HOW I HANDLED STUFFFFFFFFFF?
The internal everything was handled, by entering the frame, at the front, about halfway down. This is a LOW stress area, in STRICT tension. I made a hole, then, used a carbide burr, to slant the hole. the side that is still SHARPISH, was blunted as much as possible, then a small grommet, was split. It goes enough of the way around, to protect all but the slant the RIGHT direction. Looks keenish, works perfectly. Then, it goes straight back, and I punched slanted holes, at the back of the connector tube. This left the seatube pristine, and used the connector tube, which main function, other than as bolster, is bang stop for the suspension. This I used to create a lowered standover, with a small urethane bump, that is shaped like the striker. I STUPIDLY assumed, that like all mfgs, the tube would be opened. I was DEAD WRONG. Luckily, the place I entered, I could reach the tube to drill thru. I needed a long ass die drill. Then, I spent hours using every last bit of caveman logic, to thread BOTH competing cables/brakelines, thru the holes, all three, in a arc. Much like threading the camel thru the eye of a needle.
FREE AT LAST, free at last, THANK GOD ALMIGHTY, free at last. So, the lines were protected, and ushered the right way, for safety and utility. All but the enter into the swingarm. It is about a third of the way back, in the middle. Towards the bottom. Close enough to get a bolster from the corner, and far enough away to not warble and weaken. I epoxied a tube into the3 slant hole in swingarm. This tube I envisioned I would grind flush when fully hardened. And gain guidance internal. And so, the best laid plans GO AWRY. The tube started migrating, I almost lost it, but hemostats saved the day. So, the TUBE that is pure EPOXY, is PERFECT. The lines are SILENT, straight as the crow flies, and all internal, to the eye. The exit out the swingarm, is simply the hole they put in enlarged.
What to do if you must remove swingarm? Simply leave hanging, or, thread the end thru the swingarm, and then rethread when thru, or, split, and have a connector. Since it is all in tension, it would not have to be very stout. Then your INTERNAL installations, would be PERMANENT. All electrical lines have bullets at all entrancesish.
The light for rear, is so small, four LEDS, VERY effective, fits BEHIND the seatrails, inbetween shining. VERY TRICK. The wires, go down seatpost, and stay internal. The headlights, will be exotic wood pods, that are at end of handlebar. they will be funky SHCWAY form, pointing forwards, to compensate for the bends etc. Then, you can just rotate them, and lock, to adjust. these are EAGLE EYE LEDS. They are like projector beams, and are 9 watts each. The wires, I will THREAD under the grips. which will join with the others, and go internal.
I found a sleek, EBAY thingie, that has lights, and turn signals, and a kill button. Then, a sleek bell, and ground them, so they INTERSECTED,
The kill switch, will be used, to KILL motor power, during shifts while using PAS. Simple, and foolproof. I will also GANG, a microswitch, that is attached to the brake master cylinders.
So, I will have EFFECTIVE, VERY lightweight lighting permanently. Turn signals that are AMBER panel alarm LEDS that blink.
The fenders, are the SUPER LIGHTWEIGHT ones from china. FAR too flimsy to use, but dead sexy in shape. I bolstered them internally, with glass cloth, that I superglued to fender. Then, I attach the fender to the bridge of fork. Real close like. Looks TOUGH.
The rear one, I will create some attachment to the swingarm. It too will be REAL close to tire.
I have a MTX bag, that I will use with a rear rack, that it slides and locks into.
I will get pics soon, this is the bike, generally. Got the last frame new on ebay. 
