1500W 48V Ebay kit, Advice for noob.

pas940

1 mW
Joined
Feb 19, 2017
Messages
13
Location
Australia
Hi, first post here.
I've been planning an E motorbike build for a while but can't decide on a battery. But in the mean time I have come across a 15s 10Ah Li ion made of power tool packs.
So I was thinking of building an ebike with a ebay kit for the trip to work.
something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/48v-1500w-2...301016?hash=item2814e5df18:g:09cAAOSwoudW-KvL
I'm guessing the 48V controller will handle the 15S at a bit over 60V i'm happy to charge to 4 or 4.1v if needed should be better for the pack.
It's a short run about 3.5 km each way with around 55m of climb in the last 1km. So should be plenty of battery
I want it to be fast 50kph on the flat.
I weight around 95kg and have maybe 5kg max in my bag.
It's on a sealed road with 1 railway crossing. It's hot here maybe 40deg at times when riding.
I'm thinking an old steel frame or maybe my wife's bike if she'll let me it's an aluminum frame MTB, she never uses it anyway and it should be easily removed if needed as long as I don't damage the dropouts.
How much trouble am I likely to have with this setup? I'm worried about the strength of the wheel mainly.

Any advice?
Thanks
Paul
 
Why not just get this one.

https://lunacycle.com/ebike-kit-1000-watt-waterproof-connectors-hub-motor-conversion/

Same power as the one you posted but a lot cheaper plus it'll be faster to ship. Can also accept 52v so it'll be quicker.


Sent from my SM-N920C using Tapatalk
 
Welcome to ES Paul. It would help out if we knew where you're located at to help you better and why pay $275 through luna when you can find one around $160 on ebay?
 
Agree and welcome as well. Instead of 400 or even 260, the 160-200$ 1kw kits are very nice and will hold up very similarly. I am also initially thinking the 1kw 26a setups will be kinder to the 10ah lion battery, and they still go fine and often just as fast @ 30mph on 15s. In fact, you can solder the controller shunt and it's pretty close to the same as a 1500w kit, though it would be proper to upgrade the controller like the seller likely does for 1500w. A controller costs <100$ fyi.

Do you know how much your battery can support? I have a little 4ah 14s tool pack that does allow for 26a 1kw kit no problem, though it sags alot more toward the bottom of the charge.
 
Please read this.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66302
 
Read the threads on YES kits; mine goes 32+ mph with a Luna 52V, 10 a/h battery. Total should be < $700.
 
Hi I'm in Australia so I'm pretty used to paying the same for shipping as the product costs.
So the 1500w kits are the same motor is that what you are saying? I'm happy doing mods to the controller. I'll just get a 1000w maybe. But for the time it might be easier just to get the big one.
Power tool manufacturers don't publish there battery c ratting but let's just say it's from one of the big brands so I'd expect performance similar to A123 cells etc. I wouldn't be worried pulling 10c, 100A or 6kw.
 
the 1500w kits are the same motor
Often, yes. Try to find a similarly accessorized 1kw kit and compare the shipping weights if seller doesn't know/ can't help.

don't publish there battery c ... from one of the big brands
True they don't publish that but do normally use good cells. At least on mine there is no discharge through bms too, which can be good or bad. I know the ego packs use lvc and temp cutoff control from the tool, they only appear to use their on board bms to charge.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-1000W-20-Front-Wheel-Electric-Bicycle-Motor-Conversion-Kit-for-Fat-Tire-/232043038494?hash=item3606d7c71e:g:tlwAAOSwMtxXqX8i

Mostly for the buy one, get one (Almost) free aspect. But fat tire, man. And how would one add a freewheel to what's supposed to be a front wheel?
 
