Who makes this torque arm???

Floont

1 kW
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Messages
439
Location
Tampa, Florida
It's funny how you can order stuff and keep every email and piece of paper, but cannot find what you're looking for when the time comes to get another.

So I am asking the general population... Who makes this torque arm???


 
TorqArmRev4.jpg
 
THANKS!!!

That's the confirmation I was looking for.
 
Or they've copied it already. Buy yours from Grin Cycles of course.
 
dogman said:
Or they've copied it already. Buy yours from Grin Cycles of course.
Methtek has them too if Floont might prefer to pay US vs Canada postage.
 
bowlofsalad said:
mark5 said:
dogman said:
Or they've copied it already. Buy yours from Grin Cycles of course.
Methtek has them too if Floont might prefer to pay US vs Canada postage.

I wish I had known that a few days ago.
Don't feel bad--I'm the one who once paid $15 Canada Post postage for a $4 C-washer.

Plus that torque arm costs $12 less now than when I bought mine.
 
I would actually consider getting that TIG welded instead of the nut and bolt. Probably $50 extra around here but......... if it spins you need to rewire. I think except for custom by John in CR or Farfle that one by Justin is as good as a rear torque arm gets. Just dont like the bolt! Why won't the motor companies copy Heinzmann?
otherDoc
 

I use two. One for each side of the bike. So as long as I inspect the bike before each ride, I should be OK... even with a bolt.

The problem right now is I only have one installed at present, so I have to limit jackrabbit starts and high torque situations until my new torque arm comes in.
 
Floont said:

I use two. One for each side of the bike. So as long as I inspect the bike before each ride, I should be OK... even with a bolt.

The problem right now is I only have one installed at present, so I have to limit jackrabbit starts and high torque situations until my new torque arm comes in.

Do you use nord lock washers? It's starting to seem apparent to me that without nord lock washers, the only viable option would involve either epoxy or welding.

Does your torque arm obstruct any part of the rear derailleur? Mine does and I am not sure what to do to get around it. Right now I am considering either creating the gap I need with nord lock washers, or using an angle grinder to get the small amount of metal out of the way on either the derailleur or the torque arm.
 
bowlofsalad said:
Do you use nord lock washers? It's starting to seem apparent to me that without nord lock washers, the only viable option would involve either epoxy or welding.

Does your torque arm obstruct any part of the rear derailleur? Mine does and I am not sure what to do to get around it. Right now I am considering either creating the gap I need with nord lock washers, or using an angle grinder to get the small amount of metal out of the way on either the derailleur or the torque arm.
I no longer use a derailleur, I use a chain tensioner... which can be found online anywhere. The chain tensioner doesn't interfere with the torque arm.

Regarding washers, I don't use them, I use "nylock" nuts, which grab the bolt tightly to keep it from loosening (unless you've used them too many times).
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=mgwmuZuJ02I#!

I don't know if you've seen this video, but they perform vibration tests with various kinds of locking options such as the nylon nut. It's a pretty compelling video. I'd still suggest checking the tightness of the nut, even if your torque arm was glued to your bike.

I am guessing some people give up some or most of their ability to shift gears as they feel it is pretty close to unecessary. But I see a well kept bicycle apart from the electric components as a great safety net. Even if the battery is dead, even if the controller goes wrong or who knows, you still have a backup option. It's a huge selling point for myself, never being stranded. I've seen people walking with their red container for a gallon of gasoline. I've even given them a ride or two. No such thing with an ebike short of something wrong with the bike itself.
 
If you need it, don't hesitate to grind a small amount of metal away to properly fit the torque arm. But don't grind away enough to weaken it.

It's not so obvious at first, but bear in mind that the use of more than one clamp on the other end of the torque arm goes a long way too prevent the design from relying entirely on the tightness of the nut. If the piece on the stay cannot pry away, the joint at the bolt can't rotate.

The one failure of this type of arm I've seen so far was the axle rotating inside the main plate. The axle was not a tight fit in that case, and got moving enough to wallow out the plate.
 
bowlofsalad said:
Do you use nord lock washers?...

Where can you purchase nord lock washers???

I watched the video and I'm convinced they are superior in vibration situations.

FA
 
Back
Top