trikes' rear axle via a jackshaft.
All dollars spent on the My Trike (MT#1) was closely watched because I know you actually cannot build an electric bike cheaper than buying one, unless you can give your home-built-thingy a significant increase in performance.
Using two motors gives my built-thingy a significant increase in performance
I spent about 2300 dollars building the first My Trike that included all my errors in judgment. We pays for our errors.
Sans batteries the My Trike #2 is only a few hundred dollars cheaper than the My Trike #1, meaning I didn't make that many errors in judgment (except for the purple pom-pom streamers- THAT was a big mistake).
My Trike#1 needs sum fix'n before it's able to do long road trips again, (crashed it a few too many times) but since I no longer have a motor vehicle capable of travel I need to keep the My Trike (MT#1) operational enough to forage for sustenance, including tasty beverages.
I may or mayn't make the My Trike #2 (MT#2) my long-range trike because I'm unsure of the NuVinci hub thingy.
So once #2 is operational I'll get around to replacing the front fork and front rim on MT#1
I continue to chart my use of hobbyking LiPo batteries.
Early tests indicated it would be wise to never come close to more than a 50% discharge. In this way the individual cells remain in perfect balance.
I now only test the individual cell voltages about once every two weeks... no problems, no imbalances and I don't parallel the batteries at a cell-level... only from the discharge leads.
For long distance riding I have 45Ah @ 36V available for the front hub motor with an additional 10Ah for the Currie motor (My1018),
I'm considering adding the 10Ah batteries to the 45Ah packs (for 55Ah @36V) and only using one battery path for both motors, but I haven't gotten around to experimenting with that yet.
Some things I also do that most members of this forum advise against includes:
- using random automotive-type 20-30A rated spst and spdt switches for the battery pack outputs. No pre-charge crap because with a 23A controller (and I suspect, any of the higher-powered controllers) do not have enough input capacitance to cause enough short-term damage to a heavy-duty switch.
- Neutrik SpeakON connectors for battery pack discharge/bulk charge ports, because there is no pulling or pushing on the wiring and the connector includes a locking-type mechanism.
- using controller off/on switches because they make your life that much simpler... really.
- I like pedalec systems. With no damaged body tissue to deal with I pedal 100% of the time on my e-machines. If there is an operational pedalec system that means I don't have to use a throttle. Riding an e-powered trike/bike just like an un-powered trike/bike is a joy only I seem to in-joy.
- and maybe because I like to pedal I prefer un-sensored motor/controllers. My only experience is with newer versions of these systems and they work almost flawlessly. Smooth starts with even the slightest forward motion of the motored-wheel.
Un-sensored motor/controller systems have less chance of failure by a factor of 5 lil' wires and 3 crappy hall sensors.
...It's one of several reasons I still use brushed motors when I deem the brushed motor would provide a better solution.
- I prefer a battery pack with no bms. I wrote a bunch of reasons why but decided to retract them because this only really suits myself.
and if I ever have a failure (switches/batteries/motors/controllers) I'll let you know *knocks on wood*