HT3525 V Cro v3 Question

Jonboy

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Hi Guys, just wondering if someone could help with my motor dilema.

I currently run my raptor with an 18 fet lyen controller on 24s 3p 15000mah/99v fresh off

the charger.

My motor is an over volted HT3525, which is great but the raptor is crying for a little

more go !

Actual top speed of the crystalyte is 44mph on the flat(26"wheel) this is fine and in top

gear I can cruze pedal assisted by throttle at 20mph which is also fine for how I like to get
about.

I'd like the cromotor for more power when off roading and hooning about!

But my question is:

Between the over volted HT3525 and a Cro V3 when I'm cruzing using the throttle to pedal

assist me at 20mph, which is most efficient?

OK I don't mind the cro chewing my batteries when I'm having some fun but really don't

want to sacrifice the batteries capacity/duration when pedalling/cruzing.

Hope someone can get there Techy head around my dilema...

Cheers

Jon
 
The HT will be slightly more efficient cruising at low speed, for it is a slower winding and a lighter weight motor. For power, top speed and acceleration they are in a completely different class, and the cromotor will have better efficiency if you cruise at higher speed.
 
Jonboy said:
...

I'm a little worried that my 15000mah capacity is not going to cut it with the Cro... :(
Your 24s3p of Lipos can easily feed the cromotor to its saturation current. My 18 fet conrtollers are mod to pull 150 A battery current and I ride with only 24s1p of Lipos most of the time.

If you worry about the range, then it is up to you to ride accordingly. You can feed your cromotor full power and ride 100 Kmh for 20 minutes, or ride reasonably and go for max range that should be only a little shorter than your actual setup with the HT.
 
MadRhino said:
Jonboy said:
...

I'm a little worried that my 15000mah capacity is not going to cut it with the Cro... :(
Your 24s3p of Lipos can easily feed the cromotor to its saturation current. My 18 fet conrtollers are mod to pull 150 A battery current and I ride with only 24s1p of Lipos most of the time.

If you worry about the range, then it is up to you to ride accordingly. You can feed your cromotor full power and ride 100 Kmh for 20 minutes, or ride reasonably and go for max range that should be only a little shorter than your actual setup with the HT.

That's just what I wanted to here.. ! But in theory this would mean the mxus3000 would be even less detrimental to my cells and sit somewhere in between ... ARgh!!! decisions !
 
I don't know about the Mxxus, I never had any of them. What I know is that my Demo 8 had been running and killing many motors before I set it with a cromotor 1, and it has done over 35000Km with this cromotor yet, both on and off road, summer and winter. I have not a slight hesitation to recommend a cromotor, my Session 10 has the cromotor 2 and the one I am building this winter will also have a cromotor. The only slow winding that I still run is an X 5404 on my Santacruz V10, that is the mule that I ride in bad conditions, and a guest bike the rest of the time.
 
Hey MR looked at your bike pics, it looks as if you prefer 24" MTB wheels rather than moto.. If that's the case, have you had may pinch flats ? Have you tried the Halo Contra? If I don't go Moto rim this is the chunkiest tyre I can find. It looks like I'll go with the Cro.. Shame It only takes one sprocket though I'm sure I've seen on here someone managing to fit a 3 or 4 speed freewheel on?

Thanks for your input

Jon
 
I have both an hs3540 and a cromotor. The Cro uses 15% less energy to go the same distance at the same speed, it's way under stressed compared to the crystalyte which is overworked. Stator temp on arrival at work is 35c on Cro, 117c on the hs3540! Same route, power settings and riding style on same bike/battery/controller on consecutive days.

Cro is superior in every respect other than weight.
 
I would recommend the MXUS 4T in a 17" Moped Rim. Run standard DOT tires, which for a 17" rim will be ~22.5" in Diameter, and provide ample torque most likely.
If the Speed is TOO high, you could always drop the voltage down to 18S-20S (depends on your pack configurations), at which point you will get decent regen out of your Lyen 18FET Controller. Phase amps on the 4T could run as high as 2.5X Battery Amps, but that might require upgrading the phase wires to 10AWG.
 
Jonboy said:
Hey MR looked at your bike pics, it looks as if you prefer 24" MTB wheels rather than moto.. If that's the case, have you had may pinch flats ? Have you tried the Halo Contra? If I don't go Moto rim this is the chunkiest tyre I can find. It looks like I'll go with the Cro.. Shame It only takes one sprocket though I'm sure I've seen on here someone managing to fit a 3 or 4 speed freewheel on?

Thanks for your input

Jon
Well I am all about performance. Heavy wheels and tires are crap for that matter, they are for those who are insecure and target bomb proof reliability. :wink:

The first cromotor I've had, I built it in a Halo SAS, 12ga spokes with washers at the flange and nipples. It is the one that survived 35000Km of hard riding. It is now re-built in a MTX 39 with 14ga spokes and washers at both flange and nipples. Combined with a lighter tire, that makes for a well noticeable performance improvement, it may not survive as long but I will be perfectly happy if it does half the mileage.

My cromotor 2 was laced in a DX 32, that is still very good after about 7 000 Km. Now that the season is over, I am going to re-lace it in a Chris Holm trial rim.

The only motor that I have riding in a 26" wheel is the X 5404. Please consider that I am riding big tires, so my 24" wheels are really 25.5" and my 26" is 28" OD.

You can build a light weight wheel that is reliable riding hard with high power but it has to be perfect, and it is PITA to make all those custom washers. DH tires will never be as reliable as DOT tires, but their grip and weight are very important for performance. Their short life is the price to pay for better speed and acceleration in the mountain. After they are worn out in the mountain, they make good street tires for a while.

My first cromotor after being laced in a Halo SAS:
webcam2012021510331.png
 
Well the bad news.. yet another pinch flat hitting some steps hard .. crazy bob got wacked!!

Good News.. got a Cro V3 on the way! - (Must say.. so far V slick dealing with Accountant on here. 8) )

So do I go halo 24" rim / 12g with contra.... Or

This;
http://www.smprowheels.co.uk/rims/motocross-enduro/senior/sm-pro-rim-19-x-1-85-36-black.html

10g with a shinko or cst c186

I just can't be dealing with flats when I start to bolok it!

MR I take it onboard regarding the rolling inertia, it's difficult to guess how much the difference would be...

Any thoughts on my question of a 3-4-5 speed frewheel that I'm sure someones fitted on here?

Cheers

jon
 
Jonboy said:
Well the bad news.. yet another pinch flat hitting some steps hard .. crazy bob got wacked!!
Pinch flats are because of tire PSI too low for the terrain that you ride. If you want to ride rough terrain with low tire pressure, you need a lot of slime in your tubes... and to accept spending a lot of time and money on wheel maintenance.

Proper suspension tuning and adequate tire pressure are making your bike ready to ride the rough fast and hard.
 
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