1000 Watt Legal non hub bicycle motor

jmygann

100 kW
Joined
May 30, 2008
Messages
1,069
50 volt .. 20 Amp = 1000 watts

Any opinion on this one ? would it still need reduction using SRAM DD ?

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14427

12070-15-150-1.jpg


Something better ??
 
to see if there is any other motors in that range. Know of any ?

cyclone , BMC, or ??
 
The 1000 w range ?? .. that is not a big demand.
There are many RC motors that will give you 1000 w. .. EG : the Turnigy 80 -100, or the HTX 80-85, , CA 80-80 , etc
and most of the 63 series will easily meet the 1000 w if at a lower voltage.
... but what else do you need ? low KV ?,
.. are you specifically aiming at 50 v ?
 
Hillhater said:
The 1000 w range ?? .. that is not a big demand.
There are many RC motors that will give you 1000 w. .. EG : the Turnigy 80 -100, or the HTX 80-85, , CA 80-80 , etc
and most of the 63 series will easily meet the 1000 w if at a lower voltage.
... but what else do you need ? low KV ?,
.. are you specifically aiming at 50 v ?


Not much demand for a legal (1-1.5Kw) bicycle motor ???

yea .. low Kv (no reduction) ...direct drive chain and sprocket to 24" wheel with SRAM DD 3 speed

http://i324.photobucket.com/albums/k328/briangv99/100620101098.jpg

50 volt .. 48 nominal 20Ahr Headway Li pack
 
To be legal here the motor needs to be limited to 250 watts...............

Pretty much every country/state has it's own set of definitions for what constitutes a 'legal' ebike; there's not a big enough grouping at any power level to make specific motors for the job, with the possible exception of 200 to 250 watt motors, because a lot of countries (like the whole of Europe, for example) have pretty much settled on that sort of power level as a legal limit.

When it comes to making a decent brushless non-hub unit, then you really need to find a motor that's narrow enough to fit between normal pedal cranks (as that's probably the best location to drive through the cranks and bike gears). Kv isn't as big an issue as it might seem, because it's generally more efficient to spin a motor fast and put up with the extra mechanical losses than it is to use a big diameter low Kv motor that hogs current and gets hot.

Using a hub motor as a bottom bracket drive is one option, although 1000 watts implies a fairly big hub motor. Using a much smaller motor, like an Astro, is probably one of the best ways to do this, particularly with something like Matt's reduction drive that makes such a thing a plug-and-play job.

I can't see that using that big HK 8,000 watt motor makes much sense, particularly as its not yet really been proven to be a good motor.

Jeremy
 
jmygann said:
Not much demand for a legal (1-1.5Kw) bicycle motor ???
Legal *where* is the part not in your question. ;) Most places in the USA that specify a limit for electric make it 750W or less; Europe is generally 250W, and Australia was 200W last I heard, trying to up that to 250W or more.

Now, that said, some laws don't specify how powerful the motor itself *can* be, just how much power you can run thru it, and some don't say one way or the other but simply give a limit.
 
jmygann said:
Hillhater said:
The 1000 w range ?? .. that is not a big demand.
There are many RC motors that will give you 1000 w. .. EG : the Turnigy 80 -100, or the HTX 80-85, , CA 80-80 , etc
and most of the 63 series will easily meet the 1000 w if at a lower voltage.
... but what else do you need ? low KV ?,
.. are you specifically aiming at 50 v ?


Not much demand for a legal (1-1.5Kw) bicycle motor ???
50 volt .. 48 nominal 20Ahr Headway Li pack

No, i meant that 1000w is an easy requirement to meet .
Why so hung up an the 50 v pack ?
 
I have a 48 volt LIFEPO4 pack ... a 48 V solar system ...

California is 1000 watt

what other considerations do you have in mind for the 1000 watts ?

to me it looks like the cyclone , or BMC/MAC/Ecospeed/Powerpack, or RC with reduction

would like to do without reduction , similar to this ..

100620101098.jpg
 
Thats not "no reduction". Thats a "single stage reduction" setup. I think what your trying to imply is that you want to avoid 2 or more stages of reduction. I have a feeling what started confusion like this was Matt's RC drives. He sells "single stage reduction drives" and "dual stage reduction drives". The thing is, both of these require an extra chain stage to the rear wheel in the most common rear wheel driven setups. This final stage is amost universally another reduction stage, its just not effectively a complete part of the "drive unit" he sells.
 
Okay .. I'm looking for a 1-1.5Kw motor to drive a single broached freewheel on a SRAM DD in a 24" wheel .
 
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