BMC hub motor Ebike conversion kits from $400

[scriewy]

can any 1 tell me ilias paypal ?
thanks

[oatnet]

can any 1 tell me ilias paypal ?
thanks

PM him...

[scriewy]

i did something better, emailed him where he answers pretty fast, but he didnt get to it yet for what ever reason, and i must pay while i can b4 my account hits the limit till next salary.

he rarely checks PMs as mentioned in this thread.

[TPA]

he rarely checks PMs as mentioned in this thread.

Incorrect....He rarely checks this thread.

If you PM him, the board will send him a notice via email, which he checks more often.

[ebikes-sf]

Sorry for any delayed replies, I was busy figuring out how to improve V3 kit and it's finally available.

I gave up on trying to feed thicker phase wires through the axle and
followed general practice of running 10ga wirer from axle base to the controller (wires will be covered with spiral wire wrap), it works quite well:


Also moded 50A controller so that direct plugin Cycle Analyst can be connected to the controller and use its shunt to mesasure current and override throttle signal to limit current. I recommend setting current limit in CA to about 35A then increasing it to some reasonable level that depends on terrain and outside temperature. Without limiting current, even with thicker phase wires, running motor at full throttle is not safe. Remeber that motor is rated by manufacturer at 1000watts so at 50V that would be only 20A. In my opinion it shouldn't be run at over 1500-1600watts.


Here are the prices:

$815 for kit including:

V3 motor with upgraded phase wires wires (no rim or spokes)

50A BMC controller with CA mod Direct plugin Cycle Analyst calibrated to the controller

Throttle

Shipping is by USPS Priority:

Local pickup in SF $0

West coast $25

Midwest $35

East coast $40

Canada $60 (may vary depending on region)

Europe $80

Australia $90

New Zealand $100

Payment and fees:

Check - no fee

PayPal echeck - $5 fee. (PayPal echeck option shows PayPal account only if these two conditions are met: 1) checking account is linked to PayPal account, 2) there are no credit cards linked to PayPal account. Since fee for echeck is maximum $5, PayPal likes to hide it, so that payer is forced to use instant transfer and payee charged 3-4% of transfer amount.)

PayPal instant transfer - 3% fee

PayPal instant transfer from non US bank - 4% fee

PayPal ID and my email: ibrouk@hotmail.com

Note that V2 kits are still available, details on top of this thread.

For any questions, please feel free to email or call 415 595 6417

ilia

[auraslip]

Sorry I'm late, and this maybe a question that should be obvious but; what type of performance could I expect from this kit when limited to 35amps?

With 48v 20ah lifepo4 cells what would be full throttle speed on the flats?

What about 36v 20ah?

[Sacman]

This system does very good even limited to just 35 amps. The 50amp controller is kind of overkill but it's always nice to have that extra "headroom". I'm only running at 36v but I can easily maintain a top speed of 32mph on the flats with just 23 amps (that's roughly 800-900watts). It only peaks at 45 amps breifly when accelerating to that speed. And if you're running at 48v you could accelerate the same with even less current... plus... you would have a higher top speed of 40mph.

Sorry I'm late, and this maybe a question that should be obvious but; what type of performance could I expect from this kit when limited to 35amps?

With 48v 20ah lifepo4 cells what would be full throttle speed on the flats?

What about 36v 20ah?

[electrikiwi]

I just say that I bought one of these kits and not only is it the best deal for money that I could find anywhere on the net, but the service has been outstanding I live clear across the world in New Zealand and didn't really expect much illia has gone way above any kind of expectations with both communication and aftercare service. I cannot recommend him enough. If you want a kit that will tackle any hill that you throw at it like I did, then the torque version is the one for you.
Thanks again Ilia hope to have a picture up soon.

[NeezyDeezy]

Can people who have been using the new V3 motors elaborate on how much sound they make? The V2 are way too noisy for my purposes. I've found a 9C motor at low current high volts is the most silent (and what I used now), but I'm looking for a smaller hub for more stealth.

[ebikes-sf]

There is no significant difference in noise between V2 and V3, gears are exactly the same, just different wire gauge in windings and supposedly little stronger clutch on V3. BMC motors do emmit some noise at lower speeds but considered to be pretty quite by most users. Motors with high milage can get noisier.

[Sacman]

Can people who have been using the new V3 motors elaborate on how much sound they make? The V2 are way too noisy for my purposes. I've found a 9C motor at low current high volts is the most silent (and what I used now), but I'm looking for a smaller hub for more stealth.

The V3 and V2 are geared hubmotors, 9C is direct drive. You're always going to get a slight louder whirring sound from geared compared the relatively silent direct drive. I was like you once... favoring the silent stealthy Crystallyte direct drive hubmotors. But I accepted the slightly higher noise of the V3 geared motor because it gave me more benefits: smaller, lighter, more torque, can freewheel (no cogging or drag due to back emf).

I leaned I can still be stealthy with a geared motor. I just speed up and cut the power to the motor but keep pedaling as I sail right by others who'll never know I have an ebike.

[Whiplash]

So even the V3 is a geared motor EH? Sounds interesting... How would this motor do off road? Think it would shear the teeth @ 35A? How is the overall construction strength wise?

[Whiplash]

Also how is the lower speed performance? Could this be offered in a slower version for extreme torque?

[nicobie]

V2 and V3 motors don't seem to be having any trouble with the green gears failing. I think it is the one way clutch (sprag) that is giving all the trouble.

