Re: 5KW 72V Controller 36 #4410 FET's, $108 #4110's $154

[The Mighty Volt]

Can anyone tell me what the shipping time to the states was for one of these?

3 days to Ireland from China with DHL for two of my controllers.

Use anyone but DHL even if it cost some time. They're fine when the shipment goes smooth, but you're screwed when it doesn't. My first 3 controller shipment spent an extra 10 days in customs and racked up fees and taxes greater than the price of the controllers including shipping, all due to DHL's screwup. They admitted it and still would do nothing at all for me. Never ever again. Just another case of BIG screwing the little guy.

Someday I'll be 100% wind and solar. Water is easy here. I'll get a sailboat and go to China to pick stuff up in person if that's where the controllers, batts and motors still are. As long as I stay below the expat exclusion, I'll be able to exclude BIG from my life. If I get sick I'll just do a mind over matter thing and heal myself. BIG is ruining the world. Do business with the little guys when you can. DHL is the biggest so they're bottom of the list for me.

John

lol

I do have to agree. USPS from the USA and delivered by An Post, the State postal agency in Ireland,is and always has been, best for me. China Air is then always good for me too, because, again, it works via the Irish postal services.

The Brown have been OK, but.....its still DHL-Lite. Leo seemed to quote DHL from the get-go, maybe next time I will just go basic.

PS I'll be first-mate on your boat if you ever do sail to China

[flexy]

For anyone concerned about not being able to change 3 speed programming, Methods is selling these adjustable 3speed switches.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=41240

Edit; I just received mine , the speed switch connector is just two wire for a momentary switch to work in cycle mode.
Has anyone had theirs wired up for a switched mode 3speed switch, if so could you show where it is connected to the board so I could change mine

[flexy]

I have been examining the wiring in mine. One thing puzzles me - the throttle override wire for CA (green) is wired to the same pad as the ebrake input wire (white),



There should be a diode on the throttle override wire but there isn't.

Leo also said of the white ebrake input that "High level/E-ABS brake, connect it with one 12V or 48V or 60V or 72V... voltage"

The CA throttle override usually sits at 4-5V so does this mean the Ebrake input won't trigger the brake because it is always pulled down to 4-5V by the CA?

Also, couldn't voltages higher than 12V cause problems in the CA?

[John in CR]

That certainly doesn't seem like the right connection to me. The throttle override wire from the CA need to go to the same pad as the input from your throttle, and it needs a diode blocking flow from the CA. It draws down the throttle voltage, if I understand correctly.

With a name like "Throttle Override" I can understand how they misinterpreted that to be ebrake.

John

I have been examining the wiring in mine. One thing puzzles me - the throttle override wire for CA (green) is wired to the same pad as the ebrake input wire (white),



There should be a diode on the throttle override wire but there isn't.

Leo also said of the white ebrake input that "High level/E-ABS brake, connect it with one 12V or 48V or 60V or 72V... voltage"

The CA throttle override usually sits at 4-5V so does this mean the Ebrake input won't trigger the brake because it is always pulled down to 4-5V by the CA?

Also, couldn't voltages higher than 12V cause problems in the CA?

[John in CR]

Regarding High EABS, these are scooter controllers, so it expects a 12V signal from the the brake light system. Mine needed at least 8V. Leo talked about running pack voltage to that, but no way do I want to run pack voltage up to my handlebars and those cheap ebrake switches. If you want an ebrake cutout without regen activation, that wire still needs the high voltage (high as in not 5V), and you need to cut the long jumper wire on the board that activates regen. That's where you'd wire the regen switch if you wanted both, a power cut ebrake and separately activate regen while the power is cut.

John

[methods]

As far as I can tell he has been miss-populating these for some time now. Maybe 6 months back I got a message from a member showing that Leo had followed old instructions on the ebikes.ca site (a picture). I contacted Justin about it and asked him to take the old instructions down (he did). I then contacted Leo (just recently) and asked him if he was now populating correctly (i.e. diode to throttle line, not direct tap to ebrake line). He did not respond and I falsely assumed this meant that he was doing it right now.

The result of this wiring will be that the CA can only control in a binary way - either on or off. So the speed limit, current limit, LVC limit will all not work right. They will be on or off - jerky.

