bike kaput.

I have a dillenger comfort with a 250W 24V rear hub motor and a sla battery. It was working great for commuting until great miscommunication resulted in the controller being hooked up to the battery backwards. The controller is dillenger OEM , a modified chinese controller with 6 mosfets, throttle and pedal assist, phase wires, 2 beake lines and a few wires I don;t understand but do know what they connect to.
I cannot find a controller replacement/ do not know how to test to find out what is wrong. I have a multimeter, know that a capacitor on the circuit board popped, do have power to the handlebars,
just not power to motor. The controller looks fine except for the capacitor [maybe bypass capacitor] I get voltage reading to all of the leads. On a final dismal note it is also possible torque during the wheel truing broke wires in motor. The led on the controller flashes 2-2-2-2-2 endlessly. Nothing gets hot when the power is on. The leads coming off the controller do have voltage.

How can I trouble shoot this problem. I feel like a member of my family has died

Did you contact Dillinger for a replacement? I would start there, but if you really want to troubleshoot you are in the right place!

Sorry I couldn't help.

There are a number of threads for troubleshooting controllers, including for reversed power leads.
a couple of possible searches (not every thread found will be relevant)
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=battery+backward*&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=firstpost&sk=t&sd=d&sr=topics&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?st=0&sk=t&sd=d&sr=topics&keywords=battery+reverse*&sf=firstpost

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=controller+dead&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=firstpost&sk=t&sd=d&sr=topics&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search




A few highlights:

Sometimes when power is hooked up backwards it destroys the FETs that drive the motor, but not always. When it does happen it may also destroy the gate drivers, and that much damage is often not worth fixing.

Grin Tech's site http://ebikes.ca has troubleshooting guides on testing FETs and such. (easier to find than the ones on ES)

More often it destroys the low-voltage power supply that makes 12v & 5v from the battery voltage. Those are used to power gate drive and the MCU, halls, throttle, etc. This may be easier to fix, depending on what failed.

If it does kill that LVPS, sometimes it goes further and frys the MCU itself, and at that point it's usually new controller time, unless you have a spare dead in some ohter way and the ability to transplant SMT fine-pitch chips from one board to another.

First check for that is:

Do you have 5v on the throttle, hall, and other accessory power supply wires?

A new one is easy to find,, such as this one. No display with it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Controller-for-E-bike-Scooter-Brushless-Motor-24V-250W-E-N2-/171546940541?hash=item27f0fe947d:g:7NMAAOSwj0NUar-B

But to get it to run, you will have to work out which combination of wires to the motor makes it work right. I did not see a 24 brushless controller with self learning or self study feature. But if you can find that, it makes it easy to mate a strange controller to your motor.

You don't have to use an exact replacement controller. You can use any 24v brushless controller, some of which will work much better than your dDillenger one. Show us a picture of what you have so that we can recommend a suitable replacement.

I have finished my work week and can pay attention to this now, I have been reading the posts and doing what I had to do to finish my work week.

I emailed Dillenger today and the controller for this model is out of stock. They offered to try to contact the manufacturer and get me a quote.

I have taken pictures of the controller. There was someone posting about a controller with the same circuit board in June. They couldn't find it anywhere either.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=81176#p1194259

The circuit board number is 706AX3. His camera is better and captures more detail.

I did order a replacement capacitor for the 479 micro F 63 V capacitor that was popped. My cheap soldering iron can't do the job.

Here are pix and controller info:




The Label:



I am going test what I can with the multimeter and post again.

It's just a normal brushless controller for a hall sensor motor. can you confirm that your motor has the matching 6-way block (5 wires) for the hall sensors?

If so, you have a few choices. You can make your bike a lot better, especially if you use the pedal assist, by getting a controller with a LCD or LED panel, which will allow you to select a range of different powers for your pedalling.

Basic controller:
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/751-s-ku63-250w15a-6mosfets-controller-ebike-kit.html

Controller and LED panel gives 3 PAS levels. Order the 810 panel separately:
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/752-s-ku65-for-led810-250w15a-6mosfets-controller-ebike-kit.html

Cheap LCD ones with 5 PAS levels:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/24v36v48v250w350w-controller-display-set-control-panel-lcd-dashboard-for-electric-bike-scooter-moped-mtb-tricycle-scooter/32464390144.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.214.0miMGD&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_5_10057_10056_10055_10037_10049_10059_10032_10058_10017_10060_10061_10062_10064,searchweb201603_2&btsid=2693c7a1-8a74-4bd2-a341-57da16ddd37b

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Electric-bike-Ebike-scooter-controller-lcd-control-panel-24v36v48v-indicator-for-battery-lev-Scooter-parts-sensor/32448255532.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.111.QOvq89&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_5_10057_10056_10055_10037_10049_10059_10032_10058_10017_10060_10061_10062_10064,searchweb201603_2&btsid=2693c7a1-8a74-4bd2-a341-57da16ddd37b

Sinewave makes the motor smoother and quieter. has LCD and gives 5 PAS levels. Order the LCD separately:
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/546-s06s-250w-torque-simulation-sine-wave-controller-ebike-kit.html?search_query=s06s&results=22