AussieJester wrote:Excellent work mate haven't been game to try myself as yet waiting for spare motor so i can have a play without messing with the running bike.
Would you be open to accepting $$$ for converting Outrunners with halls maybe? If so what would you charge?
I couldn't be so lucky that your in Australia could i haha...well done anywayz mate.
yep , i am in oz (canberra unfortunately) and could help you get halls sorted, so maby if you post up a photo of yourself wearing i nice big frock, then ill see what i can do..
-jeez you do meet some weirdos on the internets.
all fair questions burtie,
the scope setup: you hook ch1 signal to a hall colour (say blue) and earth to the common hall blacks. ch2 sig to the blue phase wire and its earth to the green phase wire.
i usually use the controller (still hooked up) to power and load the halls in the normal way, but DONT hook up the controller phases to anything or it all gets i bit smoky (ask me how i know) as the scopes earth's are linked.
it sounds tricky but its not, the phases are now just floating.
you then do the same for say the green hall (ch1) and ch2 sig to the green phase and earth to the yellow phase
and then.........................the yellow hall (ch1) and ch2 sig to the yellow phase and earth to the blue phase.
-might sound odd but it becomes simple cos then all you are looking for is a dead match (in direction and position) between each hall and its (same colour) phase, this would be 0 degrees timing, the motor will then run the same forward or reverse with any normal controller, and most hub motors seem close enough to this standard.
the need for more advance than this (all shown in the zip file a few posts back) is prolly cos of such high rpm, and is maby correcting for lag in the controller or something??
my halls ended up 10.205 mm apart centre to centre and they are 1 or 2mm inboard of the magnets diameter -how many degrees? , and yep its an early non skirt bearing motor.
it was a bit of pain to separate the windings but they didnt need to be cut, but it seems worthwhile cos now it is usable with higher voltage battery packs and normal 12 fet controllers now have a better chance (1.73 times better) of getting torque out of the motor.
when i ran it in delta it was just to hard on the controller and i was stuck haveing to run over 12 4110 fets and under a 50v pack -in summary the controller get hot and the motor didnt!