My MXUS 3000W V2 Build

Here is my build.

I made some mistakes in buying because of my impulsive habits.
1) I should have made one big order from HobbyKing, instead of 3 different orders.
2) I should have bought a battery package from em3ev.com, ebikes.ca or any other reputable online company.
3) Again one order from Lyen instead of 2 orders.
4) MXUS motor I should have ordered in the rim.
5) Should not have purchased a $15 Alex rim + $15 s/h, impulse buy, but its not wasted, will use it for a powered pusher e-trailer build.
6) I could have bought a better charger, I think those iChargers are the way to go, Dual Channel.
7) With the better charger however is a better Power Supply, hence more money. But those desktop power supplies would have worked just as good, plenty laying around. Computer stores chuck 'em in the alley in disposal bins. Google can help you convert one for sure.

Here is what I have learned from diving headfirst into a DIY ebike build.
1) Should have bought a 1000W rear 26" ebike kit from yescomusa, then batteries as mentioned previously.

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Here is a list of stuff I bought.

MXUS 3000W V2 motor only, right from the manufacturer $295 delivered to Canada + $16 in customs.

Canadian Tire (In store buy) - Multimeter $10 or $20, was on sale for 50% off
Canadain Tire (In store buy) - Digital Measuring Calibrating Thingy $10 I think, on sale as well for 50% off.

Princess Auto (Its exactly like USA's Harbor Freight, except its a Canadian Company)
- Adjustable Heat Soldering Iron 5W-60W with 3 tips - I paid $10 (reg $20) + $6 s/h

ebikes.ca - 26" Downhill rim 31mm wide 36h $56 + CA3-DP $68 + 3way switch $9 + $27 s/h

Lyen.com - 18 FET Low RDS MOSFET Overclocker Ready LYEN Controller $199 delivered + USB-TTL programming adapter $15 +
Thumb Throttle $15 + Cycle Analyst connector +
external USB-TTL connector for USB-TTL programming adapter, regenerative braking enable/disable jumper $10 +
Cruise control module $19 + DC-DC Multi-Purpose Voltage Converter $14.98

HobbyKing International Warehouse in Asia
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Just ordering my 3rd shipment now....
12AWG black/white, more 4mm bullets with housing, parallel balance board,

Some other notes, for personal reference, need to buy some Denatured Alcohol, Acetone or Methyl Hydrate to clean bullets after soldering. Desoldering braid, thicker solder.

ebay - 3 prong power cable for power supply $5 + $5 s/h
local community bike store - freewheels $5 each, basket $5, kickstand $5, seats $5, pedals $5, bike frame $30

Seems like a daunting task with stuff everywhere.

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Edited
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Here are some more pics because I want to refine my skills in online posting of pics using IrFanView.

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I would like to add a few words of warning. Just because.

----------->>>>>>>This is pretty serious stuff, it can be deadly and extremely flammable, it can melt connectors, batteries can explode, and it could kill you or someone else. Limbs could be lost. Always Always Always use caution, Always be safe, Always do and make things safe! Always get help from professionals! Always wear protective gear and P.P.E.!!!!!!!!! ALWAYS !!!!!!!!!

Have to think about what amperage the wires will be having. I have not found a solid answer on it yet. There are some charts kicking around ES.
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
http://cerrowire.com/ampacity-charts

So for a battery pack buildup I will be doing a 20S3P which equals 74V and 15Ah using 5x4S1P hardcase batteries from HK. Might go 24S3P, still pondering it.

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This schematic was one of my originals. Each series string, are connected to each of the parallel branches to give us 20S3P.

Well, its called learning the hard way, or the school of hard knocks, or from the tough teacher or whatever. If you're learning and sharing what you know, you're doing good. To err is human and all that. Main thing is are you having fun yet? Best of luck with your project!

Here is what I have learned from diving headfirst into a DIY ebike build.
1) Should have bought a 1000W rear 26" ebike kit from yescomusa, then batteries as mentioned previously.

Click to expand...

That is quite a statement. Yescomusa plus battery gets you on the road in a blink but it is hardly a comparison on the performance of a MXUS vs a yescomusa. What did you mean?

windtrader said:

Here is what I have learned from diving headfirst into a DIY ebike build.
1) Should have bought a 1000W rear 26" ebike kit from yescomusa, then batteries as mentioned previously.

Click to expand...

That is quite a statement. Yescomusa plus battery gets you on the road in a blink but it is hardly a comparison on the performance of a MXUS vs a yescomusa. What did you mean?

Click to expand...

Shouldn't have gotten the 454ci stroker , the 150ci would have been better.

You still can. The MXUS-3000W is heavy, and its also more expensive than the Yescomusa "ebay" kit...but the MXUS can be easily sold right now at cost because they are in demand. Buy the Yescom (if you want) and maybe ventilate the side covers, plus spray the insides with anti-rust, then add a temp sensor...give it a thorough road-beating...and if it meets your needs, sell the MXUS while they are still a hot item.

spinningmagnets said:

... sell the MXUS while they are still a hot item.

Click to expand...

I thought we were venting them to run high amps, so its a cool item, no? :lol:

To let the heat out of a closed box. Amps. make heat.

markz said:

windtrader said:

Here is what I have learned from diving headfirst into a DIY ebike build.
1) Should have bought a 1000W rear 26" ebike kit from yescomusa, then batteries as mentioned previously.

Click to expand...

That is quite a statement. Yescomusa plus battery gets you on the road in a blink but it is hardly a comparison on the performance of a MXUS vs a yescomusa. What did you mean?

Click to expand...

Shouldn't have gotten the 454ci stroker , the 150ci would have been better.

Click to expand...

How about buy that Ikea knockdown bookcase rather than heading to the lumber, hardware, and tool stores.

Much like you I would recommend most who want to experience life with a ebike to do the yescomusa kit. You can get on the road very simply at low cost and use that same build for a long time as you get a very solid end result.

Yes get the bike on the road, plus a good plug and play battery. You now have a hobby. We will be hearing alot from you, hopefully. We will all learn going forward from you. A good thing. You will learn wheel building. Plus

Yeah, I got a little overwhelmed with the task at hand.

Just got a 5 day ban for a team kill on World of Tanks online game, buddy shot at me took 150hp, then I shot back once is alright without a penalty, twice or more your considered a team killer and can still play, but marked Team Killer, painted blue, not green, for other players to notice, kill the tank, banned for 5 days. I play too much of that anyway. Hours wasted that can go to ebike building.

One part I was sketchy on, once I got my batteries first in parallel, then I needed series. I was originally drawing diagrams for parallel then parallel, not P then S. I was trying to do the no solder route, and like ready to buy connector converters that went from 5.5mm->T's then T's->EC5, then when I had it all ready to hit buy, I went over my diagram again and realized I was wrong. All I have to do is when my next order of Hobby King parts comes in, use 8awg wire and 5.5mm bullets one side female and one side male, bam series, done! I was on this for days, practicing soldering 10awg in 4mm bullets. 5.5mm bullets with 10awg should be easier, I also have 8awg and the 5.5mm bullets are rated for 100A+ I would hazard a guess between 4mm of 90A and 6.6mm of 200A, 5.5's are 135A cont.

Luckily HK had some 6x 4mm all female 14awg to 10awg 5.5mm parallel harness, and some male-male bullets.

I am balancing my batteries today.

I love WOT I play it more then I racing and call of duty ,