29mm to 35mm to 50mm -> My evolution to the Cromotor

[Ypedal]

Doc's parts are solid steel.. not aluminum ! ( i got a pair.. going on m KMX tomorrow.. was going to use on chopper.. but kmx is priority right now )

When possible, i prefer to grind down the axle instead of the dropouts.. but they need to drop way in there so the nuts have a good clamp surface to keep things in place..... considering how much power this sucker is going to see.. i'd keep the axle material lol....

What we really need is a proper pinch type torque arm, not just relying on the flats.. but actually slotted with a nut and bolt at the end to grip the axle.. then add the nuts just for show.

[johnrobholmes]

The cromotor is certainly the best hubmotor made right now. I have been wanting one for myself but don't have the budget or the bike for it. Whats worse is that I have laced up 4 of them and have 2 more waiting for parts, so I get to fondle them but not use them


You are really going to have fun with em, can't wait to hear your experience in the saddle!

[neptronix]

The cromotor is certainly the best hubmotor made right now. I have been wanting one for myself but don't have the budget or the bike for it. Whats worse is that I have laced up 4 of them and have 2 more waiting for parts, so I get to fondle them but not use them

Gotta say, i actually feel bad for ya here

[Alan B]

Looking good, Patrick!

Here's mine, getting close:



Those are 12 gauge spokes with custom made washers in the stock holes in the Cromotor. This Cromotor is from the last batch.

[methods]

Doc's parts are solid steel.. not aluminum !

doh - I don't know why I would say aluminum. That makes no sense.

Whats worse is that I have laced up 4 of them and have 2 more waiting for parts, so I get to fondle them but not use them

[gensem]

Methods,

1.
Your bicycle dropouts are giving you a message... use body armor while testing!

2.
10 bucks that you ll never look back after playing with Hal´s hub motor.

[methods]

Methods,

1.
Your bicycle dropouts are giving you a message... use body armor while testing!

That is no joke friend... I have body armor and I dont even own a motorcycle! When I flew over the bars on my chopper bike I got hardly a scratch - only spot that hurt was my thigh where it got caught in the handlebars.

I know those drops look bad - but they actually dont hold the motor. There are steel plates that bolt on either side that completely surround the axle and hold it vertically and horizontally. Axle nuts are not even needed.

2.
10 bucks that you ll never look back after playing with Hal´s hub motor.

I have been on a long voyage for many years trying to find a motor that is all smiles and no frowns. I am 99% sure this one will be the ticket... and if it is not... I will just have to drill 1" holes in it spray.

I think it is going to be great - especially in 20" with 24S.

[neptronix]

I have a feeling that you will outgrow 24S rather quickly in that 20" wheel if high speeds are your bag.

I also have a feeling that someone is eventually going to need a 36FET with some of these to really max it out

https://ec.irf.com/v6/en/US/adirect/ir?cmd=catProductDetailFrame&productID=IRFB4127PBF

[gensem]

I have been on a long voyage for many years trying to find a motor that is all smiles and no frowns. I am 99% sure this one will be the ticket... and if it is not... I will just have to drill 1" holes in it spray.

I think it is going to be great - especially in 20" with 24S.

Im using 17" moped rims so you should get a bit more torque, but thats really not necessary the motor has alot of torque... I really wanted to have a higher kv cromotor, like 15kv with a bigger flux area and maybe even more cooper fill.

[methods]

Speed is actually not my thing... too scared of losing my skin
(I say that speaking literally)

Acceleration is my thing... so I don't think it will be long until I need a higher current limit. Should have never sold Doc by 220A kelly controller.

Speaking of controllers... where the hell do I buy one?
Fark... I need a controller like right now. I am tired of waiting for myself to produce them.
Someone please sell me a controller 18 fet, 24 fet, 36 fet... I dont really care... any of them will do.
I need a fix to hold me off until I can get a line going. All of my manufacturers are dragging their feet.

Those fets are nice but that 20mOhm rdson is a bit of a buzz kill for me. Even the 4115 puts me off - I have tried to incorporate it into a few of my designs and I always end up back with the IRFB4110 and sub 1mOhm rdson.

-methods

I have a feeling that you will outgrow 24S rather quickly in that 20" wheel if high speeds are your bag.

I also have a feeling that someone is eventually going to need a 36FET with some of these to really max it out

https://ec.irf.com/v6/en/US/adirect/ir?cmd=catProductDetailFrame&productID=IRFB4127PBF

[pwbset]

Doc has some torque arms for sale that look like they were machined from a block of steel the size of a space shuttle.

Ordered a pair of Doc's T-As last week and he mentioned they were the last pair of the run. Just an FYI that'll we'll need to pressure him to make another batch. I'm ashamed to say they'll be going on a measly little sub-3kw 9C setup.



PS - If you're looking for a home for that poor little violated front 9C 2812 you de-spoked let me know. I'll buy it off you when I get paid on the 8th.

[maydaverave]

Those rythym lites wont last one ride i bet. They lasted me about a week on my non powered bmx.

[methods]

Those rythym lites wont last one ride i bet. They lasted me about a week on my non powered bmx.

I hope that is the case. The fist thing I intend to do with this bike is lean over the bars and lay rubber all over the road out front of my shop.

No worries - I have at least 5 tires at my other shop. Just need to get over there....

