It seems strange to me that on a "performance" motor like the Puma they put about 6 ft of thin wire out of the motor. Since I have to upgrade to a better controller I figure I should cut most of that off and add thicker wire like some others have done. I opened it up to see how hard it would be to go all the way with the wiring- it looks like they did a pretty good job at the factory- don't think I'll mess with that yet. I think I'll just cut about a few inches from the hub and add from there. I am quite happy with the quality of the motor- the center section is an engineering marvel, it only weighs about 5 lbs. I noticed that a date of 2005 was written on the inside, mabey I lucked out and got one of the older models like Knoxie's BMX motor?
Rewiring the puma motor
- Thread starter Tony
- Start date
Yes
Tidy! that is the same as the BMX motor, just cut the cable down so only 4 inches or so come out of the hub, this will help with high amps.
The BMX motors are a better quality unit IMHO notice the nice blue stator and shiny magnets, the newer motors will be of this quality as well.
Good Luck!
Knoxie
Tidy! that is the same as the BMX motor, just cut the cable down so only 4 inches or so come out of the hub, this will help with high amps.
The BMX motors are a better quality unit IMHO notice the nice blue stator and shiny magnets, the newer motors will be of this quality as well.
Good Luck!
Knoxie
Hi
Just cut the cable so that only 4 inches or so is coming from the axle, bear in mind this may affect your warranty? don't know Doug's position on this? strip back the cable a little enough to get your connections made. I used 30A Anderson connectors on my rides, they are cheap and reliable and easy to use, you can solder them on, its a good Idea as the wires are thin and crimping them is not reliable enough.
I use a standard cheap plastic push together 5 pin din connector, I don't use locking connectors on hub motors as I have been saved a couple of times as the wheel has turned in the dropouts and disconnected itself before it snapped the wires, so its a good Idea esp. if you have no torque arms to make the connectors so the break apart easily.
I can post some pictures of the connectors, I think there are some pictures of the Puma of mine on here somewhere showing the connections if you have a dig about.
Cheers
Knoxie
Just cut the cable so that only 4 inches or so is coming from the axle, bear in mind this may affect your warranty? don't know Doug's position on this? strip back the cable a little enough to get your connections made. I used 30A Anderson connectors on my rides, they are cheap and reliable and easy to use, you can solder them on, its a good Idea as the wires are thin and crimping them is not reliable enough.
I use a standard cheap plastic push together 5 pin din connector, I don't use locking connectors on hub motors as I have been saved a couple of times as the wheel has turned in the dropouts and disconnected itself before it snapped the wires, so its a good Idea esp. if you have no torque arms to make the connectors so the break apart easily.
I can post some pictures of the connectors, I think there are some pictures of the Puma of mine on here somewhere showing the connections if you have a dig about.
Cheers
Knoxie
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