I still have one spare, but if it pops I am going to weld it up and do with out the free wheeling feature.

[Sacman]

So even the V3 is a geared motor EH? Sounds interesting... How would this motor do off road? Think it would shear the teeth @ 35A? How is the overall construction strength wise?
Also how is the lower speed performance? Could this be offered in a slower version for extreme torque?

The geared V3 definitely has more torque at lower speeds than any of the direct drive motors I've had. It seems to have just as much torque as my v2T (torque version) motor but using lower voltage. Last year I was climbing mountain fire roads that had long sustained steep grades of about 15-18%. I was using the V2T motor back then. It was doing well and I was able to keep an average climbing speed of about 8mph with moderate pedaling. The whirring noise of the gears is loudest at these lower speeds but then quickly tapers down once you get above 10mph. I did about 40 minutes of good solid mountain climbing. The gears sounded fine under load. Didn't sound like it might shear any teeth at all. My ride did end abruptly but not because of grinded gears but instead because I melted the stock phase wires. I was using a 50-amp controller which is really too much for this motor. 50-amps is fine for short bursts when certain situations demands that kind of power but you really shouldn't sustain that kind of high current thru these motors.

With regard to overall construction of these BMC V2 and V3 motors... I really haven't heard many problems with gears. Most problems I've heard seem to be related to the fact that the stock phase wires are too thin and should be upgraded/replaced to thicker wires. The V3 motor is more succeptable to melted phase wires than the V2 because (as Chandu Vanjani at BMC says) the V3 runs higher current. Also, you shouldn't need to run 50-amps thru these V3 motors like I was doing. 35-amps is more than enough to get great torque and speed out of these motors... and will ensure longevity. The solution that Ilia and others out here have done is to both: upgrade to thicker phase wires as well as to limit the current to 35 amps. It seems to be working pretty well.

[ebikes-sf]

Yep, that is also my experience using and dealing BMC motors. Clutch is the weakest point. Supposedly, V3 clutch is made of a better grade steel and I actually haven't heard of one failing on V3 so far. The only V3 issues I heard of so far is melted insulation on phase wires inside the axle - but that was caused by abusing motors running at over 1500Watts using BMC 50A controllers - I sell these controllers modified to accept DP Cycle Analyst with current limited to about 30-33A.

[Whiplash]

So it does have a failure prone design then? (To the other post above)..... But it seems like the newer clutch is holding up? Do you think the motor will handle the 18ish% grades you typically see off road for extended periods if you upgrade the wires at say 40A? I would be interested if so, as this is the closest thing to the Opti-Bike power train I have found that can be installed in a hub....Sounds good! Speaking of sound, do they sound like a toy motor or is the noise it makes more robust. Sounds like a stupid question, but I am researching a motor for a bike design to compete with the Opti Bike for MUCH less money out of pocket built on a smallish scale as in maybe a dozen or so bikes a year...Literally built out of my garage, TIG welded my yours truly!!

[ebikes-sf]

BMC motors don't handle abuse well. If not abused by overpowering, they will last for a long time. But of course gears and clutch eventually wear out - a price for high performance and low weight...

[Whiplash]

Understandable, When you say abuse, what about Off road use? Obviously I would not take it downhill racing, but nice spirited riding on a full suspension bike with close to 6" of travel F/R the occasional smaller jumps and such, think its good to go? Bike weight should be well under 70lbs with a recommended rider weight of about 175ish.. I will be using LiPo Exclusively and building and selling my own packs once I get the knowledge to do so.. but you just can't beat a 15AH battery that is the size of a CD case and cranks out 70+ volts! What is a good recommended Voltage for these motors if they are to be used in these types of conditions? Will it still at least do 30+ MPH for the guy having fun on his way to work?? Also if the clutch was the weak link, could it be bypassed as another poster said or would it not even roll when the motor is not in use??

[tycreek]

As a person that has picked a BMC hub for my uses ... I would not have picked it to jump with. To me, thinking about catching air and then the ground contact transition forces ... a geared hub doesn't seem like a logical choice?

I can attest that the V3 will do 30mph on 48v for rolling to work day in and day out ... even on STOCK wiring.

[Whiplash]

Nice, sounds like its a good choice, how does yours do on the hills and stuff? I understand I can't beat the thing up, but I would like to find a motor with a decent quality axle ans bearings so it can handle a bit of the rough stuff..

[aaronski]

Nice, sounds like its a good choice, how does yours do on the hills and stuff? I understand I can't beat the thing up, but I would like to find a motor with a decent quality axle ans bearings so it can handle a bit of the rough stuff..

I've taken my V2 up and down about 2000Ft of climbs and drops on fire roads. at about 20% grade(think can't pedal up it steep) and it's worked fine, I did cook a controller doing that though. I also took out the clutch in about 4 months on the v2, had it replaced and have been using the BMC controller with "slow start" enabled to go easy on the clutch, I think that's solved the issue. the trick with the BMC clutches appears to be not flicking on the power suddenly.

As for jumps... I"m not sure I'd recommend it for that, but rough trails it can handle just fine.

[Whiplash]

Sounds good, I am liking what I hear, this seems like a very viable option for my project!

[Whiplash]

Do I understand correctly that the V3 is as torquey down low as the V2?

[ebikes-sf]

With same input power V3 actually has slightly less torque than V2S, and V2T is the torquest. V3 has thickest coil wire which translates to less low speed torque more top top speed.