zombiess wrote:I always run my block time at 0.1S on all my controllers. I hex edited the software to allow this + mod several other settings. Old school hex editing skills come in handy
hjns wrote:zombiess wrote:I always run my block time at 0.1S on all my controllers. I hex edited the software to allow this + mod several other settings. Old school hex editing skills come in handy
Yes, you did describe that several times. However, do you think this is also necessary for the more mainstream "intermediate power" setups, like between 1.5kW and 5.0kW? Seems to me that 0.1s block time may be overkill, and >2.0s may be too long. However, this is only my gut feeling talking. I don't have the popped MOSFETs to prove it... yet.
Also, what else did you modifiy? Regen? Cruise control? Must be nice to cruise at 10kW....
hjns wrote:OK, so I destroyed my HT3525 when moving up a 15% hill at 50km/h (126V 55A). I knew it would break eventually, but it broke after 10 minutes going uphill, instead of after 2 minutes as indicated by the simulator (ebikes.ca). Now, I actually did NOT want to break the motor, but I could not help myself enjoying going uphill at that speed. It is just too much fun.
I will open the motor and try to diagnose what is wrong. Either halls are dead (most likely, because the motor reacted initially by behaving like when one of the hall wires is not connected well), or there is another short. We will see.
I tried to attach my 9C 2810 in front to get at least some motorized bike ready to go to work. I got it to work electronically, but when I inserted the motor into my other Fox front fork and tightened one of the bolts, I broke the dropouts. Again!! So, now I have proven that the Fox front forks (TALAS 32 and F100) have dropouts made of butter. Even with torque arms, they are NOT good for front motors.
I will try and learn how to weld. Then I will attach Docs super torque arms onto the fox front forks and we will see if that is better.
In the meantime I went to work pedalling. It is a commute of 16km, and it took me an hour. Not that bad, considering all the hills in between. Maybe I should do that more often... muscle-power rules now!!
hjns wrote:I have not had the time yet to open up my HT. In the meantime, I drive around on my front 9C 2810 at 126V 45A max (controller programmed). I do baby this hubbie, because I definitely do NOT want to destroy my last remaining motor. So average power going into it is around 1.3kW (10A). This still gives me a cruise speed of 50kmh (32mph). Topspeed at WOT is 60kmh (37mph). With the hills on my commute, I temporarily allow myself 20A (2.5kW), but according to the sim anything above 2.5kW will be converted right into heat. CA programmed to 25A max.
Last night I reprogrammed the Lyen controller and have now strong regen as soon as I brake left (rear brake). With my right brake (no e-brake) I activate the front brake. Front regen is awful, especially in the rain. I am constantly in fear of sliding under, and will remove the regen once I get home again.
With front wheel drive, if I give too much throttle, the wheel will slip. So I need to be gentle and can not accelerate as hard as I would like. You definitely need rear wheel drive for that. But for the moment it is not that bad.
Anyway, I need to find out what is wrong with my HT. And as soon as my money transfer has reached PayPal, I will order a Hubzilla from Vlad. 2WD with a Hubzilla (at 60%) on the rear and 9C in front should really take care of any heat issues when climbing mountains....
hjns wrote:I guess you guys will now advice me to get a 24 or 36 FET controller, right?
What about a Kelly?
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