You need to pull that wire, run it through any diode (cathode black band toward the wire) and tap into the throttle line somewhere downstream of a 1K - 5K resistor (often easy to find on the PCB). This is the current limiting resistor for the throttle.

Anyway: My samples were paid for a week back and I expect to see them shipped soon. In parallel I have 30 kits coming from Keywin.

-methods

[flexy]

Thanks Methods, I have sent Leo an email pointing this out and a copy of the latest CA manual.
The nearest pad I could find was an unpopulated fet location this has a 9.8K resistance to the throttle line, I know on the infineon 18 fet Lyen connection method there is 2.8K between the diode and the throttle line.
If it is essential to have this resistance below 5K - could I directly wire a 2.8K resistor between the diode and the throttle wire, or does it have to be a shared one on the board?

[The Mighty Volt]

@methods: thanks for buying these controllers and thanks for the feedback which will eventually follow.

@flexy: I am opening up my 24 Mosfet tonight and will take photos to see if my controller mimics yours in its population/wiring.

Cheers.

[methods]

If it is essential to have this resistance below 5K - could I directly wire a 2.8K resistor between the diode and the throttle wire, or does it have to be a shared one on the board?

Yea - for a one off I would just solder in an axial resistor between the throttle and the controller - diode tap on the controller side of the resistor. Value is not that critical - but if you are in there measure the resistance from Throttle to Ground - this is the lower leg of a voltage divider you will be creating so choose a value that is an order of magnitude smaller than the lower leg if possible.

Ideally the lower leg would be like 50K and your inline would be something like 5K.... so that the drop does not affect the maximum achievable throttle voltage. I am sure 2K will do fine.

-methods

[gensem]

The result of this wiring will be that the CA can only control in a binary way - either on or off. So the speed limit, current limit, LVC limit will all not work right. They will be on or off - jerky.

I have a 18fet controller that probably has the same problem...

[methods]

Way back in the day the CA just had a digital output - then at some point he moved to an analog output but the old info hung around for years.

-methods

[The Mighty Volt]

Okay, I just around opening up my 12Mosfet 36v controller.



I see the green wire from the Cycle Analyst and the white E-brake wire terminated together at the same pad, and then a brown wire terminated via a diode into a pad that says E2.

Any ideas why this would be any different? What specific issue might there be here that we need to rectify???

Thanks.

[flexy]

That's must be his standard wiring, If it hasn't caused you any problems then don't worry. If you you use your CA to control peak current or any other setting that overrides the bike throttle, then it could act strange.

In my 36fet, that brown wire is the reverse switch, it is connected to ground to switch on reverse, mine has the diode too.

If we can get the correct CA worked out, I'm sure Leo will follow and send these out correctly wired.

[methods]

I have already brought it up with him twice. He speaks perfect English so it must be that he does not understand the situation. I think if anyone wants to tell him again they need to just make the change, take a picture, notate the picture, and send him that picture. I already linked him to the entire CA Manual where it is described ad nauseum and he still sent mine with the incorrect wiring.

-methods

[The Mighty Volt]

I have already brought it up with him twice. He speaks perfect English so it must be that he does not understand the situation. I think if anyone wants to tell him again they need to just make the change, take a picture, notate the picture, and send him that picture. I already linked him to the entire CA Manual where it is described ad nauseum and he still sent mine with the incorrect wiring.

-methods

I think he just speaks the English and that others are charged with the engineering and tech jobs.......once you get a guy telling a guy telling a guy, that's usually an invitation for a breakdown somewhere.

[methods]

That has been my experience. Any time I get a guy on the horn who speaks good English things just get worse. I would rather make smoke signals to Keywin than speak clearly to Sunny Chen over at 9C.

-methods

[The Mighty Volt]

That has been my experience. Any time I get a guy on the horn who speaks good English things just get worse. I would rather make smoke signals to Keywin than speak clearly to Sunny Chen over at 9C.

-methods

ROTFLMAO

You have an Irish sense of humour

[Gordo]

After my first few conversations with LEO at the beginning of this thread, I came to the same conclusion. He had to get back to me with many answers to questions I asked.

I think he just speaks the English and that others are charged with the engineering and tech jobs.......once you get a guy telling a guy telling a guy, that's usually an invitation for a breakdown somewhere.[/quote]