Cheap suspension fork 1-1/8 threaded

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Mar 28, 2017
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Hey guys.. Thought I'd ask it here... Looking for a cheap suspension fork for my trek 800 that has a threaded 1-1/8 quill stem.
Possibly this?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F361690710905
One thing I read is that some suspension forks use elastomer suspension parts.. Those bad for an ebike? This bike is a stick city commuter so no jumps or what not. I have v brakes also
 
My experience with the low end Suntour suspension forks has been they are indeed forks but you can possibly expect sloppy play right out of the box and that they move up and down, in that regard they are indeed a shock fork but don't expect much. You could put them on the bike and then take your time and sniff out a good used 29er fork at a reasonable price, FSA The Pig headset and modern 31.8 stems and aluminum MTB bars are not real expensive, then you'd have a fun confidence inspiring cockpit. Remember the MTB guys are oftentimes upgrading forks since they've always gotta have the latest thing and if you keep your eyes open you can sometimes pick up capable forks in good shape for not a lot of money. Converting to threadless really isn't all that expensive, especially if you buy good used parts, you'd need straight steerer tube forks with sufficient steerer tube length left to fit your frame.
 
I have a set of these, they're decent and pretty sturdy, maybe at some point you could find a decent deal on something like this, just wanted to give an example and if you could locate a set at half this price you would probably like them: (you'd have to switch to BB7 or other inexpensive mechanical disk brake)

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=90337&gclid=CjwKCAiAlL_UBRBoEiwAXKgW58qoTYqj75gaQOPrTm31atXlJ7rU3EPMf-tF8gMbNACXBEt_6BCYfxoCq-gQAvD_BwE
 
Suntour forks are often worse than nothing. My last Suntour was flexible enough that you could see the fork bend back under normal braking. While it took the jolt out of a few bumps, it made the bike handle like a rattly, clunky, wet noodle. it wasn't pleasant to ride, and never felt safe.

Trek 800 is a good bike for an entry level bike. A suspension fork would help the ride. However, you can't half-ass it and expect it to be better than the original. To fit a front suspension, you need a quality fork, and then to replace the bearings, stem, and handlebars to fit.

Now if you happen to have all those parts lying around from other bike projects, or you can get them cheap used or as dealer takeoffs, then it's totally worth the effort as it does improve the ride. However, if you have to pay full price for basic, non-crap grade parts, it's going to run north of $300 to properly fit a suspension fork on the 800.

For that kind of money, you can get a better Trek with correct geometry and a front suspension fork off craigslist. I see several Trek 4300s, 4500s, and even a DS 8.3 local to me for >$300.

If your budget for this upgrade is >$100, why not try a spring seat and larger air volume tires as an alternative to the suntour? A pair of CST 2.4" tires and a Bike Planet spring seat can make any bike ride better.
 
If your bike has rim brakes as I suspect with an antiquated stem steer system, you'll need a disc wheel too. As indicated, find a good used bike.
 
Just picked up a suspension seatpost...so that'll help. I like to ride on the higher end PSI tires since it offers lower rolling resistance. I've got nearly the widest tire for the stock fork in the front and stock tire that came with the hub motor on the back...

Are suntour's that bad that even city commuting they will feel dicey? When I've gotten upto around 25+ my bike starts to really really accentuate the bumps in the road or heck even the paths... I'm hoping for a cheap suspension fork to eliminate that... So running a lower PSI front tire might be better than a cheap suspension fork is what you're telling me?
 
Philaphlous said:
Just picked up a suspension seatpost...so that'll help. I like to ride on the higher end PSI tires since it offers lower rolling resistance. I've got nearly the widest tire for the stock fork in the front and stock tire that came with the hub motor on the back...

Are suntour's that bad that even city commuting they will feel dicey? When I've gotten upto around 25+ my bike starts to really really accentuate the bumps in the road or heck even the paths... I'm hoping for a cheap suspension fork to eliminate that... So running a lower PSI front tire might be better than a cheap suspension fork is what you're telling me?

