How to get the proper advice, read before asking

General Discussion about electric bicycles.
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tomjasz
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Re: How to get the proper advice, read before asking

Post by tomjasz » Jan 03, 2017 12:59 pm

wesnewell wrote:I would not find any of those bikes suitable to electrify. All aluminum frames and short vertical dropouts. And I'd still have to replace the rims and other stuff to get a proper fit. Probably very good bikes if you want a pedal only bike. Not worth a crap to electrify imo.
Without having seen them? OK, but there are actually some nice setups with decent gear at low prices.
Thanks Justin_le we're here thanks to you. All the best to the mods for their tireless work keeping it on an even keel.

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wesnewell
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Re: How to get the proper advice, read before asking

Post by wesnewell » Jan 03, 2017 3:08 pm

That must have been a custom swingarm because the V2100 stock swingarm is aluminum. I have never used torque arms and never had a problem even with the MXUS 3000 that I got from you a couple of years ago. I do use jam nuts on the inside of the dropouts along with the stock torque washers. I won't buy a bike with aluminum dropouts, at least not to electrify.
Need Advice? https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... =3&t=66302
Mongoose 26" Ledge 2.1 mtb bike $99, yescomusa.com 48V 1000W rear hub kit $200, Hua Tong 72V 40A controller $35, 10ah 24s lipo $217=~43mph, range=45 miles @ 20mph. 25K miles and still going strong.
Huffy Fortress 3.0 with MXUS 3000 4T motor, 24s lipo, 96V 60A controller. Total cost with extras <$700. Top speed ~50mph
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Re: How to get the proper advice, read before asking

Post by teslanv » Jan 03, 2017 3:32 pm

Being Aluminum does not disqualify a frame from being used an an electric conversion. Aluminum frames are perfectly capable of handling the stresses of a high-powered hub motor provided an adequate steel torque arm solution is implemented.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 11&t=84363

And yes, that swing arm is a steel design made by Farfle specifically for the Genesis V2100, which is otherwise an all Aluminum frame.
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tomjasz
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Re: How to get the proper advice, read before asking

Post by tomjasz » Jan 03, 2017 3:53 pm

wesnewell wrote:That must have been a custom swingarm because the V2100 stock swingarm is aluminum. I have never used torque arms and never had a problem even with the MXUS 3000 that I got from you a couple of years ago. I do use jam nuts on the inside of the dropouts along with the stock torque washers. I won't buy a bike with aluminum dropouts, at least not to electrify.
I have one steel bike. Honestly, steel torque arms are all that's needed on AL frames. By HUNDREDS of users. I've seen front forks in aluminum with Grin double sided torque arms running for three years. No stress problems. Would I do THAT? No, but it's working. And certainly acceptable for rear uses.
Thanks Justin_le we're here thanks to you. All the best to the mods for their tireless work keeping it on an even keel.

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Re: How to get the proper advice, read before asking

Post by the12be » Jan 09, 2017 1:08 pm

I have a Gaint trance swing arm I converted it's Alloy was going to put a 5cm wide magnet hub motor on it and have a Alloy 48 volt 1200watt ebike (over 30,000 miles on it ) Alloy frames work well
I also think the right tyre makes a big difference ( 26x 1.75 schwalbe marathon plus ) will run fast and help roll resistance I have a set set at 40psi runs well
this is a road /city bike but sometime over graval

ps if you run v brakes YOU WILL weaken the rim and you're wheel Will bow badly v brakes on a E bike is not a good thing Sorry that's bad advice

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Re: How to get the proper advice, read before asking

Post by the12be » Jan 09, 2017 2:07 pm

rsz_20170109_181904.jpg
Alloy Fully converted rear swing arm off a Giant trance X4 for a 150mm hub motor

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Re: How to get the proper advice, read before asking

Post by jla » Mar 07, 2017 9:26 pm

John in CR wrote:Based on your volume of incorrect advice I find this thread laughable. Your posts give no consideration to load because you live and ride on terrain that is dead flat, which means almost any rig is reliable even with a big load. In addition you make numerous posts that give the impression that RC lipo batteries are safe and cannot burst into flames when connected to nothing and having never been abused, when the exact opposite is true.
I know this is an old comment, but I think Lipo batteries are getting better by the year. I have had some lipos from early 2013 that I've used on 2 different hub motor builds that just died on me last month. I just got a new set of lipos for my latest build and have been amazed at how well they have improved performance and affordability wise (there was a sale for 6s 16ah multistar batteries for $70 each=> 6*16*3.7/$70= 5.1wh per dollar :shock: ). Lipos are now being widely used in high powered off-the shelf consumer applications like the dji drones.

For 1st time ebike builders, lipos are a viable option if the necessary steps are taken to understand and care for them. I do think in a few years 18650s would match lipos in affordability and there are some today that offer great energy density, but most likely in the same time lipos would come close to 18650s in safety.

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