-methods

[deVries]

Speaking of controllers... where the hell do I buy one?
Fark... I need a controller like right now. I am tired of waiting for myself to produce them.
Someone please sell me a controller 18 fet, 24 fet, 36 fet... I dont really care... any of them will do.
I need a fix to hold me off until I can get a line going. All of my manufacturers are dragging their feet.

Good to see you're back into the frock games & are on the hunt in other threads...

Methods, we missed you man, frock man.

[methods]

OK - I have secured a controller.

Have a look at these apples.......
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=39221



Farfle and Steveo goodies
100V
250A Battery current
400A Motor

That should be just enough to get my 20" Chinese rim to shatter break my body.

I am going to rework it a bit - I want to give it the real spit-shine treatment so it has that used car shine. When I am done I am going to ride it over to Liveforphysics crappy apartment and challenge him to an endurance race to Santa Cruz and back. While he is trying to actually get his pos non-frock running I will blast off down the road leaving him in a shower of gravel and cigarette butts.

-methods

[nicobie]

. When I am done I am going to ride it over to Liveforphysics crappy apartment and challenge him to an endurance race to Santa Cruz and back. While he is trying to actually get his pos non-frock running I will blast off down the road leaving him in a shower of gravel and cigarette butts.

-methods

Wish I could be there...

[methods]

Who could look at this and not think that it just oozes bad ass?

IMG_20120603_150140.jpg (144.59 KiB) Viewed 670 times

Ok - I was going to make some funnies.. but this is a serious issue.
A 20" wheel is the only way to roll for straight acceleration... BUT there are two major problems with that. First the damn pedals slap the ground and second it just looks horrible. Horrible. Horrible.

Normally I don't care about aesthetics but some times I have to look cool so I can sell more stuff.
What is a guy supposed to do?

That is about the stupidest looking bike I could ever imagine. Even though I know it is about to be 15hp it is just ugly ugly ugly.
Maybe I can drop the front wheel from 26" down to 20" and it wont be so bad.

I love me my rear suspension so dont even think about suggesting that I get a pink BMX bike.

-methods

[neptronix]

Methods, read to near the end of my peak power thread..
145mm sinz cranks, 2.75" tall pirelli tire in back, and 24 inch wheel in the front was absolute perfection.



( picture to the right is with a 24" wheel. )

Minus the giant 60t crank, you could actually get your bike looking decent this way, if it matters enough to you.

[Chalo]

Ok - I was going to make some funnies.. but this is a serious issue.
A 20" wheel is the only way to roll for straight acceleration... BUT there are two major problems with that. First the damn pedals slap the ground and second it just looks horrible. Horrible. Horrible.

I can't help you with the looks, but a longer shock would raise the rear ride height and get the pedals back up a bit.

It does look, umm... funny. Not in a good way.

Here is a bike I built for my wife years ago, that has a 20" wheel in back and a 26" wheel in front. I think it's pretty nice looking, though it wouldn't suit your project requirements.



Chalo

[johnrobholmes]

I have been a fan of a 17" rear with a 24" bicycle front, although the weight balance gets upset a bit. I would imagine a 17" rear and 19" front is good for a bit heavier but balanced setup.

[methods]

Thanks for the tips guys.

I have been sitting here trying to figure out if it is pride that is making me embarrassed by what the bike looks like. 99% of the time I dont care about stuff like that... in fact I often revel in looking "stupid". I think what is bothering me this time is the impression it will leave on people. Even if I accelerate at like 4G's all folks will think when they see it is

"ebikes sure look funny".

In a sense when I go out I want to change peoples minds. I am actively trying to change how people feel about ebikes. I want them to think they are bad ass and I want to crush the imagine that they are slow, heavy, awkward, pieces of shit.

I will try some different combos when I get back to my stash of wheels in the hills.

-methods

[liveforphysics]

20" front wheel. Longer shock end-to-end distance to raise the back to avoid pedal strikes. Strap the front fork down a few inches to take out a lot of the pogo-action and not make the 20" front seem so tiny.

[John in CR]

In a sense when I go out I want to change peoples minds. I am actively trying to change how people feel about ebikes. I want them to think they are bad ass and I want to crush the imagine that they are slow, heavy, awkward, pieces of shit.

+1 on giving people the right impression.

Your real problem with the 20" isn't the look. It's put your already too high and rearward CG even further rearward. Gotta extend that wheelbase to keep the front end down now that you have some respectable power.

Oh and a 20" doesn't have to look bad. Mine has a fat 20 in front that's just over 21", and the rear is just over 19". At well over 5" wide that rear tire is badass in person. Of course, I'm a bit prejudice. I haven't been able to get a good angle that captures the bike well though.

SuperV prettied up.JPG (54.7 KiB) Viewed 621 times

John

[methods]

I've actually got that same frame on my wife's bike. I see what you mean... makes sense.

Only problem I have with the long 20" bikes is they pretty much lose the off road capability. (at least the real lumpy stuff)
I guess that is the price to pay.

Is that your daughter or your wife?

-methods

[John in CR]

Daughter.

Yeah, my SuperV is definitely a street only machine. The off-road bikes are gonna be a Hanebrink type but with the hubbie in-wheel, and a mid-drive mountain bike with the hubbie 2/3rds the way up the swingarm. Both will have the 2 speed high efficiency motors I've been testing for 6 months, so mountain climbing ability along with speed, just not extreme power. I don't think the switching contacts will handle big current, but it's been rock solid at just over 6kw with fat me including up to a 30% grade with no heat issues despite still being sealed.

John