Yeah just running lower pressures and riding carefully, not getting too crazy might be a good idea.

An inexpensive fork with thin stanchions will likely not a be a confidence inspiring ride hitting potholes at any speed let alone at 25+ mph because they'll feel like they're flexing all over the place. A suspension seatpost helps but doesn't prevent getting slightly airborne going over bumps and stuff at speed, lower tire pressure will help minimize that more.
 
Philaphlous said:
... So running a lower PSI front tire might be better than a cheap suspension fork is what you're telling me?

Yes, but No. They won't replace a suspension for taking the jolt out of hitting potholes. you'll feel them more than you would with a crap-tastic pogo stick suspension. However, you won't have all the multitude of negative effects that a crap-tastic suspension fork will bring.

Running high PSI does improve your efficiency, but much less than you think. The difference between a High pressure racing slick and a half flat knobby tire at normal bike speeds is in the range of 20 watts of wasted power. That's a huge difference if you're pedaling with leg power alone, but for a 1000 watt motor, you aren't going to notice the difference.

But to make your ride better, you don't need to go to that kind of extreme. dropping your pressure 25% to 30% is probably all you need to get the best ride.
 
Wonder if my ride would be weird if I had high rear tire pressure and lower front tire pressure...since I have a suspension seatpost it should help with dampening the rear tire shock and less than the front?

I've got this front tire: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-one-Kenda-K838-Slick-Wire-Bead-Bicycle-Tire-Blackwall-26-Inch-x-1-95-Inch/112161205430?epid=24011124903&hash=item1a1d542cb6:g:YEgAAOSw4HVWCVp2 and it's great! It's actually wider than you think which is why I like it.

If my commuting to work does pan out this year I'll be mostly riding on sidewalks/trails...so mostly encountering the occasional pothole but mostly cracks in the road and curbs.

Suntour XCM a little better? https://www.ebay.com/itm/SR-Suntour-XCM-Suspension-Fork-26-1-1-8-Threaded-100mm-Post-Disc-Black/192128912984?epid=1137428922&hash=item2cbbc68e58:g:KH0AAOSwKQ9aQpZu
 
Philaphlous said:
Wonder if my ride would be weird if I had high rear tire pressure and lower front tire pressure...since I have a suspension seatpost it should help with dampening the rear tire shock and less than the front?

I've got this front tire: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-one-Kenda-K838-Slick-Wire-Bead-Bicycle-Tire-Blackwall-26-Inch-x-1-95-Inch/112161205430?epid=24011124903&hash=item1a1d542cb6:g:YEgAAOSw4HVWCVp2 and it's great! It's actually wider than you think which is why I like it.

If my commuting to work does pan out this year I'll be mostly riding on sidewalks/trails...so mostly encountering the occasional pothole but mostly cracks in the road and curbs.

Suntour XCM a little better? https://www.ebay.com/itm/SR-Suntour-XCM-Suspension-Fork-26-1-1-8-Threaded-100mm-Post-Disc-Black/192128912984?epid=1137428922&hash=item2cbbc68e58:g:KH0AAOSwKQ9aQpZu

That fork has twice the travel of the one you posted before and 30mm stanchions whereas the other one had 25mm stanchions, It appears to be a step up from the other one and more stout as far as entry level stuff. For comparison the Recon (another entry level fork) has 32mm stanchions. Another thing to consider is rake, make sure it's not a big change from the fork the frame was designed for or you may experience a fairly profound change in handling, in some cases rendering the bike unsafe to ride. Someone like Chalo who knows more about geometry could tell you more about that. I have several bikes with suspension forks but still have a lot to learn about them myself. A lot of people consider them a hassle because they have to be maintained or they don't want to screw around tuning them, they can be a real rabbit hole and of course ones that work really well at absorbing bumps can get pretty expensive.
 
If you put on a taller fork than what your bike was designed for, you get two usually unwelcome changes and one that might be satisfactory:

You'll raise the bike's ride height and bottom bracket clearance. This usually harms steering precision a little.

