Torque Arms

I wanted to see how long it would last without t.a.

I do have the scrap steel ready to go. The side with no hangar is a bit gouged, can see the aluminum bunching up.

Since its warmer weather I am doing more and more.

Gave the bike a good washing and washed out the garage & driveway.

The chain is rusted very badly, but like I say I hardly pedal. Got an "Anti-Rust" chain ready to go.

Also needed is a r.d. & shifter and r.brake, its funny bc the rim is disc only, and the bikes rear is V-brake.

Today I picked up a 16 x 1.60 SR244 and tube for my conversion to moto rim.
 
markz said:
I wanted to see how long it would last without t.a.

That's the craziest thing I've seen posted on the forum. The nature of failures with aluminum are catastrophic, and when you're talking about the aluminum that holds the motor on the bike, which is also the wheel, then you're looking at a failure resulting in the wheel separating from the bike.
 
TBH I forgot at the beginning to put t.a. on when I swapped over the motor to that bike. It wasnt until a month or two later, when I got a flat tire, that I realized I rode so long without t.a. so I inspected the dropouts. I did not have any t.a. as they were on the other bike with a diff motor on it. So I immediately went out, bought some steel and used the grinder but I didnt have a tap & die set to secure them. So I rode until my next flat, realized hey wtf, ordered a tap & die set. And rode again without t.a.
So you see how that all went down.
 
No, you just never got loose enough nuts. If it had tried to spin, that shape would not retain it, it would just lever itself out of the notch. Justins tests showed just tight nuts resists an amazing amount of torque. But once loose, no resistance to spinning, or levering out of a shallow notch.

Sometimes a derailleur hanger can be converted into a practical torque arm. The bolt on type that are used on cheap steel bikes can be welded on, and the weld then deepens the notch creating an effective torque arm from the combined thickness of the steel hanger, and the steel frame.

In your case, sure, the hanger is stronger than alu. but its too shallow to effectively contain an axle that wants to rotate out.
 
Thanks dogman dan, it is a good read.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14195&p=211396&hilit=torque+arms#p211386
 
dogman dan said:
No, you just never got loose enough nuts. ......

Commando jokes aside, I have been tightening my motor nuts to 55nm for years, and, I have been running with a broken alloy dropout for months using 55nm pressure. It's been working great.

:D
 
e-beach said:
dogman dan said:
No, you just never got loose enough nuts. ......

Commando jokes aside, I have been tightening my motor nuts to 55nm for years, and, I have been running with a broken alloy dropout for months using 55nm pressure. It's been working great.

:D

Just lawyers lips no T.A.'s?
 
Sorry, my bad. Yes TA's for 8000+ miles before it cracked. TA's now and a broken dropout plus 55Nm to keep it in place.

:D
 
FWIW, proper fitted washers tend to result in nuts staying tight, allowing just the nut pressure to do most of the work.

Many of those who cracked an alloy frame or fork had some kind of mis fit, where an unseen air gap behind a washer puts uneven pressure on the dropout, cracking it as soon as the nut was tightened. Or, similarly, the gap means the nut was never truly tight. The washer bends, and now the nut is loose.

This is why Justin created the c washer, for proper fit on typical front forks.
 
The strength required is proportional to power fed in acceleration. My dirt bike did open 1/4 thick steel torque plates each side. Now it has 1/2’’ each side and I have no doubt they are safe.

Since then, I prefer overbuilding them torque plates.
 
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