The Crown TC65 - Its here!

S

sacko

10 kW
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
840
Location
Kent, United Kingdom
Wow this motor looks sweet.

Apologies for the poor pictures, its late and I have used my phone.

I was hoping to use this with my 24s setup, but im not sure if this is going to be suitable..... we'll see!













 
Now that's a BAD BOY... looking forward to see what you do with this!

Subscribed !


BTW is this still a 135mm dropout motor?

I'm already planning my next off road build and this seems like a fit if I can use a 7 speed freewheel on my new Full suspension frame.

Got a batch of 18 fet controllers from greentime that I'm eager to test out with one of these motors.
 
Hot damn that thin is Huuuuuge :shock:
I really hope you get this bike up and running sometime soon. I bet we are just as anxious as you are. Have fun and good luck with the build 8)
 
Thanks guys :)

At the moment I am half tempted to put it in my Carrera Kraken build just to test it out.

If it 100% worked on 24s it would already be in the dropouts!
 
sacko said:
If it 100% worked on 24s it would already be in the dropouts!
Click to expand...
That shouldn't be a problem so hard to solve :wink:
Sorry I'm not familiar with this motor. I see some extra wires apart of the phase and hall, what are they?
 
I am only concerned by these comments, but Kenny assures me it is fine at 100v.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=48207&start=25#p729789

I am hoping it is for a temp sensor, but have emailed Kenny for clarification.
 
Problem to load the images?

Doc
 
I'm with you Doc - can't see em. Some workplaces block photobucket and youtube. Mine particularly. :(

Will check it on my mobile phone and see if the images appear... :twisted:
 
Samd said:
I'm with you Doc - can't see em. Some workplaces block photobucket and youtube. Mine particularly. :(

Will check it on my mobile phone and see if the images appear... :twisted:
Click to expand...

The pics work fine on my Android mobile. Photobucket added to the list of blocked sites by the corporate fun police.
Thankyou ES Android App! :twisted:
 
Ok i can see them i'm at home. :wink:

btw, these big motor look powerfull but if you really want to enjoy them with alot of power an upgrade of the phase wire should be considered.

the stock 12 gauge wire can melyt pretty easy!

I was really surprized that RAPHZ400 melted his 12 gauge teflon wires on his 5403 ! :lol: with the 250A Kelly.

He came in my lab yesterday for a little Doc upgrade :wink: and we installed some 10 gauge wire ( turnigy silicon wire) and a temp sensor on the winding. curiously the motor winding was smelling like a new motor should smell, no darker color, but the 12 gauge teflon skin melted! so i think the motor thermal inertia is pretty big! wich is a good sign.

Remember that normally teflon melt at 260 celsius! :shock:

Oh.. and no real need to install SB50 too big connector they look ugly on the swing arm ! the Anderson PP45 or PP30 do the job well with 10 gauge at up to 300A burst

DOc

Doc
 
Doctorbass said:
Oh.. and no real need to install SB50 too big connector they look ugly on the swing arm ! the Anderson PP45 or PP30 do the job well with 10 gauge at up to 300A burst

Doc
Click to expand...

I find it incomprehensible to believe that a connector rated at 45A continuous is acceptable in enduring the continuous phase currents you guys force into these big hub motors let alone 300A bursts!!! The surface area of PP45 contacts is a small radial edge - tiny - even if it is silver plated. Compared with an gold plated 8mm bullet connector which to my eye looks like a much better proposition for compact high current connectors. I wonder what sort of wattage loss due to high resistance joints you guys are experiencing with undersized connectors.....by acceptance through denial/ignorance/trend rather than with the benefit of an informed decision through testing.

Just because the plastic casing of a PP45 doesn't melt at 300A bursts, doesn't mean it should be considered acceptable if its a mini heater..
 
Thanks guys, ill be replacing the connectors with bullets; not really a fan of Andersons.

I would love to change the phase wires, but at the power level I will be running it at, there probably isn't much point.

Kenny has replied, it is temp sensor :)

Anyone know if this works with a CA v3?

 
boostjuice said:
Doctorbass said:
Oh.. and no real need to install SB50 too big connector they look ugly on the swing arm ! the Anderson PP45 or PP30 do the job well with 10 gauge at up to 300A burst

Doc
Click to expand...

I find it incomprehensible to believe that a connector rated at 45A continuous is acceptable in enduring the continuous phase currents you guys force into these big hub motors let alone 300A bursts!!! The surface area of PP45 contacts is a small radial edge - tiny - even if it is silver plated. Compared with an gold plated 8mm bullet connector which to my eye looks like a much better proposition for compact high current connectors. I wonder what sort of wattage loss due to high resistance joints you guys are experiencing with undersized connectors.....by acceptance through denial/ignorance/trend rather than with the benefit of an informed decision through testing.

Just because the plastic casing of a PP45 doesn't melt at 300A bursts, doesn't mean it should be considered acceptable if its a mini heater..
Click to expand...

I understand your point, but think about it: even if we could lost 50 watts in the connector, that 50 watt would melt it in a minute!... here is some interesting data from the PDF datasheet of these connectors:
UL Ground Short Time Current Test - 45A Premate Ground
750 Amps, #10 AWG Wire 4 Seconds
470 Amps, #12 AWG Wire 4 Seconds

I can live with the few watts lost momentanously.

Ex: Zero motorcycles are using SB50 connector at the battery of their zero X 2009 and these are using gauge 6 for the 300A controller!... Personally i have tested contionuously these sb50 for 100A continuous and they work well. it's depend alot of the wire size you use with! that wire is responsible alot for the heat dissipation and current rating of the contact.

Doc
 
Every current loss is a power loss with heat as a bonus. I use 8ga silver tinned wire and 75 A connectors, since I've melted 10ga before. I don't use any connectors on the swingarm anymore either. My motors now have a long wire harness all the way to the controller, limiting the number of connectors is also a good step to optimization. If one want to give a light weight controller a chance to last feeding high power, better to optimize and limit the resistance of the wiring.
 
MadRhino said:
Every current loss is a power loss with heat as a bonus. I use 8ga silver tinned wire and 75 A connectors, since I've melted 10ga before.
Click to expand...
guys the 75 A connecter ar ethe SAME as teh 50A SB50, it's only the connector casing that differ.

MaadRhino, did you need to enlarge the groove in teh axel to have your 8 gauge wires without obstruction in the axel when inserting the bearing?.. It is pretty hard to insert 10 gauge wires with the hall and the temp sensor..

I guess it is not everyone that have the proper tools for enlarging the axel groove to have 3x 8 gauge inside :?


doc
 
Any updates my man? I would have put about 100 miles of torture into this motor already :D
 
Unfortunately, its exactly where I left it last week :/

Im just unsure what to do with it, I am half tempted to buy the Torque Raptor frame.

I currently only have one hardtail frame which has a HT3525 on 24s, I think this motor will just be too much for the frame to take.

If the motor also work on 24s, it would be much easier to swap out; but I am also going to have to change to a 20s config.
 
Funnily enough I was thinking how nice the Raptor with the crown would be. Of course we don't know enough about either the frame or the motor yet :D
 
Jeez mate, thet is Huge !!

Would not trust that on the Kraken frame, what plans do you have re voltage ?
 
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