new ebike.ca controller random cut-outs?

I have just completed my second bike which is sort of going OK, but I've come across a weird intermittent problem that I would value some ideas about. I have one of the new ebikes.ca sensor/sensorless Infineon controllers with the little red flashing light on it (It flashes red at rest, and then goes out when you throttle on - flashes again when you stop...)

After I ride the bike for a while - and it varies between a minute or two and 15 minutes, the controller just turns off - never when riding under load, it's only ever done it when stopped. You stop for a minute, and the controller switches off, so when you go to pull away, it doesn't work any more. (weirdly, it seems to be when I get off the bike at home - it has never happened at stop lights, or intersections! - surely this must be just coincidence!).

I just turn it off, disconnect the power, reconnect the power and turn it back on and it works again just fine.

Any brilliant ideas?

Perhaps it is some controller issue with the connections - I am running a home-made button-throttle- so I will switch to a hall thumb-throttle and see if that makes any difference.

I am also using my new battery which I built from parts from evassemble. Perhaps the BMS is cutting out supply for some reason, or something. I will have to try a voltmeter jammed into the supply to ensure it's getting power to the controller the whole time. Perhaps it's the Anderson connection btw the battery and the controller? But I jiggled that around and it didn't seem to cut out at all.

All in all, very weird. Any more thoughts?

TIA - Kabbage

You are sort of breaking new ground here - these controllers are pretty new and so there isn't a huge pool of experience to draw upon.

Is the LED supposed to flash or is that possibly an error code like 'Throttle out of range'? That might make sense since when you are underway the throttle would definitely be 'in range'. Just a thought...

To be honest, the fastest path to resolution is probably to email ebikes.ca and just refer them to this post. That will tell the tale and link them to your custom throttle info. Anyhow, if you follow that path it would be good if you could post back with the resolution.

if you just built a battery from parts i would expect that is the source of the problem. can you post up a picture of the battery and the BMS?

teklektik said:

You are sort of breaking new ground here - these controllers are pretty new and so there isn't a huge pool of experience to draw upon.

Is the LED supposed to flash or is that possibly an error code like 'Throttle out of range'? That might make sense since when you are underway the throttle would definitely be 'in range'. Just a thought...

To be honest, the fastest path to resolution is probably to email ebikes.ca and just refer them to this post. That will tell the tale and link them to your custom throttle info. Anyhow, if you follow that path it would be good if you could post back with the resolution.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I was wondering if the flash was actually an error code - hence I'll try it with a more conventional throttle and see. I guess I was just trying to get a sense if anyone was experiencing any oddities with these controllers since they are so new.

I have also contacted ebikes.ca, of course - but thought I'd run a parallel path of enquiry!

dnmun said:

if you just built a battery from parts i would expect that is the source of the problem. can you post up a picture of the battery and the BMS?

Click to expand...

The battery build is documented here http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=52349#p799030.

The headways and BMS are from evassemble; the BMS is here: http://www.evassemble.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=211.

The reason that leads me to believe it is probably *not* the BMS or battery is that it runs perfectly fine while riding along. The bike only 'stops' when I am stopped. If the battery is maintaining full connectivity/power all the while it is riding, even over uneven paths etc. If it were going to 'stop working' I would have expected it to occur while it was being ridden around and the battery was being shaken around a lot.

But still, you never know... As my wife kindly said "well you can't take it back to the shop you bought it from, can you?".... nice one luv.

strange indeed
but many variables involved
my last rig used this controller except it was the old sensored one- it was flawless
was about to order this one as its a dual mode/controller than i might be able to compare
try it with different variables/batt/throttle/etc

Edit; reach out to justin regarding this
also run through the troubleshooting guides on the website....

Well I've changed the throttle over, and it's still doing it. It really is terribly weird.

I also played around with the battery, moving it as much as possible in every direction - it never causes the problem to appear -I don't belive it could be the battery based on that.

Looks like I'm going to have to try out the controller on another bike and vv.

Also, It turns out a flash a second from the LED is perfectly normal.

Just found this on ebikes.ca so thought id share as it's relevant to the thread.
http://ebikes.ca/store/store_controllers.php
What are the other LED sequences?

There are 5 status flash codes indicating different modes of controller operation. Here the LED's will blink quickly a number of times and then pause:

1 Flash: Brake Cutoff Engaged
2 Flashes: Regenerative Braking has been Engaged
3 Flashes: Battery voltage is below the low voltage cutoff
4 Flashes: Controller shut off because motor had stalled
5 Flashes: Throttle voltage fault, or already high when controller powered on

If there is an actual controller fault, then the LED will stay on for a long time and only briefly turn off.

1 Flash: Motor Short Circuit Protection has Engaged
2 Flashes: 15V Regulator Circuit is Damaged
3 Flashes: Throttle Signal Fault (>4.2V)
5 Flashes: Microprocessor is damaged

Notice that there are no flash codes to indicate whether the controller is running in sensored or sensorless modes, and similarly there is no flash sequence for an invalid hall sequence (as happens when one signal is down) or when the controller looses lock in sensorless mode because the electrical RPM was too high. So in practice, the LED codes aren't all that useful in some key fault situations.

Any chance of swapping the battery with your first build (assuming you have it) to rule that out?

Samd said:

Any chance of swapping the battery with your first build (assuming you have it) to rule that out?

Click to expand...

Yeah Sam, that is the plan, my man.

Actually, I'll swap the new controller onto the first build temporarily... Will be Interesting to see how the Crystalyte goes with the sensorless controller too...

was this issue resolved?

davec said:

was this issue resolved?

Click to expand...

Possibly.

After quite a lot of testing with various bits and pieces, it was still doing it. I asked Grin/ebikes.ca if they knew anything. Apparently, they've found that for geared motors which have high RPM motors the controller cannot keep up with the phase switching when it's detecting the back-emf generated in the non used phase, which can cause difficulties.

I had been running it sensorless (because I could), so I plugged in the halls. The problem still appeared (once) - but the motor is much quieter in sensored mode! So that's something to remember. And could explain why I found the little bafang so much louder than I was expecting.

Anyway, today I was putting my lights on, and I got some arcing around the Anderson's - I found that where I had re-terminated the Anderson connectors on the input to the controller had a 'dryish' solder joint - the cable wasn't actually soldered into the connector.

I usually solder the cables into the Anderson connectors before I slide them into the plastic plug, as well as 'crimping' them the best I can with a pair of pliers (I don't have an Anderson crimp tool). The cable just slipped out of the connector! = bad! So I think that must be it. It was staying connected 'most of the time' because it was held together with the second Anderson connector plug (you know how they slide together to 'gang' the plugs).

I haven't had a chance to 'test in anger' now that I have re-terminated it.

I'll post back if it re-appears. Otherwise, problem solvered. (that's a joke for the Aussies) - Finger trouble from me it appears.