My New XD 2 speed build - completed

menvert

100 W
Joined
Apr 28, 2014
Messages
218
Location
Brisbane, Australia
I thought I'd post my build for others benefit and and ideas;
This is a light (not superlight) comfort commuter done on the cheap
complete.jpg
Components;
Hasa CR-9 Hybrid;
SHIMANO BR-M375 Mechanical Disc Brakes
SHIMANO TX-51M6 & SHIMANO RD-M360 8 Speed Deraillers
Sunrace 48-38-28 Front
DNP 11-28 on the rear
Sapim 'Strong' Butted 13/14g spokes and Sapim Polyax nipples
Mavic A119 700c 36h Road Rim 2014
Rear hub XD 2 speed '250w' hub @280rpm with disc brakes
12aH 36v LifePo4 battery from BMS 5 years ago
Thumb throttle
HWBS Brake-line brake cut-offs from XD same as this

It runs really nicely, averaging 26-27kpm for my commute, I will be adding a cruise controller shortly too.
EDIT: 24kg total weight, which should come down to about 22 when I get a new lipo brick, and Lyen CC module added now.

Okay some pics;
The XD kit ready to be assembled;
XDKIT.jpg
The controller close-up;
Controller.jpg
I attached the disc, however that black plastic bit should NOT be on there (I have since fixed)
View attachment 14
Finally I laced the wheel 2x pattern;
Laced.jpg
dishing worked out pretty good, still off by about 2-4mm, but happy for my 1st laced wheel, and so much better than my last factory laced wheel, and discs dont care if dishing is off a little;
Dished.jpg
Freewheel from a few angles, I needed the torque washer on the inside for enough clearance;
View attachment 11
View attachment 10

Wheel in the bike,
wheelIn.jpg
Note I had to stretch the rear forks to fit the 147mm (for 7sp) into 135 dropout;
I have made this tool to help with wheel maintenence;
tool.jpg

How freewheel attaches to bike (torque washer on inside);
FreeWheelSpace.jpg
FreeWheelSpaceClsoe.jpg
FreeWheelUnder.jpg

How disc side attaches to bike (torque washer on outside);
DiscSpace.jpg
DiscUnder.jpg
Here are my trek handlebars;

handlebar.jpg
Closeup of the display and handlebar setup

handleclose.jpg
Battery tied to rack, and a makeshift cable container;
battery.jpg
 
Maybe I missed them in your pictures, do you have any torque arms?

Are you sure it was wise to spread your frame's dropouts?
 
bowlofsalad said:
Maybe I missed them in your pictures, do you have any torque arms?

Are you sure it was wise to spread your frame's dropouts?

No torque arms, never used them before on my 350w and this is 250w rated motor, I always saw them as being more necessary for either very high power or for front forks.
re: spreading the rear dropouts, not a lot of choice, too few frames support 145mm, My previous eBike is spreaded out quite a bit more in an alloy frame too, still good after about 5 years, certainly not recommended, but I think there are many on this site who have had to do this with no issue.
 
I've stretched a few frames. I don't believe it does any harm. My method is to use something like two planks of wood. You put them right down to the bottom bracket and then drive a wedge between them with a heavy hammer or mallet. You need to go at least 50mm wider than your target width, so something like 200mm total, and they'll spring back to take a permanent set at about 145-150mm. Aluminium alloy can be deformed like that; however, it work-hardens, so you can't do it more than a couple of times. You can't stretch aluminium frames with 20" wheels that far because they're relatively much stiffer.

A comment about the above bike. Standard racks hold the battery too far back. It really needs to be right up against the seat-post and as low as possible for best handling. I'd put the spare wire and controller in one of those triangular tool bags at the top rear of the frame triangle, and I'd make my own rack to get the battery in the right position. To make a rack is very easy with some aluminium tube and a piece of plywood.



 
Ah nice that rack looks good and still allows for rear shockies.

This is temporary for me, my last bike was always a rack mount and, yes it sucks so much having all that weight up back.
I was planning on a new battery soon and/or I was going to get a triangle bag and mount it in the triangle.
But I might get a bottle mount instead...still not sure if a lipo brick or bottle lion pack is better right now, I'llhopefully do a renge test tomorrow and see what this old battery does on a charge. Either way I am planning Li-NiCoMn to cut weight compared to my lifep04
 
spinningmagnets said:
What length of spokes did you order for the 2-cross pattern?
That's very dependent on your rim, I used a calculator - http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/spoke-calc.html
Came out as 258 and 260 (shorter on one side for dishing) for me that meant max angle was over 81 degrees, and the sapim nipples can still seat perfectly at 9 degrees, so 2x times was ideal for me. I didn't want radial spokes especially with disc where you want proper pull in both directions.
 
Nice thread, perhaps belongs in the Pictures section, if you'd like me to move it there.

Good clear pictures of all, I love that. Like the frame flexer. For those not clear on this, not bending the frame out permanently, just flexing the stays. 6 mm no problem for most alloy bikes, 3mm flex on each side.

If you haven't used up the spokes threads, you might be able to dish it more centered. Just loosen one side a full turn, and tighten the other a full turn, see what you get.

This two speed motor looks to be a great solution for those that don't want more than a few hundred watts. The low speed gear gets it up hill without smoking the motor like a fast wind 200w motor might.
 
dogman said:
Nice thread, perhaps belongs in the Pictures section, if you'd like me to move it there.

Good clear pictures of all, I love that. Like the frame flexer. For those not clear on this, not bending the frame out permanently, just flexing the stays. 6 mm no problem for most alloy bikes, 3mm flex on each side.

If you haven't used up the spokes threads, you might be able to dish it more centered. Just loosen one side a full turn, and tighten the other a full turn, see what you get.

This two speed motor looks to be a great solution for those that don't want more than a few hundred watts. The low speed gear gets it up hill without smoking the motor like a fast wind 200w motor might.
Hello and thanks for comments, if you think it belongs in pics by all means move it.
I think I have a couple turns left in the thread, but not a big issue being disc, maybe next time I fully remove it for some work.
Yeah being able to switch to a lower gear is great it gets me up the small but very steep hill near my home, that I used to have to walk up
 
very cool....very clever looking tool to stretch out frame a little bit...very cool....congrats on your build. like how you made the battery holder on back too...very cool.
 
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