which hub motor

29a

100 W
Joined
Nov 26, 2006
Messages
147
Location
Inside your mind
Hi guys
Im ready to order my first conversion kit,
I was going to go with a crystallite 408/4011 dual speed http://www.evsolutions.net/kits.html#2speed 48v 13 ah NiMH
But i notice the controllers 4 dual r only rated at 20 amps.
Do u guy's think i should give this a miss + go with something like the crystallite pheonix http://www.electricrider.com/crystalyte/index.htm ?

R the disc brakes worth having ?
Twist or thumb throttle ?

Any imput is appreciated
 
29a said:
Hi guys
Im ready to order my first conversion kit,
I was going to go with a crystallite 408/4011 dual speed http://www.evsolutions.net/kits.html#2speed 48v 13 ah NiMH
But i notice the controllers 4 dual r only rated at 20 amps.
Do u guy's think i should give this a miss + go with something like the crystallite pheonix http://www.electricrider.com/crystalyte/index.htm ?

R the disc brakes worth having ?
Twist or thumb throttle ?

Any imput is appreciated

Front hub or rear hub motor? If it's rated for 20 amps at 48 volts, that still gives you 960 watts of power. I think that should move the motor without any problems.

Disc brakes are better than cantilever brakes in my opinion, get them if you can, but if you can't don't rule out the cantilever brakes either. I use those on my e-bike and they work just fine for stopping.

Personally, I like the thumb throttle because I can hold it steady during bumps. My twist throttle e-bikes I sometimes loose grip with it while riding, but only over some really bad bumps in the road or while trying to steer sharp for example.

Are you getting an entire kit or waiting to piece it together yourself?
 
If you can convert a bike with trigger shifters, it will be easier to use a twist throttle. I had twist shifters so I removed one of them. The front derailer is held in place by a small block of wood wedged into the cage
 
I think your choice of the dual speed hub sounds good. I would suggest calling EVsolutions and see if you can drop by and tryout the kit on one of their bikes. You are lucky you live in the same town as the company since you can do that and not just have to guess you are making the right decision.
 
Are you getting an entire kit or waiting to piece it together yourself?
Its a build your own kit http://www.ebikeconversions.com/pb/wp_83756b98/wp_83756b98.html?0.3525114252149768
-------------------------------------------------------
The front derailer is held in place by a small block of wood wedged into the cage
Dman Why didn't u just adjust the stop screws ?
--------------------------------------------------------
same town as the company

the rep from EVsolutions in Toronto has nothing in stock the address is just a drop box :(
so i tried http://www.ebikeconversions.com/ the guy has been helpfull so far.
-------------------------------------------------------
The 6 miles a day each way lake side commute 15 mins with the wind to 45 mins against the wind has some hills but the head winds r the real problem + can stop anyone in there tracks even in 1st gear a struggle
Ive read elsewhere that theres not a lota diff between the 408/4011 windings in torque + the same guy said he would have gone 4 a single 409 if he knew what he knows now :!:
So i thk i'll go with the crystalyte 5305 "brute" as Dman sugested (TY)

Thanks all
 
The spring tension was too much for stop screws so I used a block of wood. You can just buy new trigger shifters if you want.
 
Ive decided against the brute. The motor is twice the weight of 400 series + i would have to use SLA's making it to heavy.

why the other guy used 72 volts with the 411 with only 20 amps
What sort of speed did he get :?:
Dman could u plz post the link 4 that thk i missed it
 
Here's some combo's people have used on 26" tire. These were written down by me from prior members tests from a different forum that was hacked:

408 - 60 volts - 27.5 mph - nimh

408 - 72 volts - 32 mph
409 - 72 volts - 30 mph - 20 amp controller
411 - 72 volts - 25 mph

406 - 48 volt - 30 mph nimh - 35 amp controller
407 - 48 volt - 24.8 mph 20 amp controller
408 - 48 volt - 23-24 mph sla 20 amp controller
 
Wouldn't you want a heavy X5 and heavy batteries to help penetrate the wind?
 
The extra weight will give you more momentum, but the problem is, it will take more power to accelerate that momentum to full speed. Head wind slows you down and then on top of the more power it takes to accelerate again, you are fighting the headwind using even more power.

The lighter, the better, the less energy used. The more energy saved that can be used to fight the headwind.
 
I'm jumping onto this thread because my question doesn't warrant one of it's own...

:?: What's a good example of a hub motor that runs at about 350 Watts to 1000 Watts of power that can be purchased (without a rim or spokes) for LESS that $100?

I've got this idea to do a 24 speed gearbox and the hub motor would be the front half of a derailler system with the rear wheel holding the 8 speed cassette.

I DON'T want to pay more than I have to... lowest prices???
 
Ehh! Hello -been off the air for awhile -very dissapointed with V going down -all that wasted info.

The 36-72V 20A controller is very robust -have pulled 27A stock with mine on heavy use!

408/4011 is a nice combo for my uses -but that is in a BBDrive at 88V nominal.

D-Man is right on the speeds and 4011 mode is pretty good economy wise with a short ramp-up in each gear -good at higher voltages.

408 is a killer for dragging off cars and using lots of power at higher voltages.

Have you looked at Knoxies geared hub motor? That sounds wicked!

Who are you D-Man??

Cheers Dom
 
Spoc
 
i have been running a 408/4011 in a 26" front wheel on my mtb at 72v and it is giving me good performance. for the best idea of what to expect from this motor go to ebikes.ca and use justin's excellent simulator.

the only controllers they sell that include a switch for the dual wind motors are rated at 20A. for me that was not enough even at 72v, but i like to climb a 10% hill at 16-17 mph with mild pedal assist. modifying the dual controller to 30A and running at 72v did this for me very well. if you look at the simulator you will find you can get the same performance out of a 72v 35A 4xx series at 72v that you would achieve with the much heavier 5xx at 48v. it's all about what you need...

if running the dual motor i strongly suggest either a modified 20A or a 35A controller with an external switch. the switch needs to carry the motor current so many of us use a relay and a small handlebar switch instead of the controller mounted switch on the dual winding 20A controller.

i have modified several of the dual 20A controllers to 35A and modified a standard 40A with a relay and remote switch. i will do these mods for others for a reasonable price.
 
Back
Top