$$$ No Issue, what controller?

st35326

st35326

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Jan 26, 2016
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Location
Modesto, CA
Im looking to get a new controller for my one of my Stealth Bombers. I have already replaced the battery with a custom 30Q 18650 21ah battery and would like to update the controller as the OEM doesn't have any of the features of flux weakening, delta Y, variable regen etc. I was considering the Adapto but the only other Bomber Ive seen with one had a hubmotor that got much hotter than mine and didn't seem to "pop" the front tire an inch off the ground like the stock controller. Instead it seemed to roll into the power in a more subtle manner.

Oh and in regards to other threads... Stealth bikes are worth every penny. :D

Both Bombers and P85D charge mostly off my home built PV array (when the sun is out), how awesome is that? One averages 48Wh/Mile the other gets 320Wh/Mile.
 

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The power that you get from a controller has little to do with its functions or price. Same with the throttle response and acceleration curve. You don't say what motor that you have, but my bet is that it can be fed to saturation with a plain 18X4110. Then, all the functions that are a available on controllers that are 5 times the price, won't help feeding it more power. I find better to use simple controllers in a convenient format, and to stock backups for each of my bikes. But that is a personnal choice. Buy the Addapto max-e if you want to spend money and have a lot of options to temper with.
 
The Sabvoton feeding a Cromotor I use is very nice (I think it is a 72150). I turned down the motor current to keep the front wheel on the ground. :)

I made a brake lever that puts out both a contact closure and a variable voltage and use it for variable regen. Does the job well. It is described late in my Borg thread, linked in my sig.
 
Just get a Kelly they have variable regen. Do away with the rear brake and lock her up if you want.
 
MadRhino said:
The power that you get from a controller has little to do with its functions or price. Same with the throttle response and acceleration curve. You don't say what motor that you have, but my bet is that it can be fed to saturation with a plain 18X4110. Then, all the functions that are a available on controllers that are 5 times the price, won't help feeding it more power. I find better to use simple controllers in a convenient format, and to stock backups for each of my bikes. But that is a personnal choice. Buy the Addapto max-e if you want to spend money and have a lot of options to temper with.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply, the motor is a c-lyte 5403 the battery pack is 21s-7p.

If I have to keep backups of controllers, I'll just stick with OEM, as both bikes have been running the stock controllers for 4-5 years with zero issue.
 
Alan B said:
The Sabvoton feeding a Cromotor I use is very nice (I think it is a 72150). I turned down the motor current to keep the front wheel on the ground. :)

I made a brake lever that puts out both a contact closure and a variable voltage and use it for variable regen. Does the job well. It is described late in my Borg thread, linked in my sig.
Click to expand...


Hey Alan, thanks for the reply. Are you still running the same setup? I know of another guy (in the U.K.), running that setup but he switched to the Adapto but I never found out why. Did you get your Sabvoton from Zombieless? Qulbix and L.A. bike stock the 72150, regularly. Has the the user interface evolved at all?
 
flat tire said:
Just get a Kelly they have variable regen. Do away with the rear brake and lock her up if you want.
Click to expand...


Good call. The Kelly seems very well built (http://kellycontroller.com/kls7230s24v-72v300asinusoidal-brushless-motor-controller-p-1343.html). The only thing its lacking for me would be a Flux Weakening. So i suppose there is the Adapto and the Sabvoton. I assume these both utilize Field Weakening, but was wondering if anyone was utilizing Z-source Inverters, which seem to be largely unaffected by sag?
 
st35326 said:
Thank you for the reply, the motor is a c-lyte 5403 the battery pack is 21s-7p.

If I have to keep backups of controllers, I'll just stick with OEM, as both bikes have been running the stock controllers for 4-5 years with zero issue.
Click to expand...
[/quote]
Then your stock controller was probably a 18X4110. It is reliable, but like any electronics, when you push it to its limits you never know how long it will last. You can push this controller very high, for it has the lowest resistance mosfets available. It is easy to mod and repair but still, my idea of a good bike is that it has to be able to ride everyday, no matter what. For that purpose, it is good to have backups of all components that may fail.