That's in America and doesn't ship. Like I said we have to pay a lot to get things here.
Plus it's 20inch fat wheel
 
What frame do you put it on though? What would the diameter of it be similar to once it's got a tire on it? Why fat? Better strength, less rolling resistance and looks? I'm kinda thinking a clean look appeals more to me.
 
pas940 said:
That's in America and doesn't ship. Like I said we have to pay a lot to get things here.
Plus it's 20inch fat wheel
Do what this says at the top. Then read the rest. Then check out ebay.au.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66302
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=48v%201000w%20rear&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684
 
Thanks heaps for that. Just saved me 300 dollars I don't normally bother with eBay.au as the prices are normally inflated. But I guess this seller must be importing in bulk and saving on shipping and passing that on to his customers. WIN! well I'll have to wait till I'm home to order but at least I have a plan now. Thanks again.
 
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=74706

Oh, and batteries. Don't know that saving a little money means you now have enough for great batteries.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-10AH-Li-polymer-Battery-Lithium-Bottle-Type-350W-Electric-Bicycle-Motor-/232248776581?hash=item36131b1785
 
That 36 volt bottle battery will not work for long with a motor , like the Australian E-Bay one he wants.

It does not list the Discharge rate , but it does say that it is for motors 350 watts and less.
Best to get a better quality Battery Pack.




Dauntless said:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=74706

Oh, and batteries. Don't know that saving a little money means you now have enough for great batteries.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-10AH-Li-polymer-Battery-Lithium-Bottle-Type-350W-Electric-Bicycle-Motor-/232248776581?hash=item36131b1785
 
Thanks guys but I'm sorted for a battery that's the reason I'm building it. Can't wait to get it ordered. I've got some good ideas for the battery box and controller mounting, I'm going to make a plastic box that clamps around the top tube and hangs under it running the full length so all the wiring can be hidden. Just got to work on a layout that fits everything in. Thinking fan cooling for the controller and battery if needed.
 
That ebay battery is junk. Made for a 8amp controller.
So let's hear more about your battery. The important part. Maybe a pic of the bike ?
 
As I said in the first post, from power tool batteries. 15s 4p 18650s. Giving about 60v 10ah. I'd say it'll be good for a 10c discharge at least 5c which is all I need. Going to remove the bms as I don't think it does anything with out the tools or charger. Thinking of building a 15s balance charger using tp4056 with isolated supplys for a balance charge every so often. Daily charger will be switch mode power supply. Thinking the balance charger on board and daily charger will stay at home. Just have to see how I go for room. Else i'll add a 16pin plug for external balance charger. It's got to be easy else it won't get done.
The bike I'm not too sure on yet got 2 old ones or maybe even buy a new cheap one.
 
You want to go 50 kph, so you will need a fast wind/low torque motor, or put more amps into a slower motor , more amps than your homemade from tools battery pack would handle. so since this is going to be to go to work, its best to get the fastest wind motor you can get.
a standard 48volt controller can handle up to 14s pack, but I would not try to to use 15 s as you would only get maybe only 2 or so Kph's more .
If you want to go with a 15 s or 16 s etc, just get a kit that has a controller that goes up to 72 volts.

You asked someone what is so special about fat bikes / why Fat is where it is at these days.

People who ride off road, and in particular at the Beach/Snow/Sandy Desert Area's really benefit from the Fat tires.
But Now there is a new format, Plus size tires, which is good for off road when someone rides in loose dirt/wants to run low tire pressures, and to be able to ride a hardtail with a little suspension without having a rear shock and linkages.

Think of it this way in Regards to Australia , Fat bike if you live and ride in the outback or a few hundred Km's north of Cairns, anywhere where crocks live.
Plus size tire bike if you ride on the dirt trails in the hills outside the Sunshine Coast / Gold Coast, or other somewhat bush areas like that.

You say you are going to work on asphalt. so any 26 inch/27.5 inch or 29er bike would be good. good would be a 26 inch wheel bike with thin street tires ( 34-40 Kph ), best for going faster will be a Gravel Bike ( 700c with wider than a normal racer width tire , example 32mm or 35 to 42 mm wide 700c tires )

You have a fellow Aussie that has the answer for what you want to do .