You'll increase the front end's tendency to flop to one side or another at low speed. This is never a good thing. It's a result of the frame dropping closer to the ground when the wheel is steered to the side. It can be remedied by using a fork with more forward offset-- but suspension forks don't usually have a choice of offset, or much variation at all between different models.

The change that might be good or bad depending on the situation is that you'll increase the amount of steering trail, which is the lever by which the bike steers into the lean when it tips to one side or another. Most bicycles behave best when they have a small amount of trail, like 1-2 inches. But longer trail helps the bike remain stable at high speeds. That's why motorcycles have much longer trail dimensions than bicycles. So it suits a high speed e-bike to have a longer fork (up to a point) and thus slacker head angle and longer trail than a pedal-only bike.

A taller fork can handle like a shorter fork if it's set up to sag to a shorter length when loaded with a rider. That usually means it will ride softer too. So that might be a way to make a taller fork work well for your bike.

You should not consider using any recent model suspension fork that doesn't have hydraulic damping. Those that rely on friction or elastomers (rubber) for damping are never well controlled and will change their characteristics continuously as the seals and bushings wear. There were some pretty good elastomer forks made decades ago, but they had very short travel by today's standards and they have been out of production for a long time.
 
I almost forgot to mention-- it's probably in your best interest to switch to a threadless fork if you're changing it out. A new threadless headset costs only about $10 retail, a basic threadless stem not much more, and not only do they work objectively better, but they open up a vastly larger variety of forks to choose from.
 
What he said. ^^

FWIW, a pretty good one is FSA's The Pig headset; it's one of very few brand new parts I've ever bought and it was worth it's small price. IIRC I got mine from "Trail This" (would have to go look). But you probably don't need one as tough as that.


Regarding Suntour forks in general, I've used at least two basic models. One I forget what exactly it was, but I had two identical ones, and they both worked about as well as any cheap fork ever does, though better than the really crappy ones.

The other was an XCV, and it's still in service on my SB Cruiser, after having served a couple years on CrazyBike2 before that (and I think it was used when I got it, like most stuff I get). It's much better than the other pair of forks, but it's still got wiggle in braking, which stresses stuff and makes for "stutter" and sometimes skidding when braking near the limit of traction, harder to control a stop, where if it was stiff and didn't wiggle I'd have a lot better control under those edge-conditions where it's usually more important.

It helps with the various small bumps and potholes and such, but anything serious it's not terribly helpful with (and there are more and more of those as road maintenance is less and less of a priority here in the valley as the years go by).


I had a basic Manitou air/oil fork that was MUCH better, even though it was worn-out and leaked and had to be aired up every ride. :lol: And there's lots better than that, but they start costing a lot more.

All of these forks I've had are threadless.


I've had a few threaded ones too, but they were all worse than the worst of the ones above, for wiggliness and how little bump absorption they actually do.
 
I'm new to this whole bike thing. Lol had to Google what a stancion was. Ha.

Im wondering if you can mod the internals of a cheap suspension fork....just more solid components or is it the fit and design that makes a cheap suspension crap?

I have seen that a taller fork will change the ride height of the front and change the geometry of the bike. That's why I was looking at the cheap 50mm travel one... Again, I go back to my original idea that I just want it to help me out in ride quality from point a to point b....

I was hoping to not have to convert my threaded steerer to a threadless one because of cost... Would it be more expensive with a cheap threadless with all the additional components vs just a threaded fork?

I'm leaning more toward the threaded fork...just gonna have to see what the wifey thinks about this one. Commuting to work in our area is pretty dangerous hearing about bikers hit and stuff. I'd be mostly paths but I still have to cross a few large intersections and what not. From my calculations I'd be saving $82 a month in biking twice a week to work...thats pretty good savings on commuting expenses and heck I'd probably even get to work and home quicker without having to worry about traffic. Kinda a win win except for the safety thing...and I'd have to check the weather more often obviously...
 
