Wow great to see some interest in this thread.
Racer_x
You can also ask if he can ship SAL. That will lower the shipping price to about 110 usd. For me SAL would be awesome cuzz it flies under the radar of the Customs Authorities here in Sweden.
So are you satisfied with his answers? Are you going to order his hub motor soon?
Thanks for the suggestion on lowering the shipping. 250 for this motor in any wheel you want with upgraded axle/4mm phase wires and temp sensor make it a great deal. The only thing that makes it not worth it is the shipping.
Is that SAL shipping ~110 usd for both motor/wheels or for one?
And I'm not sure if I am actually going to buy them. I would like to, but I just gotta mxus V1 3000w 4t and a 18fet Infineon to go with it.
I'm going to try the mxus on this build first. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=65638
And if the gasser has too hard of a time moving this giant hubbie
, I'll prob go with these motors.
I was originally going to go with this 1500w motor but I though I should do the 3000w cause of the big dropouts and the big&heavy bike. I know with that logic I should have got a crow but money money money.
Just waiting on spokes, washers, and rim to get the mxus on the bike.
O and a new transmission for the gasser since I broke the last one
Nubuo
I've seen so far that an upgrade in the phase wires in those 9c motors are a common request. What is the "thing"? For a common build with a 48V 20A max battery, phase wires get to hot? to much electric resistance? Thank You in advance
Yes, stock phase wires are a bottle neck for the guy trying to "hot rod" or push there hub to it's max instantaneous watt limit. It matters more for a lower turn count motor since they have thicker/lower restistance windings. With a higher wind/more turn's motor, it is not as important to have thicker phase wires because as you increase the number of turns the thickness of the windings go's down and the resistance go's up. With the really high turn count motors, probably having a higher resistance in the motor winds than in the stock phase wires. (I think) If your running a 48v 20A
controller (not battery), you really don't need to worry about the phase wires. (unless you've modified your controller to push higher phase amps) It's more for if your trying to take that 9c (i'm assuming 1000w) and upgrading your controller to 45amp and higher voltages. Those 9c from what I understand can handle momentary burst over 3kw and 1200-1500w continuous.
John in CR
Always much appreciated to have someone with your extensive experience drop some knowledge/opinions my way.
Ask for the motor test report for the 1500W motor. The one with the 90.5% peak efficiency is the 1000W motor according to the headings on the report itself.
I seen that too, in the header. I just assumed it was for the 1500w motor also, since most of the time they are just too lazy to take separate pictures and list separate specs for there different products if they only differ in one way. But in the email he reiterated that this one had the better quality laminations. That plus higher copper fill is what makes it higher efficiency right? I will try to get the report though.
It's good to see that someone is making a 3 turn motor as their standard.
Yes so you derived the same interpretation to the 731 rpm option as I did. So the 731 is 3 turn. The 600 rpm would be 4 turn right? Is 500 rpm 5 or 6 turn? Is the 400 rpm 6 or 8 turn. 300 rpm, well I don't care after 400 rpm I guess. :lol:
See if you can get to tooth/slot count for the stator.
me:
Do you have different windings available?
What is the thickness of the magnet laminations?
leaf bike:
* Yes,we can make different windings.
Magnat: 46pcs 35mm height.
Does this answer your question?
One manufacturer was talking about a reduced tooth count stator to go with higher quality thinner steel lams.
Really? Is 46 a reduced tooth count? I thought that was pretty standard. But I really don't know. I'm still new to a lot of this stuff.
I didn't see much info at all on the Alibabba sight. I just began to email them last night so we'll see what I can get outta them. Haven't checked back yet, but will keep ya'll posted.
So John I thought you might of liked when I asked for there recommendation for the big o fat 29" OD tire, and they said the higher turn count/slower wind/high torque (MITH) motor. After reading many of your post about how all motors are capable of the same torque and playing with the simulator a lot I totally agree with you. But... :lol:
I am never going to go with smaller OD tire for this build period. (except for maybe a 21" moto rim some day)
I already have a china controller I bought last summer collecting dust and I want to get some use outta.
It's 72V 40A, with 100V caps and 15 4410 fets. So It'll do 96V ~45A right? They said this controller has regen, 3speed and a automatic cruise function. (said once you hold throttle for 8 seconds it will automatically set cruise)
Here are some pics...
I'm hoping I can get some info on this controller.
Like what wires do what? And if this controller is programmable?
Of course I know what the hall, phase and battery wires are.
And I'm pretty sure:
The 3 wire plug black, red and blue is the 3 speed switch.
The 3 wire plug red, white and black is the throttle switch.
The 1 peach wire is the on/off switch.
I'm less sure about the rest.
Are the 2 white wires connected together the regen enable wires or are they a way of enabling auto cruise?
Are the 2 green wire for auto cruise or regen or for high brake and low brake?
Then that just leaves the 2 wire black and white?
The 1 wire green with yellow stipe?
And finally the 2 white wires that go to the blue plug with a screw in it. Is this a fuse or switch or a way to program?
So my question to you John is, since I am going to be happy with 45mph, (more is always better but with no suspension yet, this is plenty fast) I will be running 29" OD tires, and the amp limit on this controller,
Isn't a higher turn count more appropriate for this specific build/application?
Or what is your recommendations for me. Please don't tell me to go to a smaller wheel. I completely understand why this is the golden ticket for all hub motors and I have plans for a future build that will heed these recommendations. But taking into account the big tire, the controller and most of the time I cruise at about 22.5mph,
Do you still recommend a lower turn count motor or which one do you recommend? I was thinking because this controller is more amp limited than voltage limited I would used a higher turn motor at 72V then if I wanted more speed, find out how to set the LVC higher so I can still regen and run 84 or 96V. wesnewell sais he's been running the same controller for 2 years at 96V.
Any and all input is much appreciated.
Sorry for the massive post, but in this stage of the game I have just enough knowledge to be dangerous.
I can't afford to not be thorough
diggles