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=84905




pas940 said:
So I was thinking of building an ebike with a ebay kit for the trip to work.
something like this:

I'm guessing the 48V controller will handle the 15S at a bit over 60V i'm happy to charge to 4 or 4.1v if needed should be better for the pack.
It's a short run about 3.5 km each way with around 55m of climb in the last 1km. So should be plenty of battery
I want it to be fast 50kph on the flat.
I weight around 95kg and have maybe 5kg max in my bag.
It's on a sealed road with 1 railway crossing. It's hot here maybe 40deg at times when riding.
I'm thinking an old steel frame or maybe my wife's bike if she'll let me it's an aluminum frame MTB, she never uses it anyway and it should be easily removed if needed as long as I don't damage the dropouts.
How much trouble am I likely to have with this setup? I'm worried about the strength of the wheel mainly.

Any advice?
Thanks
Paul
 
I disagree more amps into a slower wind isn't going to help with top speed unless you sit on the current limit all the way to Max speed, voltage is what makes speed. I'll give it a go, with the eBay kit, I'll have to see what I can get out of the controller, maybe add a higher voltage controler and bigger battery if needed.
The issue I see with the friction drive are many, Bearing loads on that tiny motor, thermal disapation. The fact it doesn't exist yet. It's definitely tidy and great for low power but for me I don't think it'll work. I could make one like that but the time invested wouldn't be worth it for me.
 
Id get my kit from the guy you posted the battery from then get a 48 or 52 volt battery from somewhere else. I got my 1000 front wheel kit from the same seller. then got a 48 v lifpo4 battery from someone else.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291508805761?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
You are not seeing what I was stressing/getting at , I said get a Higher Speed Wind/ Low torque motor. ( and said that even though more amps will get you more speed, your home made battery will not delver the amps to go faster )
I have put more amps into a Mac motor and it did go faster, faster by 25 + % , so it will work , the efficency went down a couple of points ? Perhaps, with that motor at 13s pack at 20 amps I got around 20-21 Mph, with two 13s packs in parallel, at 25-26 amps
I got up to 26-28 mph.
but I am now putting that Mac motor to the side , to start putting more Volts into a Slower motor than the Mac. ( I have two motors )
Will now be using 12s on that Mac at 25 + amps to go up hills a little better, and use the slower wind motor at more volts on the other bike to get more speed.

You are only seeing Keplers latest version, it is in fact tested on an airliner version .
If you are in a very hot part of Australia, I am interested on the Thermal Dissipation Results as I sometimes ride in hot weather.
It should not be long until we know how it works out, based on Kepler's past work, He knows how to get the most out of any system, It should be very good.
If you do go with the eBay kit, a higher voltage controller and bigger/higher voltage battery looks like it will be needed to get up the speed you want.







pas940 said:
I disagree more amps into a slower wind isn't going to help with top speed unless you sit on the current limit all the way to Max speed, voltage is what makes speed. I'll give it a go, with the eBay kit, I'll have to see what I can get out of the controller, maybe add a higher voltage controler and bigger battery if needed.
The issue I see with the friction drive are many, Bearing loads on that tiny motor, thermal disapation. The fact it doesn't exist yet. It's definitely tidy and great for low power but for me I don't think it'll work. I could make one like that but the time invested wouldn't be worth it for me.
 
What out runners are you using? I see they do have very high continuous power ratings. I guess it's the high temperature windings (one I looked at was 300deg c) and the fact the ends of the motor are like fans to pull air through it. I have a cnc machine and could make the required mounts for it in a day probably. I'm just not sure I trust such a small motor. Not to mention it'll be a lot more money, the 3kw one I was looking at was 400 dollars + the speed control mount throttle etc.

Not sure why you think I can't pull 10c out of my battery, have you looked at quality high power cells from A123 and the like? 10c is a walk in the park that's 100 amps at 60v 6kw. I think you are to used to seeing junk batteries on ebay that are only good for maybe 2C discharge. I'll run a discharge test on it when I get home. Like I said I'm time poor at the moment, I've just had our first child.
You have got my interest and I'd like to play around with it at some stage. The brackets would be pretty easy to make I'd do it a bit different out of some 10 or 12mm aluminium, more rigidity.
Yeah it's hot here hits over 40c quite often so it'd be a good work out for it. Mind you if they are running winding temps really high the ambient isn't going to effect the cooling much.
 
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