I installed a 1" threaded RST Capa on my Trek 800. Cheap fork, but good enough for riding on pavement at bike speeds for me, while softening the curb jumps. I reasoned that it's probably just as good as the suspension I am using on two old diamondback hybrids from 2003-2005, which are fine for similar pavement riding.

I also did it to get the disk brake capability, which, alas I've not installed because the rim brakes turned out to be very good.

I converted to threadless because I was unable to cut the threads deeper with my die, and I knew a bike shop would just laugh at my forks. A stem, spacers, bars, and FSA (pig) headset was $40-50 more. Economically unsound, but for a hobby it was OK. I learned about forks. I figured out how to make an inexpensive press. I also saw what Chalo told us. I changed the original handling, perhaps made it worse, but got used to it quickly, plus it's not like I carve corners with this bike. I would be sad if they broke, but the front wheel never leaves the ground.
 
Thinking maybe I'll try to low ball this one? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F112800454016

Not sure how good this one is plus it's used...
 
Philaphlous said:
Thinking maybe I'll try to low ball this one? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F112800454016

Not sure how good this one is plus it's used...

Something like that XCM you spoke of earlier in a threadless version(with both rim brake bosses and disk mount) adding in the cost of The Pig Headset, aluminum 31.8 stem in the length of your choice, 31.8 wide modern MTB aluminum handlebars would be a real nice setup. You could add a mechanical disk brake later.
 
Philaphlous said:
Thinking maybe I'll try to low ball this one? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F112800454016

Not sure how good this one is plus it's used...

That's $50 with shipping, and you don't know if your bearings/crowns will fit.

I'm not anal about the quality of my bike parts, but I'm not mission critical with my bikes either. I can walk home. You probably need to get something that will work for commuting, and will be safe.
 
Raisedeyebrows said:
[...]aluminum 31.8 stem in the length of your choice, 31.8 wide modern MTB aluminum handlebars would be a real nice setup.

I have my doubts about the value of silly wide bars (>70cm) even for technical off-roading, but they are clearly folly for commuting. If you wear a dress shirt with smaller than 35 inch sleeve measurement, a 24 inch bar is more than adequately wide for the street. There's no good argument to be made for 31.8mm diameter rather than 25.4.mm. In normal street riding conditions, the increased flex of a traditional diameter, traditional bend bar makes for a more comfortable ride without spending any money, weight, or complexity on it.

Stuff that's out of fashion, but long proven, is usually the best value when it's time to trade your own money for it.
 
Chalo said:
Raisedeyebrows said:
[...]aluminum 31.8 stem in the length of your choice, 31.8 wide modern MTB aluminum handlebars would be a real nice setup.

I have my doubts about the value of silly wide bars (>70cm) even for technical off-roading, but they are clearly folly for commuting. If you wear a dress shirt with smaller than 35 inch sleeve measurement, a 24 inch bar is more than adequately wide for the street. There's no good argument to be made for 31.8mm diameter rather than 25.4.mm. In normal street riding conditions, the increased flex of a traditional diameter, traditional bend bar makes for a more comfortable ride without spending any money, weight, or complexity on it.

Stuff that's out of fashion, but long proven, is usually the best value when it's time to trade your own money for it.

Coincidentally just today I put a 25.4 riser bar I had lying around on my commuter bike, big wide things and it feels great riding, very comfortable, with like you say that slight flex.
LtyM&2l4V7.JPG
I do like modern flat wide bars a lot though on my MTB's and they have especially made one older bike I have seem to have a feeling of improved control over the narrow bars of the type that commonly came on older bikes back in the day, the ones with threaded headsets.
 
I used to go out of my way for wider than average bars, because I'm a much bigger than average guy (6'8"). I used BMX bars of 26"-27" width when such widths weren't available in MTB bars. I even used ATV bars for their combination of generous width, sweep, and rise.