Your motor is very power hungry. I doubt that its been fed anywhere close to its full power yet, unless you did mod your bike for performance. The two X54 motors that I have had, did pull bursts well above 25 Kw in acceleration. It has poor efficiency, and the builder of the bike likely set it very conservatively to give it some range and ease on battery heat.

The best performance improvement that you can make for your bike, is not to spend a lot on a different controller. Replace the motor with a QS 205 H50 V3, and you will have better acceleration, top speed, efficiency. Your controller can be mod to pull 150A battery current and make your bike speed 70 mph. Then it might not last 5 years, but a backup is cheap to stock. :wink:

Better controllers are not for better power, they are for better tuning options and extra functions. That is where you should go if it is what you want, but if your goal is performance improvement, then buy one simple and light weight that you can mod easily.
 
Yup I gotta second that, what was said about having spares, especially having a controller that is SENSORLESS, also have one where you can use a range of battery voltage from 36V to 84V. Its great for troubleshooing, or just hacking something together last minute so you can hit the liquor store before it closes at 2am.
 
Why do you want flux weakening? You will almost certainly be drag limited before you run out of RPM even without it.

If it's speed you want also look into a QS273. It's a very powerful hubmotor that will blow away even a QS205.
 
flat tire said:
Why do you want flux weakening? You will almost certainly be drag limited before you run out of RPM even without it.

If it's speed you want also look into a QS273. It's a very powerful hubmotor that will blow away even a QS205.
Click to expand...

Field weakening rocks, and the ASI, "8kW" is likely a good fit, it's burst power is way over 8kW.
 
Flux weakening does give you extra speed, but it does compromise max torque available. I never experimented so I can only speak by logic, but my logic says it is a great way to set fire to a motor. :twisted:

Very interesting option to have, when you want to achieve the fastest possible speed with your bike.
 
MadRhino said:
Flux weakening does give you extra speed, but it does compromise max torque available. I never experimented so I can only speak by logic, but my logic says it is a great way to set fire to a motor. :twisted:

Very interesting option to have, when you want to achieve the fastest possible speed with your bike.
Click to expand...

You're right that it does impact mechanically optimal timing, but you might be amazed how small of an efficiency penalty it is even at 150% base rpm.
 
Now you make me want to try. Is it real time adjustable or progressive pre-set?
I mean, weakening the flux only after the motor had reached some speed.
 
MadRhino said:
Now you make me want to try. Is it real time adjustable or progressive pre-set?
I mean, weakening the flux only after the motor had reached some speed.
Click to expand...

It only happens when you exceed the base speed, and otherwise holds optimal timing up to the point it has to advance timing to continue to pull on top end. It's all winning, you will love it.
 
st35326 said:
Alan B said:
The Sabvoton feeding a Cromotor I use is very nice (I think it is a 72150). I turned down the motor current to keep the front wheel on the ground. :)

I made a brake lever that puts out both a contact closure and a variable voltage and use it for variable regen. Does the job well. It is described late in my Borg thread, linked in my sig.
Click to expand...


Hey Alan, thanks for the reply. Are you still running the same setup? I know of another guy (in the U.K.), running that setup but he switched to the Adapto but I never found out why. Did you get your Sabvoton from Zombieless? Qulbix and L.A. bike stock the 72150, regularly. Has the the user interface evolved at all?
Click to expand...

Still using it, though not riding it much lately. I don't know about their software evolution, haven't tried the new stuff. I did get it from zombiess.
 
A Torque mode throttle is more refined than the usual PWM mode that most controllers have. Feels and operates more like an electric car or an ICE vehicle.

Most of the FOC controllers have this. Sabvoton, PhaseRunner, etc.

The FOC controllers also monitor motor current in real time and generally won't blow up in a fault condition.
 
At the advice of many on here I picked up a Sabvoton SVMC72150
 

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I guess it should not come as a surprise that box contained zero instructions. Has anybody hooked/set up one of these that can advise?

Pictured are the my motors (5403) phase/ halls.
 

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The controller came with a shunt that Im assuming I don't need since the cycle analyst has one?
 

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