New e bike

L

longwise_suck

10 W
Joined
Jan 24, 2015
Messages
97
Location
Frankfurt
Hello,
I have been lurking here for a few months and decided to register, so hello.. I recently bought a 250 watt pedelec which for the first 1000k was great a lil on the weak side due to the puny battery now i have all kinds of battery issues charging issues and range problems and the wiring likes to unplug its self now and then just for a laugh. so after my rambling i will come to my point, i am looking for a ebike which can cruise at around 25 mph on a 26 inch wheel i decided on the mac 8 t but the battery is the confusing part for me my journey is about 30 ks per day and help would be great thanks!
 



Hello and thank you :)
I would like the thing to travel at between 30 kph and 36 ish my current ride struggles to do 23 on its 36 volt 5 amp battery i have no idea of the chemistry as information is almost impossible to get on this bike, it took me 2 weeks of pestering a sales manager to send me the settings for the controller via the LCD, the existing battery i suspect has a problem with the bms, it does like to stop charging at 39.4 volts after much fiddling pluging in unplugging shouting a lot saying bad words.. it will eventually start to charge and then charge fully, i would like to scrap the whole drive train and replace it with the mac system and run it on lipos
 
In Germany, the Bafang BPM motor will be much cheaper than a MAC. It'll be more than powerful enough for what you want. You need one about 260 rpm. There must be kits available in Germany, but if you can't find them, you can get them pretty cheaply from BMSBattery. Their 20ah 36v shrink-tube li-ion battery is pretty good and quite light. It would go well with their BPM motor and the S12S controller. They also do the Bafang CST motor, which is very nice. It takes a free-hub cassette, so you can get better gears. I think that motor is quite popular in Germany. I've seen it on OEM bikes with a 250w label on it.

Mounting the battery will take a bit of thought. This is how I did it on a full suspension bike. You need to try and get it as far forward and as low as possible, but leave room for the suspension movement. I use a football boot bag for it. The plywood base goes inside the bag and then bolted through. Click on the photos if they're the wrong size:



 
Hello and thanks D8veh
that battery mount idea is perfect, i was thinking of a seat post install but i don't trust the whole one point of attachtment idea. I had thought about the mac as people on here seem to rave about them and their reliability which is what im looking for but for sure ill check out the bafangs i had a quick look on the ebike sim and the numbers seem to match up quite well, so thanks again ill post back when i have bough installed n tested the thing
 
Just a quick Wtf! The bike I have is limited to something like 23 k however riding in the rain this morning it went nuts n hit 31kph on its own?? Maybe if I got another controller for it I wouldn't need a new motor?
 
Your battery is very small. A bigger battery would be better if you want to go faster.

Your bike must have its speed restricted somehow. It looks like you have a LCD on the handlebars. Most LCDs have a secret speed setting. If you show a picture of your LCD, I can probably show you how to change the speed.
 
I'll take some pics of the led and motor later I would love to know what the motor is but nothing is written or stamped on it as for the battery it was sold as a 10 amp but is 5,8 bloody annoying so I'm looking at a ping 36 volt 20 amp
 
Wet in the throttle can short out the throttle, resulting in full power. In your case, sounds like it is more than your current throttle can give.

Might look into a different throttle, to get that 31 kph every day.
 
I had to open the battery one time as it turned out a wire had popped off so upon opening it imagine my displeasure at see written neatly on the shrink wrap "Samsung 36 volt 5.8 amp" yeah wasn't the best new I had that day, quite happily tho I see dillinger have repaired their site so now ship to Germany again so maybe I'll be replacing the lot of it with a 1000 watt 48v 10 amp kit, as the controller in my bike melted after the excitement of 37 kph on the way home.. Bugger... Oh well
. Does any one know how to make photos the correct size to upload here I would like to upload some pics of my motor to see if any one can identify it, thanks all for your comments I learn here more by reading real life trials and tribulations in 30 minutes than 2 weeks of vendor websites
 
use VGA setting on your camera. download the picture to your disk, and then in your post click on the 'download attachment' box under the post dialog box. then 'choose file' and then <open> when you have the picture located on the disk.
 
This is your bike.
http://www.longwise.com/enchanpin/show.asp?i=1720
Looks like there's plenty of room to increase the battery size to 10ah of 10s or 12s lipo. I imagine the controller has a limiter to limit your speed. If you could find that, it may be enough to satisfy you. Bike looks well designed and with a few improvements could go farther and faster.
 
The bike looked great online I got the rear suspension model and now wish I had got the hard tail as the battery fouls the rear mudguard and presses it on to the tyre when I don't have the damper set to to hardest position the controller lives under the crank so gets a regular bath and then stops workin, apart from those issues and the fact the controller just melted it's OK I'm waiting for a ku63 from bms battery and hopefully I'll be back up n running
 
Before you do too much head-scratching with your new controller, if you don't get the LED control panel, you have to join the red and blue wires on its connector. Without the panel, PAS will default to level 1.
 
Ahh d8veh do you know the difference between type 1 and type 3 per chance I bought the throttle pas sensor and 3 position switch just to be safe
 
KU63/65 250W 6Mosfets Controllerl - Display : LED, Type : 1
1 19,37€ 19,37€
-- Half Twist Throttle - With a Button : Yes
1 3,75€ 3,75€
-- Three Speed Switch Kit
1 0,89€ 0,89€

well thats my order so i guess i just sit back n wait for my order to change status n ship, it will be nice to have my bike back
 
longwise_suck said:
Ahh d8veh do you know the difference between type 1 and type 3 per chance I bought the throttle pas sensor and 3 position switch just to be safe
Click to expand...
The type 1 is the old KU63 with an additional connector for the LED control panel.
The type 3 is the old KU65.

I think that the main practical difference is the three-speed switch. If you connect the black wire to one of the other two, you get a 10% speed boost as assuming you're using hall sensors. I just used to use mine permanently connected, though you might get better efficiency if you put a switch on it and only used it when you go fast.
 
Thanks d8veh it had me a bit lost I got the fastest post I could so hopefully it all comes next week I don't know what my motor is yet I wonder is it a bpm of some sort perhaps I can try a higher rated controller on it n see how it copes
 
longwise_suck said:


haha finally i made a picture work, this is my motor if anyone can help to identify it
Click to expand...

if you look underneath the dialog box where you enter text, there is tab that says 'upload attachement' and when you click on that tab, it asks you to 'choose file' so you click on that and it will open your pictures album on disk or you can even download from your camera if it is attached to the computer.

when you find the file that is your picture then click 'open' on that picture and it will then put your picture in the box, then you 'add file' to the end of the post before you 'submit' the post.
 
So my new controller throttle and 3 position switch came yesterday not bad 5 days from ordering it I'll be ordering from them again I did a trail fit of the controller throttle and switch n had a quick test ride it is 100 times better faster faster acceleration and much more power the pas is om or off there is no middle and it sucks I can have throttle Or pas not both together, I got the cruise switch also on the throttle but really I have no need for it so it can stay off tonight I'll wire up the hall sensors and try it again and then change all the overly large connectors for something a Lil slimmer all in all I'm quite pleased next on the list is a new battery n then I'm all set to go! One thing about the new controller is the motor is louder but that's to be expected I suppose
 
You need the LED panel to control the PAS. Don't connect the cruise control unless you have working brake switches. It'll latch on to full throttle when you don't expect it.
 
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