But when MTBs in average sizes started coming with bars 30" wide, I had to wonder what the manufacturers were thinking. My boss recently went on a West Texas riding adventure with his girlfriend, and he set up our 27.5+ demo bike for her to use. It had 29" wide bars on it-- a medium sized bike, mind you-- but after some consideration he cut them down to approximately 24" for his sweetie. It looked better and fitted her way more appropriately.

One of my regular customers has a 27.5 MTB with drop bars that are 67cm wide. It looks and feels pretty dumb. On the plus side, if you ignore the drops, the bar tops are just like an MTB handlebar from before bike designers went on a crack binge.

rps20180227_013621.jpg

(This isn't my customer; the photo is from the manufacturer.)
 
The obvious advantage to the drop bars on the MTB or any bike is ability to position in headwinds and that is when the bars on the bike I posted above backfire on me, the high position combined with the fact the frame is a size up from the usual size I ride makes even moderate headwinds a challenge, steady ones a real workout. How the bars are set up does end up being a fun upright cruising position though for slow casual rides, a nice break sometimes from the wide bar/short stem all out maniac bomber thing.

6'8", geez that is tall, you must have frames built for you, I remember ordering a frame for a dear friend who was the same height from Cuevas in NYC, the tubes on that thing were LONG, beautiful bike.
 
I put a Scott AT4 MTB "aero" bar on my "hotrod" Dahon for the aero posibilities. But in the real world I found the main benefit was that the unique shape helped me with hand fatigue on longer rides. They also served as handguards when gripped in the "normal" position. Amazingly, the bike could still fully fold even with this unusual bar. They don't make them any more, but I'd seriously consider putting them on my commuter e-bike if it weren't for their likely interference with my front basket.

Scott_AT4_aeroBarsSM.jpg
 
Those bars are similar to the butterfly looking ones that were on the green bike when new, Kind of touring/commuter multi-position things, I found them awkward so opted for more conventional bars. Just shows how there's no rules with bars and everybody has individual tastes.

OP if you have any more questions feel free to ask, these guys know a lot and I know just enough to be dangerous.
 
Example of two different forks here, I am going to replace the Suntour XCT 24" fork on my daughter's bike with a new Suntour XCR Air Lo 24. The XCT that came on the bike has thinner stanchions and has always had a small detectable amount of play between the stanchions and the lowers noticeable under hard braking or when I hold the brakes and rock the bike back and forth. They were a typical entry level fork on an aside from that well designed beautiful kids hardtail that rides great and was not a cheap bike.

Suntour has acknowledged the problem was inherent with the fork and has been offering a price break on the XCR Lo Air as a nice upgrade, even though I bought the bike used they went ahead and gave me the discount price on a pair. Good 24" suspension forks are seemingly difficult to find and there's not a whole lot of options, just Suntour, Spinner, I think Zoom and possibly White makes some, this seemed like the best thing I could find, I'm actually pretty impressed, it's looking like a decent air fork with lockout and will offer me a little less stress watching my aspiring singletrack terrorist mash over roots, dips and other assorted trail features. Should give her more control, much better shock absorption and a much more confident feeling front end. Every bit helps when you're only 9 yrs old charging down single track built for adults with adult features.

I was thinking of putting a spare older Hayes Hydro brake and lever I have lying around on the bike but now on second thought I should just get a set of BB7's since the last set I bought on eBay were like half the price of the bike shop down the street, although I like giving them my business I buy all my cables and lots of other stuff from them and the price difference is substantial. I'll likely have them build a disk brake wheel set on basic Shimano hubs to use. Already upgraded the drivetrain to XT w/thumb shifters and got rid of the grip shifters which were actually more difficult for her to change gears, it's turning into a pretty nice little cycle.
6p0GX0~fkh.JPG

Difference in stanchion size
CMKuUwr33Q.JPG


Soon I'll do a thread about the 24v scooter and 36v mini-motocross bikes I've put together for the kid, she likes doing bike mechanic work and my hope is she'll be of the first generation that never owns an internal combustion vehicle.
 
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