TPA wrote:my intention is to supply someone with 3 drop in replacements to test for strength and wear. I'm not making any promises, because I'm in school until dec 18th, and time is a premium until then. I've ordered the tooling, but still need to get the aluminum and bearings (I'm assuming shielded is ok looks like whats in the picture). I will try to make many (60?) at one time, but can't promise when they will be ready.
voicecoils wrote:Another thing to look at would be the freewheel assembly that the nylon gears mount to. It may have a limited life as well. Nogwin is nearing 2k miles however, so he's our best torture tester yet IMO. The freewheel assembly cannot be disassembled from what I could see, so a bit hard to check the construction quality.
TPA wrote:Voicecoils says the bearing is the 608zz. I am considering making some gears out of 6061 aluminum. Can the bearing 608zz be confirmed with absolute certainty? And should they be shielded or sealed? Can anyone say whether it would be a good idea to increase the o.d. of the gear slightly to cut out the slop?
fechter wrote:The motor current has more to do with it than voltage. Most controllers will give the motor more current with a higher battery voltage, so I guess there is a connection.
If you ran a 20 amp limit, I bet the gears would never strip.
voicecoils wrote:I stripped my second set of gears at 80v and under 20A,
Tiberius wrote:Its part of the peculiarity of the way the controller/motor combination works. 80V / 20A in could translate to 20 V / 80 A out to the motor at low speed, partial throttle. And as Richard says, its the (motor) current that sets the torque.
Its part of the peculiarity of the way the controller/motor combination works. 80V / 20A in could translate to 20 V / 80 A out to the motor at low speed, partial throttle. And as Richard says, its the (motor) current that sets the torque
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