Gen2 Nissan Leaf inverter

trseven

1 µW
Joined
Nov 25, 2017
Messages
3
Location
Council Bluffs, Iowa
I'm attempting to use the stock gen2 Nissan Leaf inverter with a lebowski controller. I've seen Tomdb do this with a Chevy Volt inverter (my backup plan, I've seen them cheap used) I still have to build a control board but I'd like to share my findings on the free inverter that came attached to my Nissan Leaf motor. Bear with me as even with an electronics background, I'm struggling a bit to understand.

The cable that plugs into CN601 on the control board connects to the power stage in the last picture. Pin out is as follows one wire going to each driver input :
pin 1) WN
pin 2) WP
pin 3) VN
pin 4) VP
pin 5) UN
pin 6) UP
pin 7) blank
pin 8) ground?? see photo, goes to each of the 6 drivers

Each IGBT is connected by a row of pins on each driver, this row of pins is labeled CNWN and so on for each driver. I've seen each phase labeled as W, V, and U. I'm guessing the N is negative and the P is positive. The IGBT is one long unit under both the positive and negative drivers.

Connector CN101 at the control board supplies 12V and ground:
Pin 1 and 2: 12V
Pin 4 and 5: ground

Connector CN151 at the control board has the 2 current sensors, one on V and the other U. 4 wires from each current sensor. I haven't looked to much at these yet but wondering why there are 4 wires.

Then there is a connector CN501 with 12 wires that plugs into the far right of the first picture, all these are unknown.

So with the proper lebowski controller will this power stage work? I already have it, it bolts nicely to the motor, I'd like to use it. I like Arlo's controller build, not beyond me but looks like a lot of work and money that I could use elsewhere.

Thanks,
Gerry C
 

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trseven said:
Connector CN151 at the control board has the 2 current sensors, one on V and the other U. 4 wires from each current sensor. I haven't looked to much at these yet but wondering why there are 4 wires.

Look up "four wire measurement" techniques for the details (here on ES or elsewhere on teh web) but basically it makes readings more accurate/precise.
 
Thanks! I haven't discovered any info on the four wire measurement yet but I'll keep looking. One of the four on each sensor is tied to ground. It doesn't help that there is minimal info on the parts inside and the numbers that are there do not pull up any info on the parts.

Thanks again!
Gerry
 
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/direct-current/chpt-8/kelvin-resistance-measurement/
 
trseven said:
I haven't discovered any info on the four wire measurement yet but I'll keep looking.
A simple google of the phrase itself finds enough:
https://www.google.com/search?q=four+wire+measurement&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

It's possible the 4 wires are for something else, but it's most likely this.

It doesn't help that there is minimal info on the parts inside and the numbers that are there do not pull up any info on the parts.
They could have custom markings on teh parts, or custom-made parts.
 
Regarding the four wires for each current sensor.

Isn't it for Hall Effect current sensors, so they need supply voltage and then a measurement signal.

look at this pdf.

http://www.lem.com/docs/products/hass_50_600-s.pdf

Regards
/Per
 
Yes, those sensors look like hall effect sensors, not a shunt resistor.

What are the numbers on the sensor? Is there a manufacturer logo?
If there is no data available, it should be possible to trace out the connections and at least figure out which pins are the power and which one is the signal.
 
Thanks for all the good info! And thanks amberwolf for some search help! But they do look like Hall Effect current sensors. I took your example pm_dawn and followed the pinout from the pdf. It looks like it matches up. At least ground is on the sensor pin 3. I have 190K ohms between pin 2 and 3. Followed pin 4 back to the control card, checking resistance it looks like I'm charging a cap with the meter. Pin 1? Says its a reference? Output on pin 2. There isn't anything on the outside of the current sensors except for a barcode with 00059466 on one and 00059465 on the other. It does look like the cover snaps together so I could investigate further if I need to. I still need to get a pcb made for the lebowski controller, figure out a precharge circuit, then some testing!

Thanks again!
Gerry
 

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trseven said:
I still need to get a pcb made for the lebowski controller
There's a few of those available here on ES, if you poke around for lebowski pcb in the titles or first post of threads.


figure out a precharge circuit
,
Tehre's also a number of threads aobut various precharge circuits, incluidng electronic ones by Fechter and Methods. (possibly others I've missed).
 
Just found an awesome paper detailing the differences between the Gen1 (11-12 MY) and the Gen2 (13-17? MY)

http://saegtl.org/ev/data/uploads/ev-content/gtlev_tp_2014-01-1879.pdf
 
Nuts&Volts said:
Just found an awesome paper detailing the differences between the Gen1 (11-12 MY) and the Gen2 (13-17? MY)

http://saegtl.org/ev/data/uploads/ev-content/gtlev_tp_2014-01-1879.pdf

Link broken
 
https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2014-01-1879/

That link should work. You have to buy the paper or find another means to get ahold of it
 
Hi,

I came here searching for the pin header part numbers, no luck so far.
Anyway, I thought I would post some info I've discovered.
Besides PWM I found a signal for link voltage and possibly one for heatsink temp.
PWM is active low, driven by open collector outputs and common 5V.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFqhGHBDIxQ

Pin 8 - 5V, Pin 1-6 - Phase 1, 2, 3 Lowside, Highside (L1, H1, L2, H2, L3, H3).
12V on the 5-Pin Header red and pink UDC on 2-level header yellow
Current sensors: 5V on red and pink, GND on black and grey, I1, I2 on white and